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Gillis Valve

  • Thread starter Thread starter SVOconvLX85
  • Start date Start date May 25, 2004
S

SVOconvLX85

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Mar 16, 2004
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Vegas, for a while...
May 25, 2004
#1
  • May 25, 2004
  • #1
I have a couple of questions. First, is the Gillis Boost Valve? What would that replace or eliminate on my SVO. Would it replace the Boost control solenoid? That’s the little cylinder looking thing with two wires coming out of it on my inner fender well. If it did replace that, what would I do with the other end of the wires coming out of the Motorcraft box? (The box that the boost solenoid wires in to.) What about that solenoid that they sell on the Gillis website? Which one should I get and is it worth it?

My second question is about the vacuum lines from my turbo. I came across a turbo coupe at the junkyard and it had some vacuum lines on it from the intercooler (for the boost gauge). It went into a one-way valve and then into a “T” fitting and then to the boost gauge. The other outlet of the “T” fitting went to the vacuum block. Are that valve and the “T” fitting necessary? I hooked it up to my car and it seems like it ran a little better but that could be an illusion.
Thanks and sorry so long
 
P

Pro-Hawk

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Dec 4, 2003
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West Texas
May 25, 2004
#2
  • May 25, 2004
  • #2
SVOconvLX85 said:
I have a couple of questions. First, is the Gillis Boost Valve? What would that replace or eliminate on my SVO. Would it replace the Boost control solenoid? That’s the little cylinder looking thing with two wires coming out of it on my inner fender well. If it did replace that, what would I do with the other end of the wires coming out of the Motorcraft box? (The box that the boost solenoid wires in to.) What about that solenoid that they sell on the Gillis website? Which one should I get and is it worth it?

My second question is about the vacuum lines from my turbo. I came across a turbo coupe at the junkyard and it had some vacuum lines on it from the intercooler (for the boost gauge). It went into a one-way valve and then into a “T” fitting and then to the boost gauge. The other outlet of the “T” fitting went to the vacuum block. Are that valve and the “T” fitting necessary? I hooked it up to my car and it seems like it ran a little better but that could be an illusion.
Thanks and sorry so long
Click to expand...

Umm this seems more like a 6 questions to me That maybe because I'm either to ADD or don't know enough...maybe both

:Gillis:

This would replace the stock boost valve. As for those wires mine still has them hooked up and I pray I don't need them since my is regged up A run down my car has the manual boost valve but those wires hooked up I would say leave'em alone my self

:IC:

Plug up all the vaccum lines on the TC's IC and hook it up to the SVO. That is just what the SVOCA guys tells me anyways.
 
1

140cilx

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Sep 7, 2001
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May 26, 2004
#3
  • May 26, 2004
  • #3
Install the Gillis valve, remove the BCS and the box that say's Motorcraft on it that controls the BCS.

Do what Prohawk said about the lines off the intercooler, just plug them.

I'd feed the Gillis valve a line from off the vacuum tree. This will eliminate surging and boost spikes and give you the smoothest most accurate boost.
 
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Pro-Hawk

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May 26, 2004
#4
  • May 26, 2004
  • #4
140cilx said:
Install the Gillis valve, remove the BCS and the box that say's Motorcraft on it that controls the BCS.

Do what Prohawk said about the lines off the intercooler, just plug them.

I'd feed the Gillis valve a line from off the vacuum tree. This will eliminate surging and boost spikes and give you the smoothest most accurate boost.
Click to expand...

:BOS:
So I can remove that box the boost controller plugs into? Thats great you should see how that things is pluged up Look at my site where I had to fix my IAC connector and the BCS was done the same way.

:Gillis:
Now what ends plug in where? I got a Gillis also that I'm going to use once I get her back together.
 
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140cilx

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May 26, 2004
#5
  • May 26, 2004
  • #5
:Gillis: Now what ends plug in where? I got a Gillis also that I'm going to use once I get her back together.
Click to expand...

The instructions are pretty simple, one end goes to the wastegate diaphram, one end to the vacuum tree. Bottom line, opposite the adjusting screw that goes to the vacuum tree, right angle to the diaphram. http://www.boostvalve.com/tech/IC_install.html
 
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Pro-Hawk

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#6
  • May 26, 2004
  • #6
140cilx said:
The instructions are pretty simple, one end goes to the wastegate diaphram, one end to the vacuum tree. Bottom line, opposite the adjusting screw that goes to the vacuum tree, right angle to the diaphram. http://www.boostvalve.com/tech/IC_install.html
Click to expand...

