front spring install

ahhhh, i would wait and get the stuts and do it all at once.
i didnt read the article, but if you still have questions,come back. i had to rig the autozone compressor to make it work, but it did. i can give some info on what you need to make it work.
if the article uses the jack method on the LCA, i have not done that.
anyhow, good luck.

Thats funny, cause I was gonna go out tommorrow and try to remove my front ones with the jack method. If it looks too dangerous to me, then I will get a compressor. MM says to use the jack method. " Often, the spring can be gently "popped" out once the lower control arm is lowered far enough. With some springs, that may mean the control arm is angled straight downwards, at vertical." Thats word for word, go to the MM site and look at "instructions" over to the left. www.maximummotorsports.com

I have done it many times with the jack method. It is easy if you take your time and be sure to have Jack Stands for the car to sit on. Just angle the jack to the front so you are not in front of the spring. Also be sure that you have good control over the lowering of your jack. I would only use a 2ton or better full size floor jack. Never use a bottle jack. I know restateing the obvious but ya never know.

that jack meathod works very well as long as you have a nice size floor jack. it's not dangerous at all unless you're using a small jack and it just doesn't seem too sturdy.

I did my springs w/ a larger pry bar and a floor jack (3 ton hydraulic). However the safer way would be to get the spring compressor.

axeman said:

that jack meathod works very well as long as you have a nice size floor jack. it's not dangerous at all unless you're using a small jack and it just doesn't seem too sturdy.

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Dude, your first name's not Tony by any chance is it?

I've done 5 sets, first 3 i used the jack method with removing the control arm, but the last 2 i used the stuff the spring in method, and trust me it works. I'd try that before removing the control arm. Note: this only works with lowering springs.

Just disconnect everything except the arm itself, have someone put weight on the arm while you push the spring into place (i used my foot). This saved a ton of time.

PRO50SC said:

Dude, your first name's not Tony by any chance is it?

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nope, it's mark

Ive been told the way I do it is stupid but it works good for me. I did my springs in about an hour by myself. I put the car on jack stands and put a floor jack under the control arm and take the 2 back bolts out of the arm I didn't disconnect anything else then lower it down slowly and if the spring does pop out it will pop out toweds the back and not at you face so I always felt better doing this way. Going in was just as easy jack it back up and instal the 2 control arm bolts.
Tom

When I did my drag springs I used an internal spring compressor. Worked well.

use the jack method i just did it tonight and i worked for me. it is the second time i have done it this way with no problems.

use the jack method i just did it tonight and i worked for me. it is the second time i have done it this way with no problems.

93lx50conv said:

Thanks...so your telling me this jack method is okay to use, and the spring wont pop out and damage anything?

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I have done this numerous times...as late as last Saturday. Still hate it.

Overall, you can get the stock front springs out by just removing the tie rods, the sway bar end links, and the lower ball joint.

Most aftermarket springs are shorter and may go in with just a prybar or bit of compression. Putting the stockers back is very difficult w/o a compressor.

Without a spring compressor, it may be easier to leave the strut and ball joint connected, and remove the inner pivot bolts. This makes the lower arm and upper seat more parallel when you try to jack the new springs back in.

Lately, I use the lower ball joint removal method and have resorted to a homemade spring compressor of 1/2 in thick, 2 in by 4 in or so steel plates, with a hole in the center for a threaded rod. I broke a piece of 1/2 rod, so now I use 5/8 th. I insert the plates, and an upper nut, and the rod. Leave the rod long enough to extend out of the hole in the lower arm, but short enough to fit into the hole when you assemble the spring. Put a nut at the bottom plate, and tighten either the top or bottom nut. A pair of nuts double nutted at the bottom of the rod makes it easier to turn. Compress the spring as much as you can, probably and inch and a half max. At this length, it should be easy to put the spring into the upper seat and lower arm and jack the lower arm back into place and install the ball joint nut. Then remove the compressor tool. A KD Tools internal compressor would work, and I bought one, but the end pieces were too big to get out through the hole in the lower arm. Could grind them a bit I think.

Took less than 3 hours last Sat. Remembered I did not use cotter pins last time, too.

Real country boys compress the spring with a jack under the front axle of a 4x4 pickup and use coathanger wire to hold it compressed. Actually read that method in a magazine once, but have not tried it....

I did my whole front end at once. Used PST kit and replaced all the bushing and ball joints while I had the front apart. Used good floor jack under lower control arm to compress the springs and line up strut bolts. I felt like doing everything at one time and not in stages...

Kelly

Real country boys compress the spring with a jack under the front axle of a 4x4 pickup and use coathanger wire to hold it compressed. Actually read that method in a magazine once, but have not tried it....[/QUOTE]

Thats pretty funny, my bud says he took out a set of springs using 8 pairs of vise grips as a spring compressor. He said the pliers flew everywhere when they were released. Then he rented a spring compressor to put them back in. I dont have to put mine back in, so maybe I will try the coat hanger trick.