G-Tech question..
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MT1083
New Member
DeadLurker
Daily Driven
It's an interesting concept, but it is not a mechanical test...it is based on an accelerometor and a gyroscope, both of which are incredibly sensitive pieces of instrumentation that can be VERY easily thrown out of calibration. I'm sure the numbers that they give are in the ball-park, but I wouldn't waste $275 on it...maybe it would be a good buy if you got a bunch of friends together that wanted to chip in on it and you could all use it.
MT1083
New Member
I find it hard to believe that it would be precise. I'm not planning on getting it, but I just wonder if anyone had tested it on a track and compared it to your actual times.
DeadLurker
Daily Driven
MT1083 said:
I see no point to it though. If you run a good time with it people will say BS and if you run a bad time people will say BS and that it's not working right.
Plus regardless of what you run you really can't claim that is what your car does. I think it's a waste of money. Just go to the track...pay the $7-30 dollars to race at a Test and tune and find out your actually times.
I have one and I had it hooked up last time I went to the track. To make a long story short, it was pretty accurate. The closest it was to my actual track time is as follows... G-tech 13.77@105MPH. vs. 13.89@ 103MPH track time. One run was way off though, G-tech 13.23@111 MPH [ I wish ] vs. 14.05@101 MPH actual. I had a bad launch on that one.
Go HoTO!
New Member
I have one. It's lots of fun. But I actually have a Vector FX. $100 at Circuit City.
It is fun to play with and pretty accurate. Great way to practice 60 ft times in a parkling lot. It will give you lots of data such as:
60 foot
1/8
1/4
trap speed
330 ft
0-60 mph etc...
G's in corners, g's going forward, and braking g's. It can also calculate HP. But you get a net HP. This is what is left over after transmission, tire spin, and wind drag. It is pretty useless, though.
I measured my max g's in each gear before and after 4.10's. Pretty interesting results.
Nothing beats the track, but it has it's uses.
It is fun to play with and pretty accurate. Great way to practice 60 ft times in a parkling lot. It will give you lots of data such as:
60 foot
1/8
1/4
trap speed
330 ft
0-60 mph etc...
G's in corners, g's going forward, and braking g's. It can also calculate HP. But you get a net HP. This is what is left over after transmission, tire spin, and wind drag. It is pretty useless, though.
I measured my max g's in each gear before and after 4.10's. Pretty interesting results.
Nothing beats the track, but it has it's uses.
JonJon
Founding Member
You people forget 1 important thing. User error. That's the biggest problem with Gtech numbers, people screw up the calibration or the driving somehow.
The Gtech is consistant and good to see how a mod affected you but if you don't do it right, it's the same thing as going to the drag strip with a mod change and driving differently.
1) You have to calibrate it correctly. The old Gtech Pro (non competition) was hard as crap to calibrate correctly.
2) The Gtech Pro Competition requires your car's weight to be inputted, I doubt most people get it weighed. They probably just guess a weight.
3) Wheel spin confuses the Gtech. You have to drive WOT without wheel spin for the best reading. So it takes practice to drive as fast as you can without wheel spin.
4) If you don't drive on a perfectly flat surface, it's going to affect readings. I think the Gtech manual says to do 8 runs, 4 runs in each direction. Throw out the outliers than average the rest. THEN you get your reading. But, who has a road that they can do 8 back to back runs, in opposite directions to get an accurate reading?
I took mine the Competition model to the track, but the weigh station wasn't open that night
So I didn't get the right weight inputted. I was spinning a lot anyways.
I like the Gtech Pro Competition model because it logs when I shift (RPMs) and it has a shift light built in.
The Gtech is consistant and good to see how a mod affected you but if you don't do it right, it's the same thing as going to the drag strip with a mod change and driving differently.
1) You have to calibrate it correctly. The old Gtech Pro (non competition) was hard as crap to calibrate correctly.
2) The Gtech Pro Competition requires your car's weight to be inputted, I doubt most people get it weighed. They probably just guess a weight.
3) Wheel spin confuses the Gtech. You have to drive WOT without wheel spin for the best reading. So it takes practice to drive as fast as you can without wheel spin.
4) If you don't drive on a perfectly flat surface, it's going to affect readings. I think the Gtech manual says to do 8 runs, 4 runs in each direction. Throw out the outliers than average the rest. THEN you get your reading. But, who has a road that they can do 8 back to back runs, in opposite directions to get an accurate reading?
I took mine the Competition model to the track, but the weigh station wasn't open that night
So I didn't get the right weight inputted. I was spinning a lot anyways. I like the Gtech Pro Competition model because it logs when I shift (RPMs) and it has a shift light built in.
GoldnGT
Founding Member
JonJon has it right. I have one.. you have to be calibrated correctly. I only paid 200 for mine from a friend. I like it when i'm testing one mod against another PERSONALLY.. but it will NOT make up for track time and Dyno time. Your times will not be track accurate..
But if you are running under the same conditions every time, when you change a mod you can tell if it positively or negatively affects your car...
Mike
But if you are running under the same conditions every time, when you change a mod you can tell if it positively or negatively affects your car...
Mike
