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Full Length Tube Frame

  • Thread starter Thread starter 86Teksid
  • Start date Start date Nov 29, 2014
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86Teksid

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Nov 29, 2014
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  • Nov 29, 2014
  • #1
I would like to have a 3"x4" 1/8 thick steel frame for my 86 fox. I was thinking round tube for the rear. Anybody else have pics or advice for this kind of project? Im not sure if Im going to buy a Hobart mig welder and have my friend weld it up and try building it in his garage. I might have a shop build it but that's as a last resort. My father designs steel structures and is a NY certified welding inspector but I'm not trying to bug him too much for help. The car has the engine bay gutted and so is the interior. It has a 4.6 cobra k-member, control arms, struts, springs and steering rack in it right now and a rebuilt 8.8 rear with all 4 rear tubular control arms and poly bushings.
 
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86Teksid

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Nov 29, 2014
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#2
  • Nov 29, 2014
  • #2
I forgot to add the floor pans are rusted out and the front frame rails are rusted pretty good but the rear quarter panels are nice with barely any rust at all. The carpet was wet and looked like the floor pans rusted from the inside out. The doors sag and I think they got rain inside the car
 
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86Teksid

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Nov 30, 2014
#3
  • Nov 30, 2014
  • #3
I'm not seeing the option to edit my previous post.. Im leaning toward 3" DOM round tube at .188 thick for the rear.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
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Nov 30, 2014
#4
  • Nov 30, 2014
  • #4
I gotta tell ya, that has got to be one of the weirdest ambitions I've seen so far yet to date.

3" Dom? What ever for?
There are complete prebent round tube kits available already for that car. Typically would be something like 1-5/8" - 1-3/4" diameter/.134 wall thickness,...... nowhere near what you are thinking.
Front frame rail rot, added to suspect door hinge bulkheads, coupled to cancerous floor boards equals a trip to the scrap yard for most cars, with one exception,........ Are you building the car into a drag car?
If so, not only are there round tube real frame rail packages out there but also the more common 2x3" rectangular pieces.
 
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86Teksid

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#5
  • Nov 30, 2014
  • #5
Its a drag car but I guess my questions are a little too much for this place. 2x3 up front, maybe on your car but thats a little too weak for my goals. Maybe you should get a bigger pic in your SIG.
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
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Nov 30, 2014
#6
  • Nov 30, 2014
  • #6
Yeah. 3" dom is definitely too much for this place. Maybe try the tractor pulling forum across the hall.
 
Reactions: A5literMan, RacEoHolic330, Shoomakan and 1 other person

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
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#7
  • Dec 1, 2014
  • #7
86Teksid said:
Its a drag car but I guess my questions are a little too much for this place. 2x3 up front, maybe on your car but thats a little too weak for my goals. Maybe you should get a bigger pic in your SIG.
Click to expand...

Wow, first you insult "this place", then talk chit on one the best fabricators here, waiting for the usual @madmike1157 reply that anyone reading this thread knows is coming



 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
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#8
  • Dec 1, 2014
  • #8
Waiting anxiously for the madmike smack down. Might as well get @84Ttop to chime in too. He knows a thing or two about chassis fabrication, but it's not like he has a sub 8-second street car or anything crazy like that.
 
Reactions: A5literMan

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
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srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#10
  • Dec 1, 2014
  • #10
so what your saying is you want to build a back half car with some ridiculously over sized tubing?
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
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Because military tank
 
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srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#12
  • Dec 1, 2014
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madspeed said:
Because military tank
Click to expand...
should weight about the same
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#13
  • Dec 1, 2014
  • #13
86Teksid said:
Its a drag car but I guess my questions are a little too much for this place. 2x3 up front, maybe on your car but thats a little too weak for my goals. Maybe you should get a bigger pic in your SIG.
Click to expand...

Nobody.
Let me say that again so it'll soak in.
NOBODY has ever built a drag car using 3" round tubing on any part of the car, except exhaust tubing, and that is what that tubing is intended for.
Unless you are building a Monster Truck.
But then you aren't building a Monster truck now are you?
Dude, do yourself a favor, and get a chassis manual.
You'll see that every drag car ON EARTH is built using a combination of either 1-5/8"-1 3/4" .125 .134 wall mild steel for roll bars.
OR
1-5/8" Chromoly where the wall thickness is allowed to drop to about .090.
OR
And 2x3" .125 wall rectangular tubing for frame rails/ SFC's for those.

Here's a little tidbit for you to gnaw on:
The current 25-1/2/3/4/5 cars that have ever been built were built to NHRA mandated rules for safety at speeds exceeding 200 MPH. Those speeds are typically coupled to 1/4 mile ET's that are in the -8 second range. In order to be able to travel at speeds above 200 MPH and do it in less that 8 seconds requires power. Power in the 2000+ HP range is typically what it takes.
And the frames and cages in those cars are all built using 1-5/8 .090 wall chromoly tubing.

Now.

I'll write this real slow so you wont miss anything.

If These guys can make that much power, and go that freakin' fast, and the NHRA only requires a weenie little 1 and 5/8 inch, oh ninety wall tube, to be considered safe............

What the hell do you need a 3" round tube for again?.......... I forgot?
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#14
  • Dec 1, 2014
  • #14
3"od .188 wall steel tubing...1.609lb/foot... good luck getting anywhere near 50/50 weight on that set up lol
 

FoxMustangLvr

I love my Pimp
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#15
  • Dec 1, 2014
  • #15
86Teksid said:
Its a drag car but I guess my questions are a little too much for this place. 2x3 up front, maybe on your car but thats a little too weak for my goals. Maybe you should get a bigger pic in your SIG.
Click to expand...

Wow....you're new here and you ask for advice and you flame the people trying to help you? How about you let us know what your HP goals are, what kind of racing your wanting to do and what setup your going to run??

Unfortunately you sound like a wannabe that thinks he's smart but is asking for help on a forum because you lack the know how of designing and building it yourself. To me it seems like you want to build a race car with a truck frame for a roll cage.

Please act accordingly.
 
Reactions: TOOLOW91

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 29, 1999
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Dec 1, 2014
#16
  • Dec 1, 2014
  • #16
If the guys going 8.xx to the 1/4 or 4.xx to the 1/8th here isnt good enough for you, or a guy who knows more about chassis fab then i have forgotten about cars period- hit up Yellowbullet with that question in the trash or be trashed forum. Those boys will help you out
 
Reactions: A5literMan and srtthis

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
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#17
  • Dec 1, 2014
  • #17
TOOLOW91 said:
If the guys going 8.xx to the 1/4 or 4.xx to the 1/8th here isnt good enough for you, or a guy who knows more about chassis fab then i have forgotten about cars period- hit up Yellowbullet with that question in the trash or be trashed forum. Those boys will help you out
Click to expand...

haha that will be EPIC!
 
Reactions: TOOLOW91 and A5literMan

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
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srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
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Dec 2, 2014
#19
  • Dec 2, 2014
  • #19
and he gone....
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
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#20
  • Dec 2, 2014
  • #20
I have no comment that will be useful here...
 
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