Funky electrical gremlins out of nowhere.

astronut1885

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2002
1,899
4
39
Assonet, MA
Seems today is not my day. I've suddenly developed some interior lighting issues in my stang, and I can't figure them out. I was working on my fuel pressure gauge and isolator, because the isolator got stuck wide open. After getting that all dealt with, I put it back together, and noticed my gauge lights weren't coming on for any gauge or the tach. I then noticed that my instrument lights were out too. To make matters worse, My headlight switch seems to be messed up, because the door chime only works when the switch is 3/4 pressed, not all the way in. Also, the fog lights and corner lights don't work unless the switch is only 3/4 in. On top of all of that, my "amp" battery light stays on in the cluster, even though my autometer says I've got plenty of juice. I've had multi-function switch problems in the past, and a friend did a little wiring mod for my foglights so I wouldn't cook another switch. Now it seems like the switch went anyway. If anyone has any clue what I need to do here, help me out. I already have another switch on order because I have a feeling that's the issue.
 
Did you check fuse 13?

The headlight switch seems to have slop in it, hence needing to goose the switch past its stop.

The regulator supplies a ground to light the battery light when it doesnt sense that the alternator is putting out juice.

Good luck.
 
It was all fuses. freaking fuses. After I took apart and checked my switch, I bought a new one at autozone, put it in, and nothing. Then I checked all my wires, and nothing. Finally I checked the fuses again, and realized there was more than one for dash illumination. Sure enough, the one I hadn't found was popped. swap it out, and boom, problem solved. new 45.00 switch for nothing, all over a .50 cent fuse. :bang: Now back to autozone to return the new switch...
 
Ok, everything is good now except for the battery light. It's still on, and I know i have good power because my voltmeter responds to RPM from 12-14v. I'm not sure if this is a computer issue that has to just realize there's not a problem anymore and then turn it's self off, or if I have to disconnect the battery to reset it or something. Everything that I can find in the car works, so I don't think there's a problem anymore.
 
As mentioned before, the alternator's regulator is what removes the ground (to make the battery light go out). I would check the regulator wiring.

Good luck.