fuel cut off switch
- Thread starter 90bronconate
- Start date
91LX_5L
Founding Member
wont it still be able to get fired up?? why not just a hidden ignition kill switch I had one of those hooked up to my 6AL when I had it. Had it hidden under my ciggerette ash tray.
Black95GTS
Active Member
90bronconate said:
You could run it from a bunch of places... someone I know
ran theirs through their clutch safety wire, so that when you depress the clutch it won't send the signal through the ignition system unless the switch is hit.- Adam
LoudToy958
Member
I am fond of the guy who used his overhead map light as ignition and his domelight as a starter relay. He wired one light for ignition,(no bulb), and the the domelight had to be on or the starter would not engage. Pretty good idea if you ask me.
CManT1914
New Member
Subscribing... We need some info on how to wire both a fuel pump cutoff switch, and an ignition cutoff switch.
here's the link to the fuel switch.
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/cutoff.html
i didn't follow it exactly. i just interupted the "green w/ yellow stripe" wire with a switch. i put the hot side to the positive, the fuel pump side to the load and left the ground alone because it's a hidden switch so i didn't want it to light up. the only thing that the link doesn't say is when you pull up the bundle of wires the wire you want meets up with all the other wires about half way past the seat. so make sure you have the right wire.
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/cutoff.html
i didn't follow it exactly. i just interupted the "green w/ yellow stripe" wire with a switch. i put the hot side to the positive, the fuel pump side to the load and left the ground alone because it's a hidden switch so i didn't want it to light up. the only thing that the link doesn't say is when you pull up the bundle of wires the wire you want meets up with all the other wires about half way past the seat. so make sure you have the right wire.
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter 
It's very simple to do the fuel cut off switch. Just find the fuel pump wires, trace them to the engine compartment, cut one, test and make sure that the fuel pump doesn't work now, butt connect both wires to seperate wires and run the new wires up to the front of the car, get them inside the cab, run them under the carpet to the drivers seat, mount the switch and wire it up. Now the fuel pump won't turn on unless the switch is in the on position.
I used a standard 4 connection relay, cut and wired one wire from the fuel pump wires to the relay, then ran a ground to the chassis. Then ran a 12V wire from under the dash to the switch, then ran another wire to the relay. So now the fuel pump only comes on when the relay is activated, and the relay is only activated when I hit the switch.
I took off the seat cover and cut a small hole in the foam of the seat. Then I put the switch in the hold, put the cover back on, and voila. Now the switch is extremely hidden and no one will ever find it.
I also used all black wires and made it look factory. You would never know to look there.
Scott
I used a standard 4 connection relay, cut and wired one wire from the fuel pump wires to the relay, then ran a ground to the chassis. Then ran a 12V wire from under the dash to the switch, then ran another wire to the relay. So now the fuel pump only comes on when the relay is activated, and the relay is only activated when I hit the switch.
I took off the seat cover and cut a small hole in the foam of the seat. Then I put the switch in the hold, put the cover back on, and voila. Now the switch is extremely hidden and no one will ever find it.
I also used all black wires and made it look factory. You would never know to look there.
Scott
Black95GTS
Active Member
mo_dingo said:
This is exactly what I did with the safety wire... I got out the haynes manual, followed the electrical diagram in the back (actually surprisingly good) and wired up a switch. I don't understand the 4th wire though... my switch has three terminals: one from the wire to the switch, one to ground, and one to the wire to the rest of the circuit.
Switch is off, circuit is open. Switch is closed, circuit is closed.
- Adam
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter
Black95GTS said:
I used a relay that I get at work all the time. I have about 3 extras, so if it ever goes bad, I can replace it for free.
See, the relay is positive activated, once it get's 12V+, it allows current to pass through and the fuel pump will turn on. But the relay needs a ground too, so that is why the 3rd wire is there. I can't see how a relay can work w/o a ground....12V+ w/o a ground is an open loop and will not pass current through to close the relay.
Scott
Black95GTS
Active Member
HISSIN50 said:
As I understand it, when you throw the switch on a relay, the voltage polarizes a normally non-polarized piece of metal in the relay which then attracts the iron within in the relay to move, thus closing the circuit. As long as the relay is polarized, the metal will stay magnetic and maintain a closed circuit.
What would the proper term for what I have be? I always thought it was a switch but I have to admit to getting confused. When my "switch" is off, wire goes to ground. When my switch is on, wire is "hot." I believe what I am using is the same as what Scott is using, but without polarizing 12+line and the moving metal piece within the gizmo.
- Adam
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