Front Hub Assembly Removal

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

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Feb 17, 2006

#21

• Feb 17, 2006

• #21

Picked up my parts at the Ford parts counter on the way home from work and to the Honda dealership. Yeah, I gave money to two dealerships today...

They had the hub bearing assembly and one of the dust caps in stock. Ordered the retaining nut and other cap. Those dots on top are dabs of antiseize.

View attachment 486840

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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Feb 20, 2006

#22

• Feb 20, 2006

• #22

Do I grease the spindle? Can you post the instruction for the install Mike? Removal is complete

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

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Feb 20, 2006

#23

• Feb 20, 2006

• #23

dosent look too difficult but 258lb/ft of tq is a lot ive got to replace my passenger side front this spring on the 95 when it comes out of storage.

what problems is yours giving you now klilgore? mine sorta like clicks and makes a wierd noise if i take left hand turns really hard (noticed it autocrossing this summer)

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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Feb 20, 2006

#24

• Feb 20, 2006

• #24

There is play in the wheel when I grab it and try to move it. Up and down play only, no side to side. Also, humming/moaning going around corners and premature tire wear on the inside edge.

Looking at the hub bearing assembly now that it is off the spindle I see that it is totally shot... Grinds even...

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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Feb 20, 2006

#25

• Feb 20, 2006

• #25

Alright, here a few more pics of engine, new hub, and rotor. I totally cleaned up the inner and outer faces of the rotor with a cupped wire wheel mounted in my drill. I also cleaned up the threads on the spindle with a wire wheel. I used brake cleaner and a rag to clean up the machined surface of the spindle. The new hub bearing assembly is so much better, the old one was shot. All I need now is the bearing retainer nut which will be at the Ford parts counter tomorrow.

View attachment 486432

View attachment 486434

View attachment 486436

 

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kovacs22

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Milan Michigan (Ann Arbor)

Feb 21, 2006

#26

• Feb 21, 2006

• #26

Hey Kilgore, Glad to see you got that problem figured out and fixed. I remember a while back you posting about that and wondering what it was, some people said ball joint but i was tellin you it sounded just like my wheel bearing and that seems to be the case....anyway its nice to know its all taken care of now. BTW nice clean engine bay

Ryan

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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Feb 21, 2006

#27

• Feb 21, 2006

• #27

Thanks Kovacs!

I just finished test driving the Mustang after completing the installation. SO MUCH BETTER!

Even that moaning I THOUGHT was my power steering pump is gone! WOOT!



Oh, and having proper wheel bearings sure makes a diff in handling and steering, who woulda thunk?

 

jeffnoel

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Aug 31, 2002

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Clovis, CA

Jan 9, 2007

#28

• Jan 9, 2007

• #28

I'm about to do this but were do I find a torque wrench that goes that high?

Oh, can can anyone verify the socket size needed as 36mm?

Thanks

 

DTNODYA

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Dec 15, 2005

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Jan 9, 2007

#29

• Jan 9, 2007

• #29

jeffnoel said:

I'm about to do this but were do I find a torque wrench that goes that high?

Oh, can can anyone verify the socket size needed as 36mm?

Thanks

Click to expand...

36mm

It might be that big .. I don't know what size it is but ... I'll see if I can find out real quick.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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Jan 9, 2007

#30

• Jan 9, 2007

• #30

WTF? If I f'n said it is 36mm then it is f'n 36mm... Damn...

 

jeffnoel

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Jan 9, 2007

#31

• Jan 9, 2007

• #31

Kilgore Trout said:

WTF? If I f'n said it is 36mm then it is f'n 36mm... Damn...

Click to expand...

You never actually say what the socket size , svttech76 says it might be but never verified it , so go add another hole to your belt and take a deep breath.

 

DTNODYA

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Jan 9, 2007

#32

• Jan 9, 2007

• #32

Kilgore Trout said:

WTF? If I f'n said it is 36mm then it is f'n 36mm... Damn...

Click to expand...

Who's that directed at?

 

BCB00GT

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Jan 9, 2007

#33

• Jan 9, 2007

• #33

Kilgore Trout said:

There is play in the wheel when I grab it and try to move it. Up and down play only, no side to side. Also, humming/moaning going around corners and premature tire wear on the inside edge.

Looking at the hub bearing assembly now that it is off the spindle I see that it is totally shot... Grinds even...

Click to expand...

Kilgore,

Wanted to verify the up down type of play. I was rotating my tires and noticed that on my driver side I can hold one hand at the 12 (top) and the other at 6 (bottom) and get some movement back and forth. Is this similar to yours?

Funny thing is the driver side was in a wreck and have a feeling maybe they pulled the dust cover off to check things out. Possibly aiding in the failure.

Either way I might have a bad bearing. Car now has 101K and the wreck was at 42K.

Thanks

 

jeffnoel

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Jan 9, 2007

#34

• Jan 9, 2007

• #34

That's what mines does but passenger side only.

 

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bdcardinal

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Jun 10, 2003

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Jan 9, 2007

#35

• Jan 9, 2007

• #35

up and down movement with hands at 12 and 6 is a bad bearing, side to side movement with hands at 9 and 3 is a tie rod. if you put a prybar under the tire, and lift up and the tire goes up its a bad lower ball joint. ford allows for .030" play in the ball joint, measurable by a dial indicator on the top of the ball joint.

 

S

stuart415

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Nov 9, 2004

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Oct 19, 2007

#36

• Oct 19, 2007

• #36

front hub bearings

is there a cance that they will go bad if you over tighten the retainer nut on the hub

 

BCB00GT

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Oct 19, 2007

#37

• Oct 19, 2007

• #37

I think it would be pretty hard to overtighten 250 ft-lb (I believe that is what it called for), unless you have a 2+ foot breaker bar. Plus, you should be using a torque wrench.

 

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bdcardinal

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Oct 19, 2007

#38

• Oct 19, 2007

• #38

are we talking a couple foot pounds overtightened or are we talking about blasting away with a 3/4" impact gun until the air compressor overheats

 

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bdcardinal

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Oct 19, 2007

#39

• Oct 19, 2007

• #39

BCB00GT said:

I think it would be pretty hard to overtighten 250 ft-lb (I believe that is what it called for), unless you have a 2+ foot breaker bar. Plus, you should be using a torque wrench.

Click to expand...

u would be amazed.