Front Control Arm Problem

Skud

Member

Sep 10, 2003

493

0

17

Saskatchewan

Apr 27, 2007

#1

• Apr 27, 2007

• #1

Hi All,

I'm trying to remove my front control arms to put in urethane bushings and new balljoints. I have it all down to the control arm and I got the nuts off of the two bolts that hold the CA in.

On both sides the bolt that is towards the read of the car came out perfectly fine, but again on both sides the front bolt won't come out. It's free of the metal sleeve inside the bushing. I can turn the bolt and watch as the bolt moves, while the sleeve stays put so it should just slide right out. It doesn't make any sense that the bolt is free of the sleeve but doesn't come out..

Any thoughts?

Thanks!!
Riley

 

D

Dragstr05

New Member

Dec 21, 2004

643

1

0

Stafford VA

Apr 27, 2007

#2

• Apr 27, 2007

• #2

Get a flat tip prybar and put it just behind the head of the bolt, support the pry bar shaft on something (control arm, k-member, whatever works that wont break), and just kinda pop the handle. That should get it out.

 

B

bdcardinal

tree hugger

Jun 10, 2003

3,612

16

69

santa barbara, CA

Apr 27, 2007

#3

• Apr 27, 2007

• #3

if you can get it in there, get a long thin punch and tap the bolt until it comes out.

 

D

Dragstr05

New Member

Dec 21, 2004

643

1

0

Stafford VA

Apr 27, 2007

#4

• Apr 27, 2007

• #4

bdcardinal said:

if you can get it in there, get a long thin punch and tap the bolt until it comes out.

Click to expand...

That too

 

Skud

Member

Sep 10, 2003

493

0

17

Saskatchewan

Apr 28, 2007

#5

• Apr 28, 2007

• #5

OK, Update...

I got the passenger one out and all the threads that were inside the bushing sleeve were solid rust.. Like it rusted and formed to the shape of the sleeve. The driver's side bolt it probably like that as well, but worse..

The driver's side one is in there solid.. It's not moving at all. I think I may have to drop the K member so I can really get in there and whack at it using a long bolt/punch through the other bolt hole. As it is I can't get a long enough tool through there.

So I think I may end up installing my headers after all now that I have to drop the K member..

Both bad and good I guess...

Riley

 

nyuk98gt

15 Year Member

Oct 10, 2000

1,427

6

79

Chesterfield, MO

Apr 28, 2007

#6

• Apr 28, 2007

• #6

Skud:

Have you used PB Blaster on those bolts? It will get in at the rust and help loosen things a bit. If you can't find it, just find the best penetrating oil you can (and WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil).

HTH,

Chris

 

Skud

Member

Sep 10, 2003

493

0

17

Saskatchewan

Apr 28, 2007

#7

• Apr 28, 2007

• #7

nyuk98gt said:

Skud:

Have you used PB Blaster on those bolts? It will get in at the rust and help loosen things a bit. If you can't find it, just find the best penetrating oil you can (and WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil).

HTH,

Chris

Click to expand...

Yupper.. That's what I use..

I got the K member off and I have the bolt sitting vertical now and I've soaked it some more with PB Blaster.. I'll let gravity and PB Blaster do it's thing overnight..

Thanks!!
Riley

 

Skud

Member

Sep 10, 2003

493

0

17

Saskatchewan

May 5, 2007

#8

• May 5, 2007

• #8

I ended up getting the bolt out, but I had to work at it.

I ended up getting it about a 1/2" out and then I cut the head off with a hacksaw. After that, I put an old 1" piece of copper tube I had on the other end to use as a spacer and I tightened the nut. As I tightened, it pulled the bolt out..

The bolt itself was trashed (obviously). The whole bolt was wet with PB Blaster, so that goes to show how well the stuff gets into the cracks.

Riley