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fuel regulator directions??

  • Thread starter Thread starter D's 91 stang gt
  • Start date Start date Oct 27, 2006
D

D's 91 stang gt

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Jul 6, 2005
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Oct 27, 2006
#1
  • Oct 27, 2006
  • #1
I had a feul pressure regulator installed in a shop a few months ago but they never gave me any directions on how to use it so i was wondering do any of you guys can tell me how to adjust the fuel pressue with it, My car been running really rich so I figure I could back of the pressure some to correct the problem does this seem like the right answer?
 

jrichker

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#2
  • Oct 27, 2006
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You left out two things:
The make & model the the regulator.
If you have a working fuel pressure gauge.
 
D

D's 91 stang gt

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  • Oct 27, 2006
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sorry it's a kirban regulator and it doesn't have a gague
 

jrichker

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#4
  • Oct 27, 2006
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Proper adjustment isn't possible without a gauge. The Kirban regulator requires you to loosen the jamb nut and turn the adjuster with an alllen hex key. Adjustments are made at idle with the vacuum line disconnected from the regulator and plugged. Stock adjustment is 37-39 PSI.

You can purchase an all purpose test gauge from the auto parts store for about $35. Other choices are order a dedicated gauge & hose from Summit or Jegs, or build your own. Building your own is the cheapest way.

Fuel pressure gauge adapter fittings:
http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=17945NOS AN 4 to 1/16” pipe
http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=16785NOS 1/16” male pipe to 1/8” female pipe

Or
See http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessorieslist.aspx?pid=10

I made my own pressure gauge and holder. I bought the NOS or Autometer adapter that you screw into the place on the fuel line where the schrader valve goes. I ran a piece of SS (stainless steel) braided hose to a brass T fitting that I mounted on the fender well by the MAF. I made a mount bracket out of aluminum angle I got from Home depot and bolted it to the fender well. Then I mounted the brass Tee to it with some machine screws and a plate. I sandwiched the brass Tee between the aluminum angle and a flat piece of aluminum that I trimmed off the extra aluminum angle. Three screws laid out in a triangle pattern go through both pieces of aluminum to clamp the Tee in place. I used a cheap industrial gauge from MSC Direct (http://www1.mscdirect.com/ P/N 56468499). It works great and was cheaper than (less than $6) anything Summit had.

If you look through the MSC Direct catalog, you can find any type of gauge you want, including liquid filled. You only need a liquid filled gauge if you mount it directly on the engine. The liquid filling dampens out the vibrations.

You can buy the Autometer Stainless Steel braided hose for like $60. Or a local shop that makes hydraulic hose assemblies can make it for you at a cheaper price. Ordinary low pressure hydraulic hose can be used in place of the Stainless Steel braided hose, the Stainless Steel braided hose just looks nice. I got mine for $4 at a place that sells industrial and military surplus parts of all kinds. The Stainless Steel braided hose goes for about $3.60 a foot and the fittings are probably about $5-$8 each. You can make your own and save some $$$, the shops may have a setup or labor charge to fabricate the hose assembly.







http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=588569&
 
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