Front K-Member

[94_5.0]

I am thinking of getting rid of my stock K-member and going with either a Kenny brown kit or a MM K-Member kit. Has anybody done either and if you have what were the good and bad thing you experenced with the swap? If you had the choice to do it again would you? Also was it worth the $$, or would you have done something diffrent instead?

 

[95snoozer]

I would say spend your money on aluminum heads

you lose close to thesame weight off the front and you gain HP

 

[Rootus]

I think a K-member swap is cool, but not sure if it's worth it on a mildly modded car. It's nice to push the wheels forward an inch, makes it look more normal when your car is lowered. But it seems kinda spendy. At least with the MM kit, you have to go with aftermarket A-arms, and that usually means coil-overs. $$.

Dave

 

[baglock1]

I'm running the Griggs K-member currently and like it quite a bit. If you're going to go through the hassle of a K-member swap, then at least get one that revises the front geometry to acceptable standards.

Yes, I would do it again, but I'm a handling guy who puts more attention towards suspension than the motor. I'd highly recommend it, but there are those who believe the motor is a wiser choice to put money. Methinks you need a solid foundation to build a house on.

Between the KB and MM, go with the MM, hands down.

FYI, my current front setup:
Griggs tubular K-member
Griggs tubular A-arms
Griggs bumpsteer kit
Solid rack and pinion bushings
MM coilovers (w/375# springs)
MM CC plates
99 spindles

 

[95GTvert[bv12]]

deffently go with MM over kb, but if you realy want a good one save up for griggs they will fix the geometry and i belive are much better then MM

also baglock whats you rear suppension look like?

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Like Dan, I'm into suspension too. I'm going with the D&D or PA K-Member, Strange adjustable struts/shocks and coil overs. Thinking about turning my car into a Factory Stocker drag car so the weight savings is nice.

 

[YEAHLOH95]

i'm happy with my d and d and did it mainly for the weight savings and i think my car handles well with all the tubular stuff up front .now it's onto the rear

 

[94_5.0]

just out of curosity how much did you set ups cost (D&D, Griggs, ect..)? and how hard is it to install, did you do it your self or did you have a shop do it for you? If you did intall it your self what was required to do the swap right... and did you change your motor mounts while you were at it?

 

[baglock1]

also baglock whats you rear suppension look like?

Currently I'm running the MM road race LCA's, MM coilovers (with 250# springs), and bilsteins. The quads are removed along with the sway bar. A TA/PHB is the natural addition, but I'm waiting to see how EVM's 3-link is going to look. If initial reports bare true, I'll use it along with a PHB of my own design.

just out of curosity how much did you set ups cost (D&D, Griggs, ect..)? and how hard is it to install, did you do it your self or did you have a shop do it for you? If you did intall it your self what was required to do the swap right... and did you change your motor mounts while you were at it?

Oh boy, I don't even want to think about it, but since you asked...

Griggs K-member, A-arms, and bumpsteer kit -- $900 used, from a guy who wrecked his car before he installed it all.
Cobra R Bilsteins -- $280
MM CC plates -- $195
MM Coilover's and springs -- $370
ES poly motor/tranny mounts -- $160
99 Spindles -- $135

Of course the motor mounts and spindles aren't necessary but I figured since I'm in there I might as well. Installation was all done by me. Took me a day (about 8 hours total) to do the front by myself on jackstands and using handtools. It's really not too tough of a job for the competant mechanic. If you do decide to do it yourself, I highly recommend that you:

1. Read the instructions at least once, cover to cover, every day for a week prior to the install. Make it so that you can do the install in your head without referring to the instructions. When you actually do it, refer to the instructions repeatedly.

2. If there is any aspect you're unsure of, ask questions. Call the manufacturer, post the questions, anything to get the CORRECT answers you need.

3. Take your time. Shaving a few minutes during the install can create a very unsafe car, or at a minimum, make the car virtually undrivable and a tire chewer out of it.

4. Don't be afraid to walk away for a few minutes if you get frustrated or are unsure of a step. Because of this, you should make sure you have everything you need, or have someone available to drive you around if the install goes longer than planned.

5. Remember, half the fun of having a fun car is building a fun car. The journey is part of the trip.

 

[Joes95GT]

Like Dan, I'm into suspension too. I'm going with the D&D or PA K-Member, Strange adjustable struts/shocks and coil overs. Thinking about turning my car into a Factory Stocker drag car so the weight savings is nice.

:OT:, so your gonna can the S-trim? That would be awesome to see someone do something like that. You gonna swap to a 4.56?

Joe

 

[VibrantRedGT]

:OT:, so your gonna can the S-trim? That would be awesome to see someone do something like that. You gonna swap to a 4.56?

Joe

Yea, it's already out of the car. Probably just 4.10's I think (4:30's possibly). I'm still not sure because I think my #8 cylinder is toast. That would mean yanking the motor and more money.

 

[Joes95GT]

Yea, it's already out of the car. Probably just 4.10's I think (4:30's possibly). I'm still not sure because I think my #8 cylinder is toast. That would mean yanking the motor and more money.

Well, good luck with her. FYI, a 4.56 on a 28 inch tire is only going to be like 200 more RPM than a 4.30 on 26 inch tires, if you want to get crazy. Good luck with the motor.

Joe