Fuel Inj. Setup Help...

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $25-$40 from Borders.com see]http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search. Try searching using M-1832-Z1 instead of the ISBN number if you don’t get any positive results. You may only be able to find a used one, since the book is as old as the cars it covers. Or you order it from your Ford dealer as SVO part no. M-1832-Z1.


Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.


1.)The engine fuel injector harness on your 86 should be compatible with Mass Air. All of the engine fuel injector harness assemblies from 86 to 93 were the same.

2.) The best main computer harness for you plan would be out of an 89 5.0 Mustang.

3.) O2 sensors are there to keep things running right. Don't try to cheap out and leave them out of your plan.

4.) The stock fuel pump will not deliver enough fuel to run 24LB injectors. Recommended fuel pump would be a 155 LPH pump.

Copied from the FORD RACING PERFORMANCE PARTS catalog:

PROPERLY SIZING FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS

Fuel Pumps
The following information is presented assuming the above information has been taken into consideration regarding BSFC, fuel pressure and specific gravity of the fuel being used. Most fuel pumps for electronic fuel injection are rated for flow at 12 volts @ 40 PSI. Most vehicle charging systems operate anywhere from 13.2v to 14.4v. The more voltage you feed a pump, the faster it spins which, obviously, will put out more fuel. Rating a fuel pump at 12 volts then, should offer a fairly conservative fuel flow rating allowing you to safely determine the pump’s ability to supply an adequate amount of fuel for a particular application.

As previously mentioned, engines actually require a certain WEIGHT of fuel, NOT a certain VOLUME of fuel per horsepower. This can offer a bit of confusion since most fuel pumps are rated by volume, and not by weight. To determine the proper fuel pump required, a few mathematical conversions will need to be performed using the following information. There are 3.785 liters in 1 US Gallon. 1 gallon of gasoline (.72 specific gravity @ 65° F) weighs 6.009 LBS.

To be certain that the fuel pump is not run to its very limit, which could potentially be dangerous to the engine, multiply the final output of the fuel pump by 0.9 to determine the capacity of the fuel pump at 90% output. This should offer plenty of ‘cushion’ as to the overall “horsepower capacity” of the fuel pump.

To determine the overall capacity of a fuel pump rated in liters, use the additional following conversions:
(Liters per Hour) / 3.785 = Gallons
Multiply by 6.009 = LBS/HR
Multiply by 0.9 = Capacity at 90%
Divide by BSFC = Horsepower Capacity
So for a 110 LPH fuel pump:
110 / 3.785 = 29.06 Gallons
29.06 x 6.009 = 174.62 LBS/HR
174.62 x 0.9 = 157 LBS/HR @ 90% Capacity
157 / 0.5 = 314 HP safe naturally aspirated “Horsepower Capacity”
Safe “Horsepower Capacity” @ 40 PSI with 12 Volts
60 Liter Pump = 95 LB/HR X .9 = 86 LB/HR, Safe for 170 naturally aspirated Horsepower
88 Liter Pump = 140 LB/HR X .9 = 126 LB/HR, Safe for 250 naturally aspirated Horsepower
110 Liter Pump = 175 LB/HR X .9 = 157 LB/HR, Safe for 315 naturally aspirated Horsepower
155 Liter Pump = 246 LB/HR X .9 = 221 LB/HR, Safe for 440 naturally aspirated Horsepower
190 Liter Pump = 302 LB/HR X .9 = 271 LB/HR, Safe for 540 naturally aspirated Horsepower
255 Liter Pump = 405 LB/HR X .9 = 364 LB/HR, Safe for 700 naturally aspirated Horsepower

Note: For forced induction engines, the above power levels will be reduced because as the pressure required by the pump increases, the flow decreases. In order to do proper fuel pump sizing, a fuel pump map is required, which shows flow rate versus delivery pressure.

That is, a 255 liter per hour pump at 40 PSI may only supply 200 liters per hour at 58 PSI (40 PSI plus 18 lbs of boost). Additionally, if you use a fuel line that is not large enough, this can result in decreased fuel volume due to the pressure drop across the fuel feed line: 255 LPH at the pump may only result in 225 LPH at the fuel rail.



Fuel injector sizing & injector photos

Revised 11-Dec-2011 to add larger injector sizes to injector table

Injector HP ratings: divide flow rating by.5 and multiply the result by the number of injectors. This uses a 100% duty cycle. These ratings are for naturally aspirated engines at the flywheel.

Example:
19/.5 = 38, 38 x 8 = 304 HP
24/.5 = 48, 48 x 8 = 384 HP
30/.5 = 60, 60 x 8 = 480 HP
36/.5 = 72, 72 x 8 = 576 HP
42/.5 = 84, 84 x 8 = 672 HP

The preferred duty cycle is about 85% maximum, so for a safety factor multiply the final figure times .85.

19/.5 = 38, 38 x 8 = 304 HP x .85 = 258 HP
24/.5 = 48, 48 x 8 = 384 HP x .85 = 326 HP
30/.5 = 60, 60 x 8 = 480 HP x .85 = 408 HP
36/.5 = 72, 72 x 8 = 576 HP x .85 = 490 HP
42/.5 = 84, 84 x 8 = 672 HP x .85 = 571 HP

Remember that the above ratings are at 39 PSI. Increasing the pressure will effectively increase the flow rating. Example: a 19 lb injector will flow 24 lbs at 63 PSI, and a 24 lb injector will flow 30 lbs at 63 PSI.

See http://users.erols.com/srweiss/ to get the calculators used in these examples.

Here's the duty cycle explanation. Duty cycle is how much of the time the intake is open the injectors are turned on. The 85% figure means that for 85% of the time the intake valve is open, the injectors are spraying. The idea is that you want some percentage of the duty cycle left over so that you have some room to grow the process.

If you are at 100% and you need more fuel, all you can do is turn up the fuel pressure. That means the whole fuel curve from idle to WOT is affected. Maybe you are already too rich at idle, and turning up the fuel pressure makes it worse. If you had some injector duty cycle left to play with, a custom tune could use that where it is needed. That would not over richen the whole range from idle to WOT.

If you did turn up the fuel pressure, you might be able to change the injector duty cycle to get the air/fuel mixture ratio you want since the injectors will have extra fuel delivery capability.

With larger than stock injectors or higher that stock fuel pressure, you will need an aftermarket MAF that matches the injector size. The MAF “lies” to the computer to get a fuel delivery schedule that meets the engine’s needs and isn’t too rich or too lean. The best strategy is an aftermarket MAF and a custom tune to insure the best air/fuel ratio over all the RPM range.

Don't forget to increase the fuel pump size when you increase injector size or significantly increase the fuel pressure



Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif


MASS air conversion instructions from http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html FREE
A9L (5 Speed) computer from junkyard $100-$150
A9P (Auto or in a pinch, it will work in a 5 Speed car) computer from junkyard $100-$150
70MM MAF from 94-95 Mustang GT - $40-$70
MASS Air wiring harness kit $30-$85

The whole thing is probably less than $300 using junkyard parts.

A9L computers are 5 speed only
A9P computers are automatic, but will work with a 5 speed.

The conversion harness seems to work well for most folks. It avoids the compatibility problems in using a harness from the junkyard. Simple and cheap, actually less work that swapping the wiring harness.
Conversion Harness kits & parts
http://www.mass-air.com/
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=54

If the idea of moving & soldering wires scares you, here's a list of compatible Mass Air wiring harnesses.

Copied from bbunt302
Just for reference, here's a list of all the compatible years:

89 harness should work for 86-89 as long as you're using mass air.
90 harness will only work in a 90. (B/c of air bags and dual dash connectors)
91 through early 92 harnesses should be compatible (single dash connector, fuel pump relay under driver's seat)
Late 92 through 93 harnesses should be compatible (single dash connector, fuel pump relay under the hood)

Larger MAF to go with Mass Air conversion:
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
Try AutoZone and ask for 81413 - Spectre / 3 in. Aluminum Intake Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter at $12.00. You may have to order it online.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.

Also see www.forfuelinjection.com for help with the harness parts http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=10, and connector pins, http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=11[/url

1. Don't bother with changing the whole harness, just get a MAF pigtail and wire it into the computer plug (instructions included) http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ustang-50L-Mass-Air-Conversion-Wiring-Harness

You'll also need an A9L computer if your car is a stick.

2. See above.

3. Yes.

4. OK

5. Yes, O2 sensors are critical to an EFI system.

As far as fuel pump, stick a 255 in it and forget about it. Like jrichker said, a 155 will work, but a 255 isn't really any much more upfront cost and will support much more power as you modify the car in the future.

NIKwoaC said:

As far as fuel pump, stick a 255 in it and forget about it. Like jrichker said, a 155 will work, but a 255 isn't really any much more upfront cost and will support much more power as you modify the car in the future.

Click to expand...

Did you ever consider that circulating the fuel around as a 255 lLPH pump does will cause the gas to pickup engine heat? What happens to hot gasoline? It boils off! With most of the 5.0 Mustangs having the carbon canister removed or disabled, the car stinks like gas, and the gas mileage drops since the hot fuel evaporates away into the air.

jrichker said:

Did you ever consider that circulating the fuel around as a 255 lLPH pump does will cause the gas to pickup engine heat? What happens to hot gasoline? It boils off! With most of the 5.0 Mustangs having the carbon canister removed or disabled, the car stinks like gas, and the gas mileage drops since the hot fuel evaporates away into the air.

Click to expand...

Fair enough, I'm just not one to buy stuff that ties my hands on terms of growth down the road. These cars stink like gas anyway haha.

NIKwoaC said:

1. Don't bother with changing the whole harness, just get a MAF pigtail and wire it into the computer plug (instructions included) http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ustang-50L-Mass-Air-Conversion-Wiring-Harness

You'll also need an A9L computer if your car is a stick.

2. See above.

3. Yes.

4. OK

5. Yes, O2 sensors are critical to an EFI system.

As far as fuel pump, stick a 255 in it and forget about it. Like jrichker said, a 155 will work, but a 255 isn't really any much more upfront cost and will support much more power as you modify the car in the future.

Click to expand...

a9p (auto) will work too.. I'm using one on my 5 speed.

86lxhatch said:

I'm gonna have to replace the entire harness...it would be a lie to say someone else hacked up my harness previously, but that's not the case here!!! It was me!!! I thought I was gonna go for the carb swap, but changed my mind. irate:
I think it'll be in my best interest in the future to stick with efi....for the power adders and such.

Click to expand...

Glad you came to your senses.

f8tlfiveo said:

a9p (auto) will work too.. I'm using one on my 5 speed.

Click to expand...

I know the AT computers have slightly different calibrations... I would stick to the correct computer for the job for the best results, but to each his own. I probably would be willing to experiment with an AT EEC if the price was right, but when I did my MAF swap, I wasn't able to find ANY EEC for cheap, so I went for an A9L.

50$ is what I payed for it... The difference is very minimal if any..

86lxhatch said:

Thanks for the info. I've been looking at an A9L computer, eec harness, and injector harness for $199 for an 89 mustang. Is that too much?

Click to expand...

That's not terrible, A9Ls usually sell for 100$ or more by themselves.

*Waits for someone to come in and say they got their A9L for $5 and a pack of bubblegum*

auto computers have a more aggressive timing map, get one of these. I would personally stick with the speed density, but I hate maf sensors.