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Front Main Seal Removal Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Danman765432
  • Start date Start date Mar 31, 2008
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
471
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16
Nutley, NJ
Mar 31, 2008
#1
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #1
I was just wondering what you guys used to pull it out of the timing cover or did you pull the whole timing cover off?

I am going to be changing it out on wed. and I want it to go as smoothly as possible.

-Dan
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Chicagoland
Mar 31, 2008
#2
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #2
When you pull the balancer, you should be able to yank the front main seal like you would the rear, by threading a screw into it and pulling. Then it's just as simple as tapping the new one in place and popping the balancer back on.
 

divit250r

Member
Mar 31, 2005
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16
Columbia City, IN
Mar 31, 2008
#3
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #3
StangGT1995 said:
When you pull the balancer, you should be able to yank the front main seal like you would the rear, by threading a screw into it and pulling. Then it's just as simple as tapping the new one in place and popping the balancer back on.
Click to expand...

I don't believe it'll be that simple. The front seal is encased in a steel shell. You have to pry it out of the timing cover. I did mine when it was off the car and I was really a little worried that it would crack the cover when I was hitting it with a punch and hammer to remove it, and then the seal installer and a hammer to put the new one in. One tip: put a little sealer on the new one, around the outside of the housing where it slides into the cover. Mine is seeping from this area. Good luck!

Scott
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
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Chicagoland
Mar 31, 2008
#4
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #4
If it's the stock one, it should come out without too much difficulty. The aftermarket replacements are the ones that typically have the steel around them. I didn't think the new one I put in my timing cover would go in at first, but once I started tapping on it and it started, it seated with no problem.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
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Arkansas
Mar 31, 2008
#5
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #5
I have always had to bend and pry them out.

Installing them is as easy as tapping them in by using a thin flat board.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
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Chicagoland
Mar 31, 2008
#6
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #6
Tapping them in with a thin, flat board is kinda difficult with a crank snout in the way, however.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
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Arkansas
Mar 31, 2008
#7
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #7
Good point.

The last one I did, I pulled the timing cover, so I cheated.

Just tap around the crank snout then as evenly as possible.
 
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
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Nutley, NJ
Mar 31, 2008
#8
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #8
also I have my distributor out right now, it would be fine if the crank spins as long as I set it back to tdc right?

Also using an impact wrench will be fine right?, last time when I removed my harmonic balancer, it was a pain in the ass of jamming in screw drivers to try and get the crank to stop turning, since I have an automatic trans. I wont be putting the nuts and stuff on with the impact however.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
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113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Mar 31, 2008
#9
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #9
Impact wrench will be fine. That's the only way I've been able to get that bolt free. Some have said you can break it loose by putting a breaker bar on the wrench and bump the engine over, but I wouldn't try that with the distributor out.

If you still have the heads on, careful when setting TDC. I thought I had set it right, but I was about 90deg out. Messed me up good.
 
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
471
0
16
Nutley, NJ
Mar 31, 2008
#10
  • Mar 31, 2008
  • #10
yeah i have the heads off, I just got them back from the machine shop today. Just waiting for my headers to come in but they should be here on wed.
 

94 Cobra 5.0

Member
Sep 18, 2004
114
1
16
Ft. Riley, KS
Apr 1, 2008
#11
  • Apr 1, 2008
  • #11
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=LRS-6700B 1&comp=LRS

more than likely this is the seal that is in the car right now. i usually just use a seal puller to remove it, usually works the easiest. you wont be able to just slap a screw driver on the seal and pry it out because of the metal case thats on it.
if you seal is like the link below that will work but other wise i would recommend the puller.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=MG-780G 1&comp=LRS

good luck with the car.
 
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
471
0
16
Nutley, NJ
Apr 1, 2008
#12
  • Apr 1, 2008
  • #12
Yeah it is probably the green one since the seal is green...What seal puller do you use?
 
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
471
0
16
Nutley, NJ
Apr 2, 2008
#13
  • Apr 2, 2008
  • #13
Well I got the actual seal out but the metal casing around it wont even budge. The metal is only bending and just wont pop out. What else could be done before I get pissed off and take the water pump and timing cover off?

-Dan
 
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
471
0
16
Nutley, NJ
Apr 2, 2008
#14
  • Apr 2, 2008
  • #14
when taking off my timing cover I found out the leak wasnt really the seal but a hole in my timing cover from last time when I used screwdrivers to take off my harmonic balancer. Oops
 
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