So does it matter what vaccum line it plugs into the vaccum tree it makes sense that it don't but you never know? If my tree is full dod I just use a "T" right? Sorry I haven't even opened my Gillis to check this out.
 
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140cilx

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May 26, 2004
#7
  • May 26, 2004
  • #7
No it doesn't matter, t is fine, just make sure there's no kinks in it!
 
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Pro-Hawk

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May 26, 2004
#8
  • May 26, 2004
  • #8
140cilx said:
No it doesn't matter, t is fine, just make sure there's no kinks in it!
Click to expand...

Thanks.
 
S

SVOconvLX85

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Mar 16, 2004
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May 26, 2004
#9
  • May 26, 2004
  • #9
So what do I do with the ports from the turbo to the BCS. Just plug them? I can just simply remove the Motorcraft box too? Where should I connect my boost vacuum line for the gauge?
 
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Pro-Hawk

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May 26, 2004
#10
  • May 26, 2004
  • #10
SVOconvLX85 said:
So what do I do with the ports from the turbo to the BCS. Just plug them? I can just simply remove the Motorcraft box too? Where should I connect my boost vacuum line for the gauge?
Click to expand...

That link 140cilx posted on boost valve a few post back has a diagram on hooking it up and what ports to plug. (Its also on gillis's site). I think one end goes to the tree and the other goes to the Accuator. The rest is capped off but check the site out first

I would put a "T" on where the stock gauge goes and run both. The stock one plugs into the fourth port on the vaccum tree moving from drivers side to pasg side. ( I think thats right) If memory servers me right on my car the first port is caped off and then three on the side of it going from drivers to psg side. My MotorCraft box is still on my car with the BCS but I may take mine to place the Gillis there.
 
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SVOconvLX85

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May 26, 2004
#11
  • May 26, 2004
  • #11
Does anyone else's boost gauge not show anything when revved at idle. Just curious?
 

mr_woodster

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Jul 28, 2003
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May 27, 2004
#12
  • May 27, 2004
  • #12
SVOconvLX85 said:
Does anyone else's boost gauge not show anything when revved at idle. Just curious?
Click to expand...
thats affiramative...you dont build boost when at idle ..or "free reving" the motor, the load is what cuases the spool=boost
 
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Pro-Hawk

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May 27, 2004
#13
  • May 27, 2004
  • #13
mr_woodster said:
thats affiramative...you dont build boost when at idle ..or "free reving" the motor, the load is what cuases the spool=boost
Click to expand...

I was wondering the same thing and figured it was a load deal but didn't want to say anything and be missleading Now is this just a 2.3T deal are on all Turbo cars? The reason is last weekend there was a guy with a SRT-4 complaining about not making full boost. So he was checking all is IC plumbing etc. Then he gets in the car and revs the motor to see if helped his boost in which he says it didn't. Now I didn't here the turbo winded up but he said it was making 9 psi of boost It sounded weird to me since I could never do this with my SVO but I figured its some new technology etc on the SRT-4.
 
A

a351Must2

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Mar 12, 1999
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May 27, 2004
#14
  • May 27, 2004
  • #14
Pro-Hawk said:
I was wondering the same thing and figured it was a load deal but didn't want to say anything and be missleading Now is this just a 2.3T deal are on all Turbo cars? The reason is last weekend there was a guy with a SRT-4 complaining about not making full boost. So he was checking all is IC plumbing etc. Then he gets in the car and revs the motor to see if helped his boost in which he says it didn't. Now I didn't here the turbo winded up but he said it was making 9 psi of boost It sounded weird to me since I could never do this with my SVO but I figured its some new technology etc on the SRT-4.
Click to expand...

On a 2.3L, if you build boost by free revving, something is wrong...usually timing is retarded. It can build boost, but it has to be spun past 5K rpm and doesn't prove anything.

The imports seem to be different...my Eclipse will build 12psi on a free rev to 4500rpm. It's also got a turbo that will flow more than a T03 and will fully spool at ~2500rpm with only a 2.0L running it.
 

jman_b13

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Jul 27, 2000
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May 27, 2004
#15
  • May 27, 2004
  • #15
you can build boost in neutral, if you get the rpms up over 3000ish and just pump the gas in and out revving it, it will get a few lbs of boost.
 
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Pro-Hawk

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May 27, 2004
#16
  • May 27, 2004
  • #16
jman_b13 said:
you can build boost in neutral, if you get the rpms up over 3000ish and just pump the gas in and out revving it, it will get a few lbs of boost.
Click to expand...

I rather not try it
 
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