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front alignment/scrub issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter TurboJoeD.
  • Start date Start date Mar 25, 2008
T

TurboJoeD.

New Member
Nov 8, 2007
33
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0
Mar 25, 2008
#1
  • Mar 25, 2008
  • #1
I just got my car together and have driven it to work the last two days. It has all of the original four cylinder suspension and brakes still on it. I put 93 cobra replica wheels on it. According to the manufacturer, they are 8.5 inches wide and I have a 245 mounted on there. The passenger side it very very close to the strut but doesn't rub, but the drivers side does--mostly when I make a left turn the very edge on the rim rubs on the strut but isn't touching the tire. I had an alignment hoping that would fix the problem and it didn't. I changed the outer wheel bearing because it had just a little play--that didn't fix the problem either.
It looks like that wheel has a bit of negative camber. I don't even think caster/camber plates will work because they move the angle of the shock, but not the proximity of it to the wheel.
I really don't know what to do here. I don't think these wheels should rub and I don't want to use a spacer, nor do I think I could find a 1/8in. or smaller space, so I would have to make one.
I do plan to get rid of the 4cyl. brakes and suspension for bigger better lower stuff, but not just yet. Maybe that is what is causing my problem but I really want to drive it the way it is for awhile.
I was hoping one of you guys might have an idea.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Mar 26, 2008
#2
  • Mar 26, 2008
  • #2
If this occurs at near lock, some rack limiters might help.

Good luck.
 
T

TurboJoeD.

New Member
Nov 8, 2007
33
0
0
Mar 26, 2008
#3
  • Mar 26, 2008
  • #3
It isn't really at or near full lock. It isn't very consistent. It happens at gradual lefts and hard lefts. I seem to notice it most when I brake and turn going around a corner--not hard or anything--just driving. Besides, I do have steering limiters in there.
 
T

TurboJoeD.

New Member
Nov 8, 2007
33
0
0
Mar 26, 2008
#4
  • Mar 26, 2008
  • #4
any other suggestions?
 
L

lang williams

New Member
Jun 11, 2003
567
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0
cleveland, oh
Mar 27, 2008
#5
  • Mar 27, 2008
  • #5
would it be dangerous to put 2 grade 8 washers on each stud to see if that gives you enough clearance?
 
T

TurboJoeD.

New Member
Nov 8, 2007
33
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Mar 31, 2008
#6
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #6
oops
 
T

TurboJoeD.

New Member
Nov 8, 2007
33
0
0
Mar 31, 2008
#7
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #7
I didn't even think to try that--I wouldn't have any problem with it. What I ended up doing was I took it back to the alignment shop and had them slot the holes in the strut mount and move the spindle over about two millimeters to get the camber right.

The more I looked at it I realized that the 5.0 in there with all the 4 cylinder suspension and everything made the front end "sag" and the way the suspension travels--it tilted the camber in on top. I think v8 suspension would fix the problem. Since I want to lower the car and stiffen it later on (I'm not quite ready to spend the money on that just yet) so, I just went for this cheaper less permanent alternative.

I should take it back and have the other side done too
The drivers side is now at 0 degrees camber
The passenger side is at -5 degrees camber

These numbers look acceptable to me, but what should they be at?
 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet
Sep 17, 2005
2,867
3
58
Port Elgin, Ontario
Mar 31, 2008
#8
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #8
half a deg is a fair bit..... IMO. I would want the camber as close as possible if not the same on both sides. when I do alignments I like to see them within 0.05 degree.
 
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