flywheel resurfasing

ARP Flywheel Bolts - ARP-100-2801

Stock Replacement Flywheel - 397-M-6375-B302
(157 tooth/50oz balance) and it cost $100 bucks brand new.

I paid $25 bucks for my resurfacing at the local machine shop...but I would expect upwards of $40 or so.

The aluminum flywheel will help you decelerate quicker and accelerate a tick quicker if you want that little extra addition but some things to think about with the AFW is starting from a stop, particularly on hills, may require more slipping of the clutch to make up for the lower momentum than is stored in the heavier stock flywheel. Some jerking can be occured due to the loss of momentum possibly in between shifts for example as the rpm will drop sooner.

I would stay away from an aluminum flywheel on a daily driver and plus some of the harder grabbing clutches can tear up the aluminum flywheels...and aren't recommended with a aluminum flywheel.

Get a stock replacement or a nice billet steel one...(more expensive)...
 
IMO, going to a lighter flywheel won't do anything for you in a drag race. The extra inertia from a heavier flywheel means that on launch, you'll get more power to the ground than you would with an aluminum flywheel, and in drag racing power at the beginning of the track is worth more than power later on.

An aluminum flywheel may decrease driveline loss by a little, and that may be worth it to a road racer, but to drag racers I think it's better to leave 'em alone.
 
everynameistake said:
just wonder what it costs? is it worth going to al. flywheel. what do they cost i can get one for $289 off ebay new. any thoghts on this



Whoa, $289 for a flywheel. What kind of flywheel is that. Stick with the basics. I've had mine resurfaced for $25 at the local machine shop. I've also purchased one before from steeda for about $125 but that was years ago, but $289 geeeez. Just one man's opinion. Peace.
 
FastDriver said:
IMO, going to a lighter flywheel won't do anything for you in a drag race. The extra inertia from a heavier flywheel means that on launch, you'll get more power to the ground than you would with an aluminum flywheel, and in drag racing power at the beginning of the track is worth more than power later on.

An aluminum flywheel may decrease driveline loss by a little, and that may be worth it to a road racer, but to drag racers I think it's better to leave 'em alone.

yeah ive been auto Xing lately and plan on doing road race. but i dont think that ill go to an AFW. unless there is some really great deal out there
thanks for the help
 
BaXTeR3221 said:
I'm sure thats what he meant, aluminum flywheels make it more difficult on the street to shift and what not.

They do? I asked Joes95GT about that since he HAS ONE on his 95GT convertable. Heres what he had to say: "I like mine. The first thing I noticed was how easy it was to take off from stops. I didn't have to slip the clutch as much to get the car moving. The car revved up much smoother (in neutral, while driving easy, and beating the piss out of it)."

I think i'll be putting on on my street car.

If you guys haven't put an Alum flywheel on your car, why do you keep saying all these things about that it does/won't do if you never had one?
 
Grn92LX said:
They do? I asked Joes95GT about that since he HAS ONE on his 95GT convertable. Heres what he had to say: "I like mine. The first thing I noticed was how easy it was to take off from stops. I didn't have to slip the clutch as much to get the car moving. The car revved up much smoother (in neutral, while driving easy, and beating the piss out of it)."

Talk about a "needle in the haystack"...he was talking about that in the aluminum flywheel thread that got deleted during the server crash :bang: It had more people "dissing" the AFW than "owning up to it"...I know two people that had them that expressed the symptoms I mentioned. I wasn't just making it up.

Grn92LX said:
I think i'll be putting on on my street car.

I'd probably do it to but yours isn't your DAILY DRIVER...you don't have to deal with it to the extent we do...because you have another option (Saturn).

Grn92LX said:
If you guys haven't put an Alum flywheel on your car, why do you keep saying all these things about that it does/won't do if you never had one?
Already covered that one...you learn from the "best"...
 
No, I sent him a PM 2 nights ago asking his opinion about it since i know he uses one. Zero issues what-so-ever.

Putting the alum fly on my car wouldn't make it non daily driveable. The only reason my car isn't a daily driver is because I dont want to put the wear and tear on it everyday to work. Sometimes working on construction sites, you get filthy and I don't wanna ruin my car. I also work in New York City a lot and I simply won't leave it unattended in a sh itty area. Also for weather reasons (snow). The surging from the 30lb injetors was what drove me over the edge to buy a daily car.
 
Grn92LX said:
No, I sent him a PM 2 nights ago asking his opinion about it since i know he uses one. Zero issues what-so-ever.

I was saying he put that in the thread on the aluminum flywheels...

Grn92LX said:
Putting the alum fly on my car wouldn't make it non daily driveable. The only reason my car isn't a daily driver is because I dont want to put the wear and tear on it everyday to work. Sometimes working on construction sites, you get filthy and I don't wanna ruin my car. I also work in New York City a lot and I simply won't leave it unattended in a sh itty area. Also for weather reasons (snow). The surging from the 30lb injetors was what drove me over the edge to buy a daily car.

It doesn't really matter what drove you to buy a daily driver...but the fact is that it IS NOT your daily driver...

Wear and tear is part of a daily driver where you want nice components to help you "along the way"...

My 30lbers surge every now and then if I let it do a "idle crawl"...24lbers would have been a better choice...but my car runs good with them. 24mpg so something is right :shrug:

With the aluminum flywheel your losing half the weight of the stock cast iron one which is a huge difference in retrospect in how your car will have momentum if you know your car.

Some of the stronger grabbing clutches have been known to tear up the aluminum flywheels after a while in higher powered applications...so do what you want:shrug:

There is a difference between a "street car" and "daily driver" when it comes to giving a suggestion...
 
Much to the disappointment of many, I'm here! :D

We have all this talk about inertia this and inertia that....

Let me ask 3 questions....

1) What REAL WORLD experience do you have with aluminum flywheels? Hint: sitting behind a keyboard and reading other people's posts who spread hear-say doesn't count. ;)

2) I launch my car at 6500 RPM. Are you telling me the tires are going to hit as hard? Please try your best to explain. The clutch is either going to grab or it's not. It's an all or nothing proposition. Stored energy means next to nothing.

3) If aluminum flywheels are bad, why are they made, and why do many people use them? For those who sit behind keyboards, many Factory Stock, Pure Street and Real Street cars use them. Lets not even delve into the hundreds of NHRA classes where cars utilize them (successfully, might I add).

-----------------------

Before I broke the car, the switch to the aluminum flywheel allowed me to take off much easier. This is in a car that probably weighs 3550-3650 pounds. Call me a "needle in a haystack" or whatever else you'd like. I call it real world experience.

Joe
 
Joes95GT said:
Much to the disappointment of many, I'm here! :D

Oh the power of a PM;)

No one is dissapointed...were talking about daily drivers here? Is yours? :)

Joes95GT said:
We have all this talk about inertia this and inertia that....

Well...kind of.

Joes95GT said:
Let me ask 3 questions....

Fine by me...

Joes95GT said:
1) What REAL WORLD experience do you have with aluminum flywheels? Hint: sitting behind a keyboard and reading other people's posts who spread hear-say doesn't count. ;)

I already answered that...two of my buddies have these...(drag strip buddies:nice:)...So you don't spread any kind of word over the net from what you hear or notice? Is it wrong to inform someone of another's misfortion or possibilities...or is wrong to give pros and cons? That would be my question to you...

Joes95GT said:
2) I launch my car at 6500 RPM. Are you telling me the tires are going to hit as hard? Please try your best to explain. The clutch is either going to grab or it's not. It's an all or nothing proposition. Stored energy means next to nothing.

How many of us daily drivers put our tranny/rear thru a 6500rpm launch at the track? Having trouble? Actually a al. flywheel is a bit better because of the loss of inertia on your tranny...the centrifugal force of the iron flywheel is much greater (relatively speaking) when the clutch is disengaged and engaged compared to the AFW...which in turn provides a "sharper" hit...

Stored energy means next to nothing huh? Lol...I thought you knew better than that :nice: Your wrong...I hate to say this all the time here...but that defies physics...literally!

Joes95GT said:
3) If aluminum flywheels are bad, why are they made, and why do many people use them? For those who sit behind keyboards, many Factory Stock, Pure Street and Real Street cars use them. Lets not even delve into the hundreds of NHRA classes where cars utilize them (successfully, might I add).

Again this has already been discussed...it gets you down/around the track just a tick quicker...so are these factory stock, pure street, and real street cars not trying to get every little hundreth/tenth out of their times? Their goal is to run the fastest possible time within the ruled boundries...why wouldn't they use these little tricks...and how many pure and real street cars are their only sole transportation (daily driver type) and sit in stop and go traffic or routinely hit a sloped area (not the track) with those flywheels? Your comparing track cars to street cars...I don't think you read the thread very well... :shrug:

-----------------------

Joes95GT said:
Before I broke the car, the switch to the aluminum flywheel allowed me to take off much easier. This is in a car that probably weighs 3550-3650 pounds. Call me a "needle in a haystack" or whatever else you'd like. I call it real world experience.

Joe

Well...Ed and some others advise against that if I recall in those heavier cars...they preferred them on the lighter series cars...Paul confirmed this with several sets of professional people about his car (36-3700lbs)...

Real world huh? Not when your using track dementioned cars to REAL street cars...

Good Luck with your AFW.
 
The power of a PM, huh? You must not like arguing with me. ;)

Oh ok, let me get this right. "Your buddies" have one. Isn't it convenient how others always have these "friends" that "support" their arguement. Do your "drag strip buddies" drive their cars daily? Let me guess, you must have driven their cars, too? :rolleyes:

And, smartass, I drove my car daily when I put the aluminum flywheel in it for about 6 months. I got a new DD when I broke it.

Also, flywheels don't kill transmissions. Clutches do. I have NEVER in my existence heard of a flywheel killing a trans. I think I'm getting your point, but the way your wrote it is vague.

Lets proceed....

You know what I mean when I said stored energy "doesn't mean anything". Of course it means something, but as you put into parenthesis, it's relative, and in this case, quite meaningless.

The idea of street v. strip cars got ignored as I was typing. Sorry. To the best of my knowledge, Bob Cosby's old '99 Cobra had an AFW and his car was still street legal (full A/C and P/S to boot). Please don't quote this part of the thread. I know there is an arguement to this, and I know you'd love to bring it up to try and make me look bad. This was my train of thought as I typed that paragraph - please spare us.

----------------------------------------------------

I'm not too good at physics, but consider the following....

Spin a 40 pound weight off the end of the crankshaft at 800 RPM and try to grab it (i.e. taking off from a stop).

Next, spin a 15 pound weight off the end of the crankshaft at 800 RPM and try to grab it (i.e. taking off from a stop).

Which is going to be easier to grab?

Joe