Ford Sqeek! Upper control arm

dgw8022

New Member
May 3, 2006
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Someone told me that you can buy a new upper control arm that actually uses bushings instead of metal to metal like the original upper control arm.

Does anyone know of a vendor that sells that product?
 
Someone told me that you can buy a new upper control arm that actually uses bushings instead of metal to metal like the original upper control arm.

Does anyone know of a vendor that sells that product?

DSCF1889.JPG


We sell one that has a roller bearing shaft kit but they are overkill for a street car.

The best thing I have found to do is take the shaft kit apart, de-burr and pre-lube it. Put it back in the arm and make sure the shaft kit is centered in the arm, tighten the nuts down till they stop and back them off 1/4 turn or so till the shaft kit can be moved by hand, then weld the nut in place or weld a tab on to keep the nuts from moving.

upperarmstreet-300.jpg


This is what we do to our street upper arms. They don't squeek.


John
 
Someone told me that you can buy a new upper control arm that actually uses bushings instead of metal to metal like the original upper control arm.

Does anyone know of a vendor that sells that product?

Moog makes a "problem solver" bushing and shaft kit that replace the metal bushings with a rubber bushing, it is really designed for control arms that have the threads for the metal bushing stripped out. this was made back in the late 80's when there weren't any replacement control arms being made. i'm pretty sure they just adapted their replacement bushing kit for the granada control arms to the early mustang arms and sold it as a kit.

the stock metal bushings work much better than rubber and don't allow the control arm to move around which would result in caster and camber changes, IMO either replace the control arms with stock replacements with stock "blueprinted" bushings or use an aftermarket arm like Opentrackers or global west with a delrin bushing if you really want to get rid of the stock style metal bushing
 
I agree that the stock set up is better than rubber bushings. To get the grease where it needs to go to keep them from squeeking, I put a pry bar under the nut I'm greasing and push up while the grease is going in (might need two people, I use a gizmo I made up). That will open a space at the top of the shaft kit and the grease will go over the top of the shaft kit rather than under it like it does when under load. It works very well on worn arms.



John
 
i thought about mentioning your arms john, but at what $700 per pair, they are too expensive for the average person.

I agree. The ones in the photo are $550pr. We call them drag racing roller arms. They are a stock type arm with no bracing or ball joint change, just the roller bearing shaft kit. The drag racers love 'em. We have sold a lot of full roller front ends to the NHRA crowd.
 
Hello everyone, I am Marlon, Owner & Operator of Marlo's Frame & Alignment/Fly-Ford Racing, http://www.Fly-Ford.com I have upper control arms available that do not use Bearings Or Threads, and My Coil Spring Perches are made the same way, The car will drive like silk, because the suspension has Very Limited Friction, With NO Bind, I make these arms here at my shop, None of it is from china or some other 3rd world country which you cannot pronounce, LOL.
By The Way, My lower control arms are complete with polyurethane bushings, and both upper and lower arms come with polyurethane ball joint boots, And NO They Do Not Squeak!

The Same Control Arm & Spring Saddle Perch is Great addtion for Street Driving, 1/4 Mile Drag Racing and Road Racing as well.

Note: I have my 1966 Mustang with this same system as well as my 1969 Ford Ranchero.

My Mustang has 620lb 1" drop springs, 1 1/8" front Sway Bar, KYB Heavy Duty Gas Shocks, Global West Sub-Frame Connectors, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3/4" rear Sway Bar, Traction Master Bars, KYB Heavy Duty Gas Shocks.
308CID, with AFR 185 Heads ( 2.02 intake valves ) Comp Roller Cam 2.84 Duration / 5.36 Lift / 110 Lobe Center,
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake, 750 HP Series Carb, World Class T-5 Trans, 3.70 Posi 9" Rear-End
Front: 17" X 8" Chrome Bullitt Wheels with 225/45 Tires, Rear: 17" X 9" Bullitt Wheels with 275/40 Tires.
Baer 13" Front Brakes, and 12" Rear Brakes
Click Link Below to veiw pics, My description of the car needs to be updated, and it sits about 1/2" lower now
http://www.allmustangandfordclub.com/MembersRide-MarlonMitchell.html

The Ranchero has the same Suspension, except it has a 351W AFR 185 Heads & Automatic AOD Trans, and it has
Front: 17" X 9" Cobra "R" Wheels with 255/40 Tires, Rear: 17" X 10 1/2" Cobra "R" Wheels with 315/35 Tires
Wilwood 13" Front & Rear Brake System

There is an article all about them in the October 2007 Issue of "Mustang Monthly"
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