Please perform all tests and post the results. Tests are to help narrow down problem source. Make sure that a known good ground is used for all voltage tests.
Be on the look out for rodent damage.
The fuses have a test point that is accessible without removing the fuse. Measure the key off voltage at each test point of fuse F1.14 (20a). Post. If voltage is not present on BOTH test points, STOP and find out why.
Measure the key on voltage at the alternator main B+ terminal. Post.
Measure the key on voltage of Red ignition circuit. This can be tapped at any COP or the radio interference capacitors. Post. If no voltage, STOP and find out why.
Remove the right front wheel and plastic fender liner to access the CCRM.
Measure the key off resistance from CCRM pin#18 (BK) back to battery negative. Post. Likely there is a ground problem if more than 5-7 Ohms.
Measure the key off voltage of the CCRM pin#11 (LB/OG). If no voltage, STOP. You failed because fuse F1.14 likely is bad.
Measure the key off voltage of the CCRM Pin#10 (BK/OG). If no voltage, STOP. Fuse F1.26 bad.
With the key on, measure the voltage at CCRM pin#12 (RD). If no voltage, STOP. You failed because fuse F2.2 likely blown.
With the key on, measure the voltage at CCRM pin#5 (DG/YE). If no voltage, STOP. REPLACE CCRM. If voltage, likely there is a wiring harness problem.
Note:
F1=BJB=Battery Junction Box-located left hand engine bay (near battery)
F2=CJB=Central Junction Box-located driver's kick panel area