FOGLIGHTS WORKED OVER :)

Getting the cluster isn't hard at all. Once you unlatch the switches, it's just a couple of screws to get it off. It'll be easier to work in there with it off...

That will be a good time to replace the dimmer switch too.
 
I also am curious as to how viable this is since many of you have done it. I absolutely love how it looks, but have heard horror stories of the harness overheating by itself, let along adding any power to the mess. Any insight as to how this will not damage will help me out as I also want to do this!
 
RUNINAGT said:
Whats wrong with the dimmer switch?? I missed that complaint. Mine seems to work fine.

There isn't anything wrong with that part... Mine is just worn out to the point of "spotty" functionallity. Meaning, if I hit a bump the dash lights can go out due to the bad dimmer. It's just on the list of things to fix ya know?
 
fiveohwblow said:
I also am curious as to how viable this is since many of you have done it. I absolutely love how it looks, but have heard horror stories of the harness overheating by itself, let along adding any power to the mess. Any insight as to how this will not damage will help me out as I also want to do this!


I thought this was a fix for the overheated light switch. I remember on a 1989GT that I had years ago, that I went through 2 headlight switches because they were burnt on the backside. I was tols then that it was because I used my foglights so much and they were drawing to much power. That was back in 1992 when I had that car, so weather it was true or not I dont know.
I sure hope I dont have any problems.
 
The reason that the light switch overheats, and eventually melts is because the fog lights draw too much current through the switch. From the factory, the fog lights draw their power through the headlight switch & the current is too high which causes the switch to overheat. Ford built a heat safety into the switch which is what causes the lights to shut off & flicker...it gets too hot, and just shuts everything off.

If you do the Corral fix, you're no longer drawing the power through the headlight switch. You're running a dedicated 12g power from the battery for the foglights. The fog light switch on the dash is now only used to simply open or close the relay. The relay is now, in effect, the fog light switch.

If you just follow the directions from the Corral, it's completely safe.
 
wht93gtEd said:
The reason that the light switch overheats, and eventually melts is because the fog lights draw too much current through the switch. From the factory, the fog lights draw their power through the headlight switch & the current is too high which causes the switch to overheat. Ford built a heat safety into the switch which is what causes the lights to shut off & flicker...it gets too hot, and just shuts everything off.

If you do the Corral fix, you're no longer drawing the power through the headlight switch. You're running a dedicated 12g power from the battery for the foglights. The fog light switch on the dash is now only used to simply open or close the relay. The relay is now, in effect, the fog light switch.

If you just follow the directions from the Corral, it's completely safe.
Thank you very much for that. I am going to do that then. I didnt get a chance to go to the Corral site and read it, so that is good info. I will do that now then! Sorry for the confusion I caused if I did...:nice: