Getting no spark

[The Trooper]

Hi guys,

I recently got a 1965 c-code coupe. The 289 block has previously been replaced with a 1985 roller 302 block. Anyway, i'm trying to get the engine started but no luck. I've got fuel going up to the carb, got spark going from the coil to the dist (even though it seems weak) but no spark going out of the dist to the plugs.

It's got a new coil, dist cap/rotor, points/condenser, plugs and wiring. I thought you might have some ideas to throw around? I know it's probably something pretty simple i'm overlooking but I can't seem to see what.

Thanks in advance and i'm sure we'll speak again as I continue restoring my coupe.

 

[stephen4785]

Do you have a ballast resistor on it. I knoe my car had a resistance wire under the dash and a ballast resistor which knocked my voltage down to 6 volts at the distributor.Try checking the rotor for any holes melted in it, and check your points to see if there adjusted right. If youve got some extra cash Id opt for the Pertronix conversion kit and do away with the condensor and points. Hope this helps

 

[JB66]

Is this 85 motor an HO from a mustang? If so, it has a different firing order. To get spark at the plugs fast and track down the problem, jumper the positive side of the coil to the + side of the battery. MAKE SURE YOUR E-BRAKE IS ON WITH TRANNY IN NEUTRAL OR PARK BEFORE STARTING!

 

[one2gamble]

is it turning over at all or is it just dead?

 

[The Trooper]

I'll try checking out the resistance wire tonight to see if it hasn't changed value with time. I'll also readjust points and if it doesn't work out i'll try jumping the full 12v to the coil.

It seems to be a 302 HO from a mustang but to be on the safe side I tried both firing orders before finding out I really had no spark at all. The engine does turn over but never actually starts.

Keep the ideas coming and thank you for your time!

 

[WORTH]

ok, take the "
+" off the coil and check it for voltage, it should be 9-12. Put a test light on the "-" terminal on the coil and crank the engine, it should pulse and flash the test light. If it doesn't you have a problem in the distributor.

pull the cap off and put the test light on the arm of the points that followes the distributor cam. when the points are open you should have a light with the key on, turn the engine by hand to close the points, the light should go out. if it stays on, the points are just dirty and not making contact. you can clean them with a clean piece of paper.

 

[JB66]

1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 is your correct firing order anyway for when you get it 'sparked.'

 

[HistoricMustang]

Engine grounded?

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

[The Trooper]

Thanks to everyone who helped! Historic got it with the shortest post in the bunch. hehe. It was a bad engine ground causing my spark problems. Now i've got spark and fuel but it still won't start. I guess it's time to check timing and then if that doesn't work I guess it'll be time to rebuild the carb. Not much else left to check apart from that.

 

[HistoricMustang]

A bad ground will drive you nuts with all types of problems. I actually have two on my engine. The standard one off the intake to the firewall (I did use a heavier ground wire) and I also use welding wire cable from the front of the block to the frame rail. This cable is about 1/2" thick and provides a very good ground!

Everyone should make a check list for your ride and go through that list on a monthly basis. The list should include everything from the above mentioned ground wire to header bolts. If you do track time (road race or quarter mile)go through the list before each event. Nothing worst than getting to the track or taking the girlfriend or wife (not at the same time) out for a burger and the car not work.

I have a list and will try to get it up at the site in the next day or two. Good budget stuff.

Happy Motoring,

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com