Front control arm bushing replacement?

K

Kerpal

New Member

Aug 9, 2004

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Dec 30, 2005

#1

• Dec 30, 2005

• #1

So I've had these ES front control arm bushings sitting here for a couple months and I want to finally get the job over with and get them installed... can someone tell me what's involved with replacing them, and what tools I'll need?

First of all, is there even any chance of getting the control arm bolts loose without air tools?

Secondly, is there a way I can remove/install the bushings at home, without a big shop press?

I'm still on stock springs... is that going to make it a huge PITA to get everything back together? I don't enjoy dealing with spring compressors... Would it save me a lot of trouble to install a set of B-springs or something instead of putting the stockers back in?

I may just take the control arms off and have a shop deal with the bushings, but I'd really like to do this as cheaply as possible, so if there's any way I might be able to replace them myself I'll give it a try...

 

bill302

Active Member

Nov 2, 2005

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alabama,gadsden

Dec 30, 2005

#2

• Dec 30, 2005

• #2

HERES SOME INFO CLICK ON LINK, HOPE IT HELPS. YOU MAY KEEP STOCK SPRINGS OR AFTERMARKET YOUR CHOICE ITS NOT DIFFICULT TO REINSTALL, I JACK UP THE LOWER ARM WITH A JACK WHILE CAR IS ON BLOCKS PLACING BALL JOINT STUD INTO THE SPINDLE MOUNTING HOLE ALSO VERY IMPORTANT(REPLACE BALLJOINTS MAY SAVE YOU A HEADACHE IN THE FUTURE) YOU CAN REMOVE CONTROL ARM BOLTS AT HOME IF YOU HAVE A BIG LONG BREAKER BAR BOLTS HAVE 141-191 FT. LBS.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/52.shtml

 

Mavrick

Founding Member

Aug 29, 2002

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Collingwood, ON

Dec 30, 2005

#3

• Dec 30, 2005

• #3

Take the control arm off and let a shop deal with removing/installing bushings!!!

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Dec 30, 2005

#4

• Dec 30, 2005

• #4

I am with Mav - that is what I did. It was a few bucks well spent. I have read of guys using a big floor jack like a press, but I try not to be that shadetree.

Oh, you can remove the bolts with no air tools if you live in a decent climate (corrosion consideration). That probably does not apply to most folks. Mav is the expert on seized fasteners and dealing with them.

 

srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row

Oct 17, 2004

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Woodward Ave.

Dec 30, 2005

#5

• Dec 30, 2005

• #5

I'm with everyone else here....

Chauk the rear tires
Jack the front of the car up
Use a few jack stands to support the weight of the front half of the car
Begin removing the front suspension pieces
Take your bushings and lower control arms to the nearest suspension shop to have them pressed in

That is the cheapest, safest and most effective way to get it done.

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

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Jan 15, 2002

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Dallas, GA

Dec 30, 2005

#6

• Dec 30, 2005

• #6

Did it to my stock front controll arms, what a PITA. Controll arm removal, don't remember much but it was easy. Support the controll arm with a jack letting it down after removing strut bolts because there is tension there. I used an air chissel, actually three guys hitting the same bushing with three air chissels at once while the arm was in the vice, hit it with the torch too... our press sucked so we tried to do it the hard way. Got it done, but needed the right kind of press to get the new one's in. Take them to a shop with the proper press. New ball joints arn't a bad idea either.

 

jrichker

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Dublin GA

Dec 30, 2005

#7

• Dec 30, 2005

• #7

I would highly recommend that you use a chain to restrain the springs when you remove and replace them. If the spring flys out from it's resting place, the results can be very serious. There is enough energy in a flying spring to break bones or kill you. It's a safety thing, just like not getting under a car without using jackstands to support it.

 

bill302

Active Member

Nov 2, 2005

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alabama,gadsden

Dec 30, 2005

#8

• Dec 30, 2005

• #8

jrichker said:

I would highly recommend that you use a chain to restrain the springs when you remove and replace them. If the spring flys out from it's resting place, the results can be very serious. There is enough energy in a flying spring to break bones or kill you. It's a safety thing, just like not getting under a car without using jackstands to support it.

Click to expand...

very good point jrichker what your saying is use a chain or steel cable and when spring is inserted place cable or chain center of spring and secure chain or cable (strong enough to hold spring if it jumps out under load) to say the crossmember. learning some good stuf here.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Dec 30, 2005

#9

• Dec 30, 2005

• #9

JRichker's wise words should be listened to at all times with springs, and ESPECIALLY be adhered to if using the MFE method for spring removal.

I unhitched the ball joint and let the LCA pivot on the LCA bushings. I used an internal compressor on stock vert springs and it was a real PITA. But even with the LCA almost vertical (perpendicular to the ground), that spring still had PE.

 

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member

Apr 10, 2003

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reading, PA

Dec 30, 2005

#10

• Dec 30, 2005

• #10

This is the best way.......support the bushing side of the "A" arm.....remove the piviot bolts and lower the jack. spring extends and falls out. Doing it on the balljoint side leaves the tension on the spring and the a arm dont go far enough the release tension. Did on that way and was hours getting the spring back in. the bushing side took 1 hour to r & I with new bushing also.( I have a press).

hope this helps.:SNSign:

 

Shakerhood

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Oct 28, 2004

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Ohio

Jan 1, 2006

#11

• Jan 1, 2006

• #11

Might want to also just consider buying a set of FMS Lower A Arms, they already have new Bushings and upgraded balljoints!