Gauges

raleighstang65 · Jun 12, 2007

In an attempt to troubleshoot/fix a non-working fuel gauge over the weekend I removed the instrument panel. Long story short, none of the gauges are working now! Temp gauge worked fine before. Could it be the wiring harness is so old that just messing with it a little made it crap out? Only thing I did was unplug everything from the back of the panel and plug it back in after I put a new fuel gauge in. Any suggestions before I pull it all back out to try to see whats going on? Oh, and for the fuel gauge, I replaced the sending unit a while back, still didn't work. Used a test light to see if the sending unit was getting anything and it lit up... so I figured it must be the gauge. Still doesn't work...

Rusty67 · Jun 12, 2007

Check your fuses. If you didn't disconnect the battery you might have blown one.

raleighstang65 · Jun 12, 2007

I did disconnect the battery. Are there fuses for the instrument panel? I thought I read somewhere that the fuel gauge didn't have a fuse.

iskwezm · Jun 12, 2007

make sure the fuel gauge was centered in the housing,if not it will short out and fry the IVR. I didnt center mine and have been chacing a problem with the fuel gauge now for 2 years(really dont mess with it that often) The cluster gets grounded to the dash when its screwed in and the IVR will step down the voltage from 12V to a pulsing 5/6 volts.So cherck for power at the IVR and then go from there.

raleighstang65 · Jun 12, 2007

When you say centered in the housing, how exact does it have to be? Sorry for asking a dumb question but what is the IVR and where can I find it? I'm new to this but am learning quick. Like this past weekend I learned that I shouldn't have messed with the instrument panel and that a broken fuel gauge wasn't so bad!

geostang351 · Jun 12, 2007

It's the brown rectangular part attached to the back of the large, right gauge. The gauges can;t handle the higher voltage of 12V so this "device" brings down the voltage to a useable level.

iskwezm · Jun 12, 2007

if you noticed when you pulled the gauge,there should have been some carboard "washers" to insulate the nuts from grounding on the housing,also the holes where the gauge studs go through are slotted,they need to be right in the middle. Also smell the Instrument Voltage Regultor,see if it smells burnt.

raleighstang65 · Jun 12, 2007

Thanks for all the tips. I remember that when I pulled the contacts off the IVR they weren't easy to get off. I won't be able to pull it back out until this weekend. If it does smell burnt, is it something that can be replaced or do I have to get an entire new instrument panel? I don't remember how it was attatched to the back of the panel.

iskwezm · Jun 12, 2007

raleighstang65 said:
Thanks for all the tips. I remember that when I pulled the contacts off the IVR they weren't easy to get off. I won't be able to pull it back out until this weekend. If it does smell burnt, is it something that can be replaced or do I have to get an entire new instrument panel? I don't remember how it was attatched to the back of the panel.

The IVR is about 40 bucks and made in Taiwan or China, and its also a piece of crap. I bought one and the contact broke right off as soon as ity came out of the box.You can make one from a voltage regulator from radio shack for about 2 bucks.Its attatched with a1/4" or 9"32 bolt to the housing like in the photo above.

iskwezm · Jun 12, 2007

raleighstang65 said:
Thanks for all the tips. I remember that when I pulled the contacts off the IVR they weren't easy to get off. I won't be able to pull it back out until this weekend. If it does smell burnt, is it something that can be replaced or do I have to get an entire new instrument panel? I don't remember how it was attatched to the back of the panel.

The IVR is about 40 bucks and made in Taiwan or China, and its also a piece of crap. I bought one and the contact broke right off as soon as ity came out of the box.You can make one from a voltage regulator from radio shack for about 2 bucks.Its attatched with a1/4" or 9"32 bolt to the housing like in the photo above.

raleighstang65 · Jun 13, 2007

So if I go the Radio Shack route, I would look for a voltage regulator that goes from 12v down to 5v? I found the replacement IVR in NPD's catalog and yeah it's $50.

Iamdiffrnt · Jun 13, 2007

I think this is what you will be looking for

http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...oltage&kw=regulator+voltage&parentPage=search

If you have to order it, you may be able to find it cheaper somewhere else.

Tim65GT · Jun 13, 2007

here is just one site (there are a few) with details on the solid state IVR:

http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/ivr/improved_design_solid_state_IVR.htm

raleighstang65 · Jun 13, 2007

Thanks a bunch! Will let you all know how it works out.

automart · Jul 6, 2007

This IVR, are they used on a 70 Mach I. My fuel gauge does not go above 1/4 tank when full, the temp gauge is not working at all. I replaced the sending unit in the tank today, that wasn't it. Maybe the IVR is my problem if I have one.

Thanks

Tim65GT · Jul 7, 2007

Jeez $50

View attachment 378061

MU shows it is for 69-73.

I'd try to figure out the Radio SHack LM317 regulator for about $3

Gauges

raleighstang65

Member

Rusty67

raleighstang65

Member

iskwezm

raleighstang65

Member

geostang351

Member

iskwezm

raleighstang65

Member

iskwezm

iskwezm

raleighstang65

Member

Iamdiffrnt

Member

Tim65GT

Active Member

raleighstang65

Member

automart

Member

Tim65GT

Active Member

Similar threads

Gauges

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Active Member

Member

Member

Active Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency