I currently am doing work on a friends car and he needs the a pillars done. Anyone done this before? Can I replace them without getting close to windshield? Anything I should be careful with?
Foxbody a pillar
- Thread starter Creomod
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You mean the body/roof sheet metal of the A pillar or the plastic trim on the inside? Any pics of the damage to see what you might run into?
- Mar 2, 2015
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That panel needs to come off that runs from a pillar to the front of steit tower. The inside of that panel by the a pillar is above the dash. Inspect inside the cowl as much as possible. The area i think you're talking about is actually above where the factory computer goes. Cover the windshield with cardboard. Grinding sparks will mess it up....so will welding sparks.
My experience tells me that theres a whole lot more rust in that car. You will have to atleast pull the windshiels trim to check for rust below the windshield.
I condemn a car that has more than 3 major rust issues. I see three in your picture. Strut towers, door hinge mounting sheet metal, and that hole up by the side of the cowl. I can almost guarantee the floors are shot and the rear control arm mounting points have issues as well. He could find another shell for way cheaper than me fixing all that stuff. Those issues can easy spiral to over 10k worth of work to do right.....and it still would have no engine in it.
My experience tells me that theres a whole lot more rust in that car. You will have to atleast pull the windshiels trim to check for rust below the windshield.
I condemn a car that has more than 3 major rust issues. I see three in your picture. Strut towers, door hinge mounting sheet metal, and that hole up by the side of the cowl. I can almost guarantee the floors are shot and the rear control arm mounting points have issues as well. He could find another shell for way cheaper than me fixing all that stuff. Those issues can easy spiral to over 10k worth of work to do right.....and it still would have no engine in it.
I agree, if it's that bad in that one spot there's more hiding. My car had way more rust than I knew about...
I agree, but the customer paid 20k for the car and he spoke to neomustang & he said he would try and save the car. I already did the strut tower. It was bad and yes I’m talking about the small peice that holds the door to the body (last pic is what I’m talking about ) any way to cut that out without removing the windshield?
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Hmmm, not sure if that can be replaced as a whole piece without removing the windshield, @95steedamustang might know though.
- Jul 12, 2017
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Getting the windshield out is easy. I’d probably pull the dash because of the welding involved
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Wow ! Thats a lot for a car in that condition. People want what they want though
Strut towers look good now.
Ok sorry it took a couple days but I took some pics up close of both side . What do you think is it a real pain? I don’t mind doing it just need an idea how deep I’m gonna get in it and is it less difficult then the front frame rails I swapped?Wow ! Thats a lot for a car in that condition. People want what they want though
Strut towers look good now.
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Looking at the rust hole on the passenger frame above the hinges, given how close the hole is to the glass, I would remove the windshield to make sure I could make a proper repair of the metal there. Depending on what is below it, you may or may not need to remove the dash ( I know I myself would shield or protect it sufficiently if I could to not remove it).
The rust spot below the hinges closest to the wheel looks like a rust hole my son's car has too. That area goes into the torque box area on that side. I found this when working on the floor pan/toe board/torque box on the passenger side of his car. I still have to complete the repair in that area but I have a plan.
The rust spot below the hinges closest to the wheel looks like a rust hole my son's car has too. That area goes into the torque box area on that side. I found this when working on the floor pan/toe board/torque box on the passenger side of his car. I still have to complete the repair in that area but I have a plan.
This whole thread is aching to have a little camera buddy follow you around while you figure this all out and [do] it.
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Yup...like others said. The windshield should be pulled for that repair. That area is what holds the front end to the back of the car and is very important structurally.
There are a couple guys that have successfully done that repair here though. I've repaired way worse in other types of vehicles.
I'd take a scope camera and see how bad that rust travels inside that corner. If there is alot of good metal I'd cut all the rust out, patch in good metal, and treat inside. That angular reinforcement that goes from there to the strut tower should come off too. Harbor Freight sells spot weld cutters...or you could drill them out. I like spot weld cutters when I plan on re-welding the same panel back on. Makes it easier to line back up. Don't have to worry about trying to plug weld it.
An inspection camera really helps figure out how deep you need to go. If no major rust is eating up inside those pillars you may get away with just pulling the windshield and patching from outside. Very hard to protct the harness in that corner withought pulling it through the firewall. Its a PITA.
Windshields are cheap and installers will come to you. To remove the windshield just go around it with one of these from inside. Some soapy water helps keep it from getting sticky. Take a grinder and round off the corners a little so they don't dig in the metal or glass. Take your time and the glass might not crack. These are available at HD and Lowes...different brand...more money...but work the same.
There are a couple guys that have successfully done that repair here though. I've repaired way worse in other types of vehicles.
I'd take a scope camera and see how bad that rust travels inside that corner. If there is alot of good metal I'd cut all the rust out, patch in good metal, and treat inside. That angular reinforcement that goes from there to the strut tower should come off too. Harbor Freight sells spot weld cutters...or you could drill them out. I like spot weld cutters when I plan on re-welding the same panel back on. Makes it easier to line back up. Don't have to worry about trying to plug weld it.
An inspection camera really helps figure out how deep you need to go. If no major rust is eating up inside those pillars you may get away with just pulling the windshield and patching from outside. Very hard to protct the harness in that corner withought pulling it through the firewall. Its a PITA.
Windshields are cheap and installers will come to you. To remove the windshield just go around it with one of these from inside. Some soapy water helps keep it from getting sticky. Take a grinder and round off the corners a little so they don't dig in the metal or glass. Take your time and the glass might not crack. These are available at HD and Lowes...different brand...more money...but work the same.
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