frame questions. It is bent?

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Doomedfailure

Member

Jul 1, 2009

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Jul 6, 2011

#1

• Jul 6, 2011

• #1

They informed me the toe in the rear is L.23 and R-.21 degrees they said it was because my frame is torqued. Do i have someone try to straighten this out or is it so small it isnt a big deal? And being a unibody little hesitant on having them mess with it. they said they could at my local frame shop though. My car has never been wrecked.

 

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Doomedfailure

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Jul 1, 2009

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Jul 8, 2011

#2

• Jul 8, 2011

• #2

someone has got to have some input

 

alscobra1

New Member

Jun 20, 2011

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louisiana

Jul 8, 2011

#3

• Jul 8, 2011

• #3

So your rear end is a little crooked. What year stang is it? You may be able to just loosen the trailing arms at the rear end and frame and try and slide it some. The torque boxes will give after some time also. You may be able to cheat it some without a frame pull. I would check the mounting bolts and the holes and bushings on the trailing arms for sure. If one of the bolts is a little loose, it can wear the bolt or the hole out. Hope this helps some.

 

alscobra1

New Member

Jun 20, 2011

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louisiana

Jul 8, 2011

#4

• Jul 8, 2011

• #4

Also, i believe that there are adjustable lower arms that can take care of that also.

 

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Doomedfailure

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Jul 1, 2009

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Jul 8, 2011

#5

• Jul 8, 2011

• #5

it is a 1996 GT. I have no idea what i can do to straighten it out, was under the impression there was nothing you could do to adjust it.

 

alscobra1

New Member

Jun 20, 2011

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louisiana

Jul 9, 2011

#6

• Jul 9, 2011

• #6

What you have is a solid rear end turned to the left a bit. Causing it to dog walk some. I believe that your right rear wheel is a little more forward than the left. Easiest way I believe it to replace the lower arms that connect from your rear end to the torque boxes with adjustable ones. Or just get a frame shop to do a little pull on it but the torque boxes are known for splitting. I'll check and see if I can find a set of arms.

 

alscobra1

New Member

Jun 20, 2011

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louisiana

Jul 9, 2011

#7

• Jul 9, 2011

• #7

Alright. There are adjustable upper arms that might get you there but not sure. The trick is gonna be to loosen everything else and adjust it on the alignment rack. And hope for enough adjustment. $200 from American muscle. There are adjustable lower arms but they require coilover kits because they don't support the springs. Just depends what route you want to go to try and straighten it out. Frame pull might be the easiest way.

 

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Doomedfailure

Member

Jul 1, 2009

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6

Jul 9, 2011

#8

• Jul 9, 2011

• #8

yea i will prolly just have them pull the frame, but you say the torque boxes are known for splitting? I dont even know what that is or that my car had them. I will have it pulled before i put in the sub frame connectors. I didnt know if it was out of alignment enough to be concerned about.

 

nyuk98gt

15 Year Member

Oct 10, 2000

1,427

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79

Chesterfield, MO

Jul 9, 2011

#9

• Jul 9, 2011

• #9

Doomedfailure:

The torque boxes are where the upper control arms connect to the frame. They can crack if subjected to a lot of hard launches (since the differential is twisting during acceleration).

You have a few choices: check the upper control arm bushings as they may be worn out, or, you can have the frame adjusted, or, you can install adjustable upper control arms. If the bushings are still in good condition and the torque boxes are not spread or cracked, I suggest adjustable upper control arms over tweaking the frame. The adjustable UCA's allow for easy future alignment of the rear and proper setting of the pinion angle if you lower the car.

A Haynes manual is only 20 bucks at AutoZone or Border or your local bookstore and well worth it, imho. It has tons of good info and photos and is an excellent reference for us weekend wrenchers.

Chris

 

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Doomedfailure

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Jul 1, 2009

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Jul 11, 2011

#10

• Jul 11, 2011

• #10

I bought the actualy 1996 ford manual. It has everything I do believe i have the haynes as well but it did not have enough info when i swapped the motors.