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G-Bar rear exhaust photo

  • Thread starter Thread starter 68EFIvert
  • Start date Start date Jun 18, 2008
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
Jun 18, 2008
#1
  • Jun 18, 2008
  • #1
I know many people have been asking for photos of a rear exhaust while using a TCP G-bar suspension. I just got around to doing my tailpipes today. It had to be routed below the axle. I asked the muffler man to put flanges on the end of the muffler so that I could easily remove the tailpipes in the event I had to service/remove the rear end. It came out very clean.
 

Tony R

New Member
May 29, 2008
102
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0
Vancouver Wa
Jun 18, 2008
#2
  • Jun 18, 2008
  • #2
did you get to drive it to the shop or haul it again?
 
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
Jun 19, 2008
#3
  • Jun 19, 2008
  • #3
It still needed an alignment so it had to be hauled. When I took the photo it was on the rack at the alignment shop. I hoped to have it home today but I had a problem with the e brake that needs to be sorted out. It should be home tomorrow though. After that I will drive it like I stole it.

The only thing left is to hook up the 5 ch amp (I've already run the wires) and enclose the trunk. I don't think I will enclose the trunk right away. I am ready to enjoy the car. I will mount the amp though.
 

NasaGT

Founding Member
Sep 19, 2002
1,993
2
49
Virginia
Jun 19, 2008
#4
  • Jun 19, 2008
  • #4
Thanks for posting that pic. How much clearance do you have between the axel and the tailpipes?
 
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
Jun 19, 2008
#5
  • Jun 19, 2008
  • #5
There is about an inch and a half. To change tires I will have to jack from the axle. That will be the biggest pain about this way. I may get lucky and not have to do that since the suspension is pretty stiff. I haven't tried it yet. That is really not a big deal to me. I have directional tires and to rotate them I have to dismount and remount on the other side.
 

NasaGT

Founding Member
Sep 19, 2002
1,993
2
49
Virginia
Jun 19, 2008
#6
  • Jun 19, 2008
  • #6
Thanks! Hopefully thats enough clearance that you won't need to worry about any contact down there. Let us know your impressions after you get some time on the road.

Looks sweet by the way.
 
1

180 Out

Member
Jul 23, 2005
375
0
16
Jun 19, 2008
#7
  • Jun 19, 2008
  • #7
68EFIvert said:
There is about an inch and a half. To change tires I will have to jack from the axle. That will be the biggest pain about this way. I may get lucky and not have to do that since the suspension is pretty stiff. I haven't tried it yet. That is really not a big deal to me. I have directional tires and to rotate them I have to dismount and remount on the other side.
Click to expand...
When you jack the chassis, the springs will push the axle into full droop. Even without springs, the axle will go into full droop when you jack up the chassis.

I would consider some '65 GT350 style cables, running between the chassis and the axle, to limit droop. I think in normal driving your axle will be hitting the pipes fairly often, if there's only 1.5" travel. Time will tell. I have the opposite problem with my '65. It sits so low the axle often hits the rubber bump stops. It's pretty annoying.

I don't understand about the dismounting of tires to rotate them. Is this something new? I thought radial tires go rear to front, front to rear, with no side-to-side cross-over.
 
G

GNGREN

Member
May 5, 2005
144
3
19
Carroll Valley, PA
Jun 19, 2008
#8
  • Jun 19, 2008
  • #8
If you have a wider tire in the back than the front it's the only way to do it. And every owners manual I have looked at shows an X pattern when you rotate tires, not just front to back assuming the tires are the same width.
 
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
Jun 19, 2008
#9
  • Jun 19, 2008
  • #9
I am running 285/40 18's in the rear and 225/45 17's up front so front to back rotation is out of the question. The tires are also directional so they are only designed to be on one side of the car unless you take it off the wheel and mount it on the wheel on the other side.

In essence the shockst themselves act to limit the droop of the rear axle. It will only go down as far a the shock will let it. The only question I have right now is how much is the shock compressed now. I don't think much but as you guys point out time will tell. I will post an update after I have some miles on it as well as if I run into any problems with routing the exhaust under the axle.

I have to say there is no way I would run the exhaust under the axle if it was a leaf spring car. There would be way to much axle droop for that to work.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
38
Montrose, CA
Jun 19, 2008
#10
  • Jun 19, 2008
  • #10
Looks good to me, and that's brilliant to add flanges after the mufflers for easy tailpipe removal. I'm just now putting a g-Link in a customer car and will do the same thing if my exhaust guy can't get the pipes up and over.

I just had the exhaust run under the housing for a Heidt's 4-link, but the pipes were run low enough to allow for much axle droop. Looks a little but odd but not bad at all. The pipes are no lower than the long-tube headers up front. I'll post a pic as soon as I take one.
 

brianj5600

Active Member
Sep 19, 2003
1,964
2
39
Middle TN
Jun 19, 2008
#11
  • Jun 19, 2008
  • #11
If the car sits low, it is hardly even visible. I have ran exhaust under the rearend on a leafspring car before. The axle is high enough at ride height that it is a straighter shot than winding over the axle. I am thinking of doing it on my 67 just for flow.
 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
1
16
London (uk)
Jun 27, 2008
#12
  • Jun 27, 2008
  • #12
Is there enough space to have the pipes going above the G-bar system?
 
6

68EFIvert

Member
Jan 13, 2007
639
0
17
Camas, Washington
Jun 27, 2008
#13
  • Jun 27, 2008
  • #13
I have heard of some people being able to run the exhaust over the axle by using the Magnaflow kit. It would depend on how low you have the car set though. The lower it is the less likely it will be. Since the Magnaflow kit will not fit a convertible I had to go with a custom exhaust system.
 
S

SNAKEPILOT

New Member
Jul 8, 2005
112
0
0
Jun 27, 2008
#14
  • Jun 27, 2008
  • #14
When I was putting in my Magnaflow exhaust, I was concerned about being able to get the slip-fit joints apart. Plus I liked the clean look of a welded exhaust behind the mufflers. I used V-band clamps (commonly used in turbo applications) to make a quick disconnect for my exhaust. This way when I unhook my headers, the x-pipe just drops out. The v-band clamps don't use gaskets (my ball and socket header flanges don't either) so I never have to worry about having to having extra gaskets (or leaks). Oh yeah, they look cool too.



 

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Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jun 29, 2008
#15
  • Jun 29, 2008
  • #15
Those vband clamps are getting popular these days but the cost adds up quick. They sure are nice tho.
 

70vert

New Member
Dec 31, 2004
722
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Jun 29, 2008
#16
  • Jun 29, 2008
  • #16
That looks really good. I would consider something like it for my EvM 3-Link, but it would probably have to go under the cradle, bringing it pretty low to the ground and visible from the side. I might be able to send it over the lowest bar in the cradle that is next to the stabar, but it's doubtful. Nice work!
 
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