93lx50conv said:
Thanks...so your telling me this jack method is okay to use, and the spring wont pop out and damage anything?
I have done this numerous times...as late as last Saturday. Still hate it.
Overall, you can get the stock front springs out by just removing the tie rods, the sway bar end links, and the lower ball joint.
Most aftermarket springs are shorter and may go in with just a prybar or bit of compression. Putting the stockers back is very difficult w/o a compressor.
Without a spring compressor, it may be easier to leave the strut and ball joint connected, and remove the inner pivot bolts. This makes the lower arm and upper seat more parallel when you try to jack the new springs back in.
Lately, I use the lower ball joint removal method and have resorted to a homemade spring compressor of 1/2 in thick, 2 in by 4 in or so steel plates, with a hole in the center for a threaded rod. I broke a piece of 1/2 rod, so now I use 5/8 th. I insert the plates, and an upper nut, and the rod. Leave the rod long enough to extend out of the hole in the lower arm, but short enough to fit into the hole when you assemble the spring. Put a nut at the bottom plate, and tighten either the top or bottom nut. A pair of nuts double nutted at the bottom of the rod makes it easier to turn. Compress the spring as much as you can, probably and inch and a half max. At this length, it should be easy to put the spring into the upper seat and lower arm and jack the lower arm back into place and install the ball joint nut. Then remove the compressor tool. A KD Tools internal compressor would work, and I bought one, but the end pieces were too big to get out through the hole in the lower arm. Could grind them a bit I think.
Took less than 3 hours last Sat. Remembered I did not use cotter pins last time, too.
Real country boys compress the spring with a jack under the front axle of a 4x4 pickup and use coathanger wire to hold it compressed. Actually read that method in a magazine once, but have not tried it....