Got a dremel, want to try my hand at polishing, tips please!

N8Miller

I need NOS....make it 2 of the big ones
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Jul 26, 2000
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Kingston, PA, USA
i got a dremel for Xmas, and thought it would be kind of cool to try my hand at polishing some of the engine stuff. i would of course start wtih my factory t-body and spacer, things like that, but i am looking for tips on how to polish stuff.... possibly a website for help or tips from Monsoon or someone like that.

Monsoon: i would like to just buy stuff off you, but want to try to save a few bucks... would be worth the time or just send ya the stuff? :shrug:
 
I think that's me? :p Shoot me a PM with what you're interested in. Or since you've got the bug, give it a shot and see how you can do. The hardest part is finding a technique.

I'd actually recommend not using the Dremel, it'd be tough to sand everything down evenly. It can come in handy for tight spots on a MAF, TB, etc., but for the most part you'd want a flat surface like a sanding block or a jitter palm sander for the sanding portion of it.

For the actual polishing you're again better off with something else. This being buffing wheels and compounds, spun either on a buffing wheel or a fast hand drill. The surface on the polishing pads for Dremels is just so small that it'd take forever to get anywhere. That again would be good for tight spots a normal buff can't get into. Another option would be a mushroom buff or something similar.

I don't have my tutorial up anymore but Almost Stock has one. Wait for him to get in here, or do a search and you'll be able to find it quick. Basically sand with a grit low enough to start flattening out the piece (but not too high that it doesn't do the trick, and not so low that it gives you huge scratches and more work to do) and move up from there. Take out any scratches you put in with the next level of sandpaper. For corners and such you can use tapered sanding rolls or a product called "Cratex" that works quickly and brings you near the end of the sanding process.

After it's all flat and smooth I like to use nylon brush wheels. A red followed by a blue, they'll take out any light scratches you have left over. Not required but I like it. It'll be reflective and a little cloudy by this point (probably after the sanding too depending how high you go) and just a little shiny.

After that, you can buff with emery compound on a ventilated flap wheel or tripoli on a spiral sewn wheel, or do emery and then tripoli. Sometimes I find emery works better for buff-cutting, sometimes I find tripoli is better, and sometimes I find emery first and tripoli second works best. Go figure. By now you should have a real shiny piece and nearly like a mirror.

Finally use white rouge on a loose sewn wheel will bring out the real shine and mirror clarity.

That help?
 
I talk too much because I type 130WPM :p It doesn't take me long.

It's a rougher grit so that should be why (not being a smartass, lol) but sometimes tripoli just does better. No idea why. And I've even buffed half of a piece with tripoli and the other with emery to test my theories and sure enough the trip had equal cutting results but with a shinier finish :shrug: Doesn't happen all the time though; as sometimes tripoli alone isn't gritty enough to handle the finish I ended up with from sanding.

pretty much right there is what I meant by "the hardest part is finding technique" because even by the books you run into goofiness like that. Then there's force of the wheel on the piece, speed, amount of compound applied, and so on. That's to be learned as ya go too obviously. Took me a while.
 
I talk too much because I type 130WPM :p It doesn't take me long.

It's a rougher grit so that should be why (not being a smartass, lol) but sometimes tripoli just does better. No idea why. And I've even buffed half of a piece with tripoli and the other with emery to test my theories and sure enough the trip had equal cutting results but with a shinier finish :shrug: Doesn't happen all the time though; as sometimes tripoli alone isn't gritty enough to handle the finish I ended up with from sanding.

pretty much right there is what I meant by "the hardest part is finding technique" because even by the books you run into goofiness like that. Then there's force of the wheel on the piece, speed, amount of compound applied, and so on. That's to be learned as ya go too obviously. Took me a while.

I agree completely with everything Mansonozz (Dave) said except for one thing.

In my case ……………I only type 13 WPM on a good day, versus Dave’s 130 WPM everyday.:D

I’m in the process right now of buffing and polishing this upper and lower intake for myself as a winter project
View attachment 410776

View attachment 410778

and the outside temp has just been to cold to complete the buffing and polishing process so I’m not able to finish what I started.

IMHO you need some heat to make the compounds work for you is the one thing I’ve found out for myself over there years.
Winter in my opinion is probably the worst time of the year to do any buffing or polishing, but it seems to be when most people try doing it because that’s when they have the time to do it.
Here’s my suggestion to those who try to polish things in the winter; take the part inside if you can) and keep it warm and then when the temp in the area you’re doing all your buffing or polishing in is 50-60 degrees then do your buffing or polishing in that area.
Remember it’s just a suggestion, and nothing more.
 
Where are you guys buying your compounds from? I've used a few that suck ass and just won't bring out the shine.

Nate if you need some direction on the polishing let me know. I've got it pretty well down just need to find a better compound to really make it pop.
 
I've had good luck from places such as Eastwood, Wholesale Tool Company, and even Sears. Every once in a while I have a block that seems to be of lesser quality, but for the most part I think it's all the same :shrug:
 
I've had good luck from places such as Eastwood, Wholesale Tool Company, and even Sears. Every once in a while I have a block that seems to be of lesser quality, but for the most part I think it's all the same :shrug:

I can't remember the name of the stuff I've been using. I'll have to check when I get home. At any rate what stuff were you getting from sears? Would rather pick it up in person at a store. I can't find tripoli or compounds for that matter at most places for some reason. The brand I'm using now won't even remove the lightest oxidation let alone light scratches w/ a high speed wheel (and this is supposed to be an agressive compound). So that's the reason I'm asking b/c the stuff I have right now is a complete waste of time.
 
What wheel are you using it on, and how are you spinning it?

They only have one brand (Craftsman) at least at my store and from what I saw online. They have a 3-in-1 kit (emery/trip/w.r. + wheels) for $10, and I think loose sticks as well.
 
What wheel are you using it on, and how are you spinning it?

They only have one brand (Craftsman) at least at my store and from what I saw online. They have a 3-in-1 kit (emery/trip/w.r. + wheels) for $10, and I think loose sticks as well.


I use a high speed air die grinder w/ a 6" polishing wheel (Primairly use that for my aluminum rims) . I have a bench grinder too if I have a smaller more manageable part to deal with. I'll have to stop up sears, I just think I'm using inferior compounds, the parts themself are ultra smooth from the sanding but still appear cloudy after I'm done using using compounds. I see the stuff you guys do and mine just donesn't have the mirror like apperance in the end.
 
Hmm, one problem could be the quality of metal although if it happens EVERY time that is probably not the case. What are you polishing? Can you show a pic of them after sanding?

Another thing that