Fox "Outer" Tie Rod Ends

Not to thread jack, but how can you tell if your inner or outer tie rods are busted? My passenger wheel has quite a bit of play.

lang williams said:

Are there more threads on the moog? I'm using 99+ front lower control arms an I'm afraid i'm gonna run out of threads. I might go the the u pull it an grab the inner an outers off a 99+ car.

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I just went through this. If you use 99-04 Control arms, you must use 99-04 outer tie rods. Because you are using the 99-04 inners, you MUST use the 99-04 outers!!! (94-98 will also work and be the same threads)

Fox outers will not thread onto SN inners.

SN outers will not thread onto fox inners.

Both the SN and the FOX inners will thread to the rack itself though.

So you must buy everything from the same year.

I used FOX LCA's so I used fox inner and outers.

SVT32VDOHC said:

Originally Posted by lang williams View Post
Are there more threads on the moog? I'm using 99+ front lower control arms an I'm afraid i'm gonna run out of threads. I might go the the u pull it an grab the inner an outers off a 99+ car.

Click to expand...

I just went through this. If you use 99-04 Control arms, you must use 99-04 outer tie rods. Because you are using the 99-04 inners, you MUST use the 99-04 outers!!! (94-98 will also work and be the same threads)

Click to expand...

Not really, read what I posted. Also, the correct way is to use the MM bumpsteer kit for Foxes with sn95 FCAs. Otherwise, you get too much bumpsteer with the sn95 FCAs on Foxes. I had sn95 FCAs on my car for a while, so I know what I'm talking about.

FWIW: Putting sn95 FCAs on a non-CT/OT car is, IMHO, foolish! You're asking for a lot of problems/issues! If you don't have a 92/93, plan on a good deal of fender work unless you want to run skinny POS tires. Even with a 92/93, you get into clearance issues.

The FRPP Fox FCAs are just as good (new low friction ball joints, firmer bushings) and you don't push the tires out by ~1.25". Also, you get into strut selection issues with sn95 FCAs on Foxes. You MUST use sn95 struts for a non-lowered Fox Stang with sn95 FCAs. For a lowered Stang, it depends. But, having sn95 FCAs on a lowered Fox means "fun time city" with ALL of the front tire clearances. Again, for an OT/CT car, the wider track is worth the fender mods and other mods. For a street/strip car, I don't see it making sense.

My main point was that you need matching year inners/outers because of the thread difference.

When I put the 94-95 spindles on my fox, I turned the tie rods out 17-18 times to get them to reach the spindle. That was with stock Fox arms. I still think that using 94-04 arms on a fox would require you to use 99-04 inners. I barely had any threads left with the fox inners and fox arms, so using the 94-04 arms would force you to turn the tie rods out even more.

i got a

i got the kit from upr when i got my upr kit andi got the ones that u can adjust with washers i still have the ones that came with my stering rack i can see if they are the ones u need

tie rods

i found the twoi had they are 6 in long they are from flaming river not ure if this are the ones u need

SVT32VDOHC said:

My main point was that you need matching year inners/outers because of the thread difference.

Click to expand...

And, my main point is that you're not *reading and understanding* what I wrote. If you only put on the sn95 inners and outers (no bumpsteer kit at all), then you still have BAD bumpsteer with the sn95 FCAs on a Fox. So, then, WHY would anyone ever want to do that? Oh wait, I know why - to get the ricer-look of having the tires past the fender - that's why. Oh yea, and true to ricer-form, they decrease the handling/performance of the car.


MM Adjustable Tie Rod End Kit, 1979-93, with SN95 control arms and a FOX steering rack, bolt-through style spindle.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/i..._page=product_info&cPath=3_13&products_id=452

This kit has longer sleeves to accommodate the longer arm length if increasing the track width by using later model control arms. The sleeves in our other kits aren't long enough to allow sufficient thread engagement.

Bumpsteer is a term for the situation where the front toe changes as the suspension moves up and down. If the toe changes more than a very small amount it will cause the car to change direction, making the car unstable and unpredictable. MM offers two types of Adjustable Tie-Rod Ends. The tapered stud type can be used to make moderate changes to the geometry. It is best suited for use with a stock K-member, and does not require any modification to the spindle. The bolt-through spindle type has a much wider range of adjustment. It is required for most situations when installing a MM K-Member and requires drilling out the tapered hole in the spindle to accept a 5/8" bolt.

The installation of any adjustable tie-rod end requires that your car be measured for bumpsteer. This can be done by following our copyrighted step-by-step instructions. Look at our MMT-4 Bumpsteer kit for all that you need to be able to measure and adjust the bumpsteer on your car.



MM Adjustable Tie Rod End Kit, 1979-93, bolt-through style spindle.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/i..._page=product_info&cPath=3_13&products_id=448

Bumpsteer is a term for the situation where the front toe changes as the suspension moves up and down. If the toe changes more than a very small amount it will cause the car to change direction, making the car unstable and unpredictable. MM offers two types of Adjustable Tie-Rod Ends. The tapered stud type can be used to make moderate changes to the geometry. It is best suited for use with a stock K-member, and does not require any modification to the spindle. The bolt-through spindle type has a much wider range of adjustment. It is required for most situations when installing a MM K-Member and requires drilling out the tapered hole in the spindle to accept a 5/8" bolt.

The installation of any adjustable tie-rod end requires that your car be measured for bumpsteer. This can be done by following our copyrighted step-by-step instructions. Look at our MMT-4 Bumpsteer kit for all that you need to be able to measure and adjust the bumpsteer on your car.



Yes, I know that people put on the POS B springs and *say* that everything is "fine". But, as I said many times, they are full of it. The same is true for people putting on sn95 FCAs without a bumpsteer kit. Yea, the car "runs", but they have BAD bumpsteer. So, they do NOT have "better" handling. Same is true for the B-springs. They lower the car way too much. B springs do NOT give better handling - no way, no how - PERIOD!

Both are similar to the ricer mod of adjusting the TPS to 0.99v and going around saying how their car idles great, they now have 1.87 GA-ZILLION HP, and they've been using the same thimble of gas for the past 1,678 years. Honestly, to people that have a clue, they just laugh.


If people want to do what *I* call "ricer mods", go ahead, it's their car. *I* care about making sure people know the *truth* about mods. Most people do NOT want to do mods that hurt handling/performance, or will have many people laughing at them behind their back (and sometimes right in front of them). If people choose to listen to a teenager instead of a Principal Engineer, that's their choice. I just give people the info. People then choose what to do with it as they wish.

I've wasted way too much time on this topic already. Read what I wrote, or ignore it. To each their own.

Steeda has the longer ones to correct bumpsteer.