Flooded Autolite 1100???

Oakmckinley

New Member
Aug 19, 2011
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1
Minneapolis, MN
Okay, so my Autolite 1100 wasn't running that great, it ran but not that great. I removed it and cleaned it out well. The rebuild kit I got for it was a Walker, and some of the fittings weren't exactly the same ie: the float needle? was different shaped and the needle inlet was slightly different.
I figured hey things must have changed and installed the new pieces. Now it won't start and it flooded. :shrug:
I am not entirely sure I got the choke linkage back on correctly, the scematics were a bit hard to follow for the linkage with the microscopic text and pics. :eek:
Its on an 170cid I6.
Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"
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Oct 10, 2001
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After correcing the choke inkage and assuming you received the correct kit, I would first look for the needle and seat not installed correctly, the float level not correctly set, or dirt lodged in the needle valve.
 

Jetsetmantony

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Jul 3, 2011
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Oak, Real has some good suggestions. When I first rebuilt my Autolite 1100 on my 200 I6 I had a similar problem. The carb flooded. Fuel was spitting up out of the carb, LOL now, but not so funny back then. My problem turned out to be the cheapo paper "ruler" supplied with the kit. Probably expanded with all the dampness in the air, (Seattle) at the time. I bought a metal one, remeasured the float height, problem solved, done. Like Real said.. needle, seating, cleanliness, float are crucial.
 

Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"
Founding Member
Oct 10, 2001
2,310
40
99
Western Mass
Oak, Real has some good suggestions. When I first rebuilt my Autolite 1100 on my 200 I6 I had a similar problem. The carb flooded. Fuel was spitting up out of the carb, LOL now, but not so funny back then. My problem turned out to be the cheapo paper "ruler" supplied with the kit. Probably expanded with all the dampness in the air, (Seattle) at the time. I bought a metal one, remeasured the float height, problem solved, done. Like Real said.. needle, seating, cleanliness, float are crucial.
Boy do I miss Seattle! My 1984 GT came from the Ford Dealer who used to be just south of the Tacoma Mall.
 

Oakmckinley

New Member
Aug 19, 2011
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Minneapolis, MN
There was in fact a cheap paper ruler in the kit. I will double check the float with a better ruler.
How long should I let it "dry out" from flooding, it was really wet. When I turned the throttle linkage by hand, gas seeped out from that area. I read I should change the plugs as they are probably fouled, anything else to look out for?
Thanks
 

Jetsetmantony

New Member
Jul 3, 2011
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Pacific Northwest
Hi Oak,

I'm going to assume that you have had the air cleaner off for awhile and that there is no presence of "wet" fuel resting on the manifold/engine/anywhere. Not to alarm you, but its a good idea to have the proper and passed inspected fire extinguisher handy. You say there is fuel leakage at the carb linkage. Could you be really specific and rule out any gasket leaks, ensure all screws are tight, but not overtightened?

I don't have my old notes with me, so please verify if this sounds about right or way off: the float adjustment for your A 1100 should be 1 1/32" +/- 1/32". What point-to-point do your directions say to measure from? I thought it was from some point from the float to the top of the bowl the measurement was taken, then adjust the float accordingly. Also, is your fuel float the original, black solid looking one or a hollow brass/(copper) float, or an entirely new product that came with the new kit? Some of those old floats go bad, although because you're having flooding, it is more likely the float is to high or the needle/seating is off as suggested by Real's post. Also, make sure your slow/fast idle screws are at the "ballpark" suggested turns, so not overly lean or rich fuel mixtures. You'll adjust those when you fine tune the carb. FYI, if you have someone over to assist and they crank the engine over while your adjusting the carb at some point, if you get a carb fire, open flames, have them take the foot of the gas pedal and ONLY crank the engine. The vacuum will draw the fire down the carb throat and into the engine and the fire should go out. Once you finally check the float /mixture screws, etc., if you think the engine is still flooded, just crank the engine and keep the foot off the gas pedal, especially when you are smelling fuel. But be safe. Let us know what you find out.
 

Oakmckinley

New Member
Aug 19, 2011
9
0
1
Minneapolis, MN
Thanks, this is my first carb, I've had to work on. Yes I have the air cleaner assembly off and the choke "manual" is open.

The instructions did recommend 1 1/32", I turned the carb top half upside down and measured from the edge to the middle of the float top (bottom because I had it upside down), so essentially the float is resting on the needle in the closed position. I did notice that the float seems to be at an angle slightly, not level with the edge of the carb?
The float is brass in appearance, and I shook it and didn't hear any fluid inside so I think it is air tight. And it is freely moving on the pin.

I am going to check again for dirt in the needle inlet, when I use air to clean it out can I use a can of compressed air? I don't have an air compressor.

The whole reason I even did this job was due to the acclerator plate/lever leaking, it must have been overtightened and was warped really bad so I filed it flat and that was sucessful, and thought hey I'll just change all the old stuff while I am at it.

Thanks again for everyones help!:nice:
 

Jetsetmantony

New Member
Jul 3, 2011
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1
Pacific Northwest
Oak, that float has to be level in reference to the carb edge, not cockeyed. It's critical for the carb calibration of the float height and proper needle seating. Again, if I remember I did the same thing with the float, shake it, but it turned out it had a leak, even though I didn't hear anything. You could submerge it in water and look for tiny air bubbles being released. If it has a leak you have to replace it, if not, just dry it off clean, (no lint), and reuse it. Is there anyway you could scan the direction diagram(s) and post here with a good copy? As for the compressed air, I think it's okay, but someone else correct me if I'm wrong. Just make sure you wear proper eye protection and remove the ball checks or anything else that is fragile or loose. I've use canned air with wood chipper carbs, no problem, but they are much simpler.
 

Oakmckinley

New Member
Aug 19, 2011
9
0
1
Minneapolis, MN
Update:

Okay I did check the float again, and I tried to gently level the float against the float arm. While doing this it sort of popped, and turns out it was dented enough to cause it not to sit level. Well I remeasured it with a better ruler, so with that and re cleaning out the needle valve it finally started. :nice:

Now I just to make some minor adjustments because it will stall when going down to an idle. At least it's running again.

Thanks :D
 
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