I have a 2000 Gt with 100K on it now. Runs (use to) great till now. I parked it at home and went out to put it in the garage the next day and it started fine. The temp was -23 with wind chill. Then 2 weeks later went to start it and nothing, zero, no fuel. I put a bottle of heat in the gas tank thinking it had a frozen fuel line, and a gallon of fuel. I checked the #14 fuse under the hood and its fine. I checked the relay (inertia switch) in the trunk and also good. I know it has a relay in the right side inner frender well (dumb place). I used a multi meter to check for power at the relay cut off in the trunk and it has power. I believe that is between the fuel pump and the relay in the frender well and if I have power there then the pump is bad. I pulled the fuel line before it goes into the rail and nothing, thats after I hooked up my faithful MACTO fuel pressure gauge which I never use. So Im left to believe it the pump. Does anyone have any tips or clues? This is my first 4.6, I've owned many many 5 liters so this is new to me. I do run the tank low and relize it heats up the fuel pump. Next where to get one??? I will be modding to motor in summer with a supercharger and cams..etc. A supercharger normally come with one so I'm looking for cheap for now. Any help would be really cool.
fuel pump went out, need some help
- Thread starter manpowermustang
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Also do you think it could be my theat system. I read a few threads on it. I do not hear it prime. I also tried my spare key and nothing happened. What is the #34 fuse in the car? I'll check that one too. I was reading in the manuel and it says the theft light will flash for about 3 seconds then go out when the key is forward, well it does that. If I turn the key to the on position it willl flash a few times then go out. Also is it possible to get to the wire harness for the fuel pump to apply direct power from the battery? Good idea/bad idea??
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Have you tried pulling the fuel filter ?
There is an electrical connecter that plugs directly into the fuel pump. I believe the disconnect for this is next to one of the bolts for the straps that hold the fuel tank into the car. At least thats what it looks like in my shop manual. Check to see if you are geting power to that connector as it is the last disconnect before the pump. If you are geting power there and the pump isn't comming on, it may be dead.
There is an electrical connecter that plugs directly into the fuel pump. I believe the disconnect for this is next to one of the bolts for the straps that hold the fuel tank into the car. At least thats what it looks like in my shop manual. Check to see if you are geting power to that connector as it is the last disconnect before the pump. If you are geting power there and the pump isn't comming on, it may be dead.
The connector to the fuel pump is accessable. Should be about center of the tank behind the license plate.
Had this problem about two weeks ago. If you want to make sure it is really the full pump, have someone sit in the driver seat. Then while they are doing that...go to the right back tire and lay down. Once you are in position, have the driver turn the key, but not all the way. Just till the point where everything on the dash lights up. If you hear a buzzing noise coming from the back of your car (your fuel tank)...then the fuel pump is not the problem. However, if you hear nothing, then the fuel pump overheated and you need a new one. Take note...that from inside the car the driver will hear a buzzing noise coming from the engine. However, like stated above....you should hear a pretty distinctive buzzing noise coming from the back.
I bought my fuel pump from ford.....i think it cost i around 300 bucks plus tax. !! hope this helps you.
I bought my fuel pump from ford.....i think it cost i around 300 bucks plus tax. !! hope this helps you.
BennyBlown2v
New Member
Ouch, that's WAY too much! A Ford GT pump is only $100, and a Focus pump is only about $110 new (GT pump is better than focus pump) - I got two focus pumps for $75 shipped a while ago, sold them for $80 shipped I think lol...
Well I put the new fuel pump I put in was not the problem I am so pissed off at this car! Heres what I have so far.
1. #14 fuse under the hood is ok.
2. All fuses under the dash are good also.
3. Inertial switch in the trunk is not triggered. I unpluged it and it has powercoming to it. I tried to bypass the switch and nothing.
4. I have no power coming to the fuel pump, I checked at the harness.
5. When I turn the key I here the relay in the fender well clicking as if its working.
6. When the key is in the off position, the theft light flashes every few seconds and when its in the on position the theft light will flash for 2 seconds and stop. this all states the system is working find.
7. This all just happend out of the blue.
What is the deal???I never took a car to a dealer. I dont want to start now. I'm ready to run a power off my ingition to a relay and to my fuel pump!!!! Does anyone have any clue or something to look at.
1. #14 fuse under the hood is ok.
2. All fuses under the dash are good also.
3. Inertial switch in the trunk is not triggered. I unpluged it and it has powercoming to it. I tried to bypass the switch and nothing.
4. I have no power coming to the fuel pump, I checked at the harness.
5. When I turn the key I here the relay in the fender well clicking as if its working.
6. When the key is in the off position, the theft light flashes every few seconds and when its in the on position the theft light will flash for 2 seconds and stop. this all states the system is working find.
7. This all just happend out of the blue.
What is the deal???I never took a car to a dealer. I dont want to start now. I'm ready to run a power off my ingition to a relay and to my fuel pump!!!! Does anyone have any clue or something to look at.
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
This is the key. Since you have power at different points along the way and you know you have no power at this connector what you need to do is work backwards from this connector and find out at what point you are loosing the voltage. It could be as simple as a loose or corroded connector somewhere.
I've said this before and I'm sure I'll say it again. Throwing parts at a problem without diagnosing it is a waste of money. Maybe you can get your money back on that fuel pump if you don't need it. Don't install stuff unless you have a good reason to.
Ill start with working backwards. Does anyone have a order that this goes in. Is what I mean is going backwards from the fuel pump does it go to the cut off switch to relay to fuse under the hood. Im not sure on how this system works. Can anyone clue me in on groud points under the car. I do how ever have home made MIL eliminaters. Is it possible oneof these shorted out od something? Thanks for all the help.
Ok, according to a diagram I'm looking at this what I have so far. The power goes to the relay then to the fuel pump cut off switch next to the fuel pump driver mudule and to pump it self. I have power at cut off switch and no power at pump. The driver module is in between these two correct? So I'm thinking this is bad. If it is, it would throw a p1233 or p1234 code right? I will check for power coming out of it. My question though is where does the theft system cut off power? I would think at the ECU. Does anyoe have this answer?? Thanks again.
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Ok I checked the power at the fuel pump driver module. I have power at one of the wires when its unplugged and which is 12 volts and a 5 volts (ECU) power. When I plug it back in there is no power except the ecu 5 volt power wire. The 12 volt power is gone whether it is grounded out some how or the fuel pump driver module is not working. Question, where does the theft system cut it at? I'm lost on this one. Does anyone know what I can do next?
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