Gauge Pod / Electronics Problem!!!

Oh Lord, please help me now. Of all times.

Today I was installing some white face gauges, and ran into more than enough problems.

After taking the gauge pod out, putting the gauges on, and adjusting the needles as much as possible, we put it back in, and everything is off. So while attemping to take it out again, and reset the needles, something bad happened. I believe the ignition switch broke somehow.

Anyway, the cars electronics stay on, no matter what, and my key has no effect on it whatsoever. I can't start the car, and I can't turn it off... I can take the key out, and use every bit of electronics.

It feels like it's skipping a click somewhere, in between the off and start position, so we took the ignition switch out, and the cars electronics still stay on. So we're getting a new one right now.

Has anybody ran into this problem before? It sucks, because I have to be to work in a half hour, and my car is stuck, and there's nothing we can do about it.

I was hoping somebody would have a clue as to what's going on, because I can't figure it out. Thanks for any help!

Ok. Most of the interior around the steering column is broken down, and we found that the lock cylinder is apparently spring loaded, and moves a switch to the left, or right, depending on which way you turn the key.

The part that moves the lever/switch, isn't working correctly, but we don't see a way to get into the column any further. I can now start the car by moving that switch manually, (talk about being rigged), and it'll have to do for now.

Have any ideas to help me out? I really don't want to pay $200 to $300 for someone to fix this for me. Thanks!

Just an update... Almost a year later, I'm still starting my car by using the ignition switch. It's a pain in the ass.

Anybody have any ideas on how to fix it, or if putting in a new steering column would be easier?

Is there something that goes over the switch itself, so that when you turn the key down, it pulls the switch away?

Cause the last time I fixed the switch back up, and put my key in, it would turn forward a bit with some resistance like it should, and then it would turn freely, and back, without moving the switch...

I looked all in the Haynes manual, and it never said one thing about it...