my motor seems to be kinda tired 169k on clock,so anyway a guy has one from a 2000 on C/L it is in a storage unit that doesnt have any 110 outlet,so bringing a compressor to allow me to run a leakdown is out,but I at least want to run a compression test.I guess I could bring a battery with me to turn the motor over.so my question is where would I put the leads of the jumper cables in order to rotate the motor? just one on the block somewhere and the hot on the starter?
going to look at at used 4.6 from craigslist
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My 97 has 169k and runs great. I got my best time at the track when the engine had over 150k miles and given good weather, I could still equal or beat that time. Unless you have a real mechanical problem, I doubt your engine is that tired.
You'll probbaly find it difficult to attach the starter unless the transmission is still attached.
Also, you can get funny results on a compression test on a cold engine. It will look pretty poor because the oil has drained down and the clearances are wider. Not really that useful to do either test in my opinion. If I were selling the engine, I wouldn't allow this to be done, but that's just me.
You'll probbaly find it difficult to attach the starter unless the transmission is still attached.
Also, you can get funny results on a compression test on a cold engine. It will look pretty poor because the oil has drained down and the clearances are wider. Not really that useful to do either test in my opinion. If I were selling the engine, I wouldn't allow this to be done, but that's just me.
fast97gt
Active Member
Wow only 196k and its week, dude my npi has over 220k stock with bolt ons only and 4.10s and still runs 9 flat in the 1/8, but smokes like a freight train on taje off at the stop light due to the junk valve stem seals, dude if it aint smokin, or knocking I wouldn't worrie bout it, unless the engine has cheap price tag
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wmburns
SN Certified Technician
You do realize that the 2000 GT has a Windsor motor and your 96 has a Romeo? Factor in some additional $$ for the Romeo/Windsor swap.
If it were me, I would look for a 2001+ Romeo.
If it were me, I would look for a 2001+ Romeo.
fast97gt
Active Member
quoting wmburns, well as long as the 2000 is complete from oil pan to intake, and pulleys to flywheel you wont hava any problems for the swap
well what would you guys do if you needed a motor,only buy one that I could hear run(still in car)
just build my short block? (I assume that would cost a lot more) there doesnt seem to be anything mechanically wrong with my existing motor other than leakdown in the 35-40% range although I ran the leakdown on my 96 neon with 70 k on clock and it was like 35-37%.
could it be that the harborfreight tester is out of calibration? testing was done with cylinders at TDC on comp stroke.
just build my short block? (I assume that would cost a lot more) there doesnt seem to be anything mechanically wrong with my existing motor other than leakdown in the 35-40% range although I ran the leakdown on my 96 neon with 70 k on clock and it was like 35-37%.
could it be that the harborfreight tester is out of calibration? testing was done with cylinders at TDC on comp stroke.
BurningRubber
10 Year Member
- Dec 6, 2004
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Do you know the compression on your current motor?
If you aren't going to run boost or nitrous through it, just let it ride unless the compression is suffering.
I'm about to START spraying my GT with 141,xxx on the clock... haha.
If you aren't going to run boost or nitrous through it, just let it ride unless the compression is suffering.
I'm about to START spraying my GT with 141,xxx on the clock... haha.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
IMO, if you want meaningful advice some understanding of your goals and budget is needed.
Are you trying to do a "save $$" re-build? Are you trying to do as much of the work yourself or are does engine work not your cup of tea?
Are you trying to do a simple as possible swap or would you welcome the challenge to do something "harder"?
Do you have the in's with a machine shop? Do you trust their work?
How would you feel if something happened and the motor had to be pulled and re-done?
Are you looking for a PI motor or Non-PI motor? Low mileage or not really as important?
IMO, all of these questions factor into a decision.
For example. Rebuild your own motor. If you piece out the work and put it together yourself, there is no warranty on the motor itself. What if something went wrong? Could you deal with it? In terms of saving $$, this is the cheapest. Especially if you have confidence in what is wrong with the original motor.
If on the other hand, you want a plug and play option with a warranty, an option is to have your motor re-manufactured. Expect to pay 2000-2500. For that you will get a zero mile motor with a warranty.
Then there is the salvage yard route. This opens up a number of possibilities from an exact plug/play on up.
