1) You need the 87-93 struts.
2) You
really should use CC plates (use MM)! On a 4-eye with an sn95 brake setup, you end up with almost no camber.
Now that I know how bad the camber is without CC plates, I say it's stupid to quickly wear out a set of tires instead of putting on the CC plates right away.
And, IMHO,
any time you use CC plates, you
need to run an STB!
3) Also, I'd strongly suggest a bumpsteer kit (again MM).
4) Also, you'll need steering rack limiters. And, 235's are the easiest to fit. 245's get tight.
5 ) OH YEA..
***
For a 4-eye:.YOU MUST RELOCATED OR ADD BRACKETS FOR THE FRONT BRAKE HOSE!! ***
The rim
WILL RUB on the hose without added brackets or moving the mounting points. It's a great way to get kill and maybe kill innocent people! If you're doing for a company, it's a GREAT way to get sued out of business!
Yea, I should rotate that picture.
If you look at the center of the wheel well, right above the center of the spring, you'll notice two clamps for the brake hose. It's
very tricky to get the right position for the clamps to allow for the full turning of the wheel
and accounting for the fact that the wheel/FCA will fully extend at times. It's not impossible. But, it'll take a little time and maybe a couple of tries to get it correct.
Also, I use gas hose over my SS brake lines so I can gauge how much rubbing I get. Note: The clamp location depends on the particular SS brake hose, or the particular rubber brake hose. As I said, to prevent rubbing at full turn with the FCA at normal, fully compresses, and fully extended take a little effort.
Also, use
metal clamps and use some sort of rubber isolator. I used tie wraps to keep the rubber in place on my metal clamps.
Pics of my car:
Mustang 86 - Mach1 Springs