I can tell you that certain year combinations are easier/cheaper to find in the salvage chain than others. The costs can vary wildly. As the net is widened on what donor motor is acceptable, this brings a new set of considerations.
For example, the 2000 Windsor will need new flywheel/pressure plate (for starters). There are other differences that each have their own set of possible “head aches”. A later model Romeo will have a slightly different set of considerations.
When the motor went out in my 2000 GT, I could not find an affordable low mileage Windsor. The available Windsors were going for 1200+ with 150K miles. Too expensive and too many miles for me.
I ended up going with a 38K 2004 Romeo from a Crown Vic for $830. But, much of the money saved on the motor ended up going back into supporting parts (flywheel, clutch, PVC lines, gaskets, and such).
Lesson learned. I didn’t save as much money as planned. In the end, I still got a low mileage motor for a fair price.
I still stand by my previous recommendation. If the costs of the motor are equal, a PI Romeo is going to cheaper over a PI Windsor for the application being discussed (swap into a 1996).
Further, I think it will be easier to find low mileage Romeo blocks for the simple reason there are so many more of them out there.
Now having said that, you could always come across a “deal” that changes the equation.
One recommendation. Check the prices from car-part.com so that you know your local market. This will help you to determine if it really is a good buy.
Suggest that you make a list of the things that are important to you (money, mileage, warranty, used/new, risk, level of effort, variance from stock or anything else you can think of). Rank the items in order of importance. Be honest. For example, you can not rate money as #1 and then go look at a forged racing piece.
I hope this helps.
Are you trying to do a "save $$" re-build? Are you trying to do as much of the work yourself or are does engine work not your cup of tea?
Are you trying to do a simple as possible swap or would you welcome the challenge to do something "harder"?
Do you have the in's with a machine shop? Do you trust their work?
How would you feel if something happened and the motor had to be pulled and re-done?
Are you looking for a PI motor or Non-PI motor? Low mileage or not really as important?
IMO, all of these questions factor into a decision.
For example. Rebuild your own motor. If you piece out the work and put it together yourself, there is no warranty on the motor itself. What if something went wrong? Could you deal with it? In terms of saving $$, this is the cheapest. Especially if you have confidence in what is wrong with the original motor.
If on the other hand, you want a plug and play option with a warranty, an option is to have your motor re-manufactured. Expect to pay 2000-2500. For that you will get a zero mile motor with a warranty.
Then there is the salvage yard route. This opens up a number of possibilities from an exact plug/play on up.
I can tell you that certain year combinations are easier/cheaper to find in the salvage chain than others. The costs can vary wildly. As the net is widened on what donor motor is acceptable, this brings a new set of considerations.
For example, the 2000 Windsor will need new flywheel/pressure plate (for starters). There are other differences that each have their own set of possible “head aches”. A later model Romeo will have a slightly different set of considerations.
When the motor went out in my 2000 GT, I could not find an affordable low mileage Windsor. The available Windsors were going for 1200+ with 150K miles. Too expensive and too many miles for me.
I ended up going with a 38K 2004 Romeo from a Crown Vic for $830. But, much of the money saved on the motor ended up going back into supporting parts (flywheel, clutch, PVC lines, gaskets, and such).
Lesson learned. I didn’t save as much money as planned. In the end, I still got a low mileage motor for a fair price.
I still stand by my previous recommendation. If the costs of the motor are equal, a PI Romeo is going to cheaper over a PI Windsor for the application being discussed (swap into a 1996).
Further, I think it will be easier to find low mileage Romeo blocks for the simple reason there are so many more of them out there.
Now having said that, you could always come across a “deal” that changes the equation.
One recommendation. Check the prices from car-part.com so that you know your local market. This will help you to determine if it really is a good buy.
Suggest that you make a list of the things that are important to you (money, mileage, warranty, used/new, risk, level of effort, variance from stock or anything else you can think of). Rank the items in order of importance. Be honest. For example, you can not rate money as #1 and then go look at a forged racing piece.
I hope this helps.
fast97gt
Active Member
i would think that a compression test will give you better results, me i rely on a leak down test if i were run boost or added hp
twogts4us
15 Year Member
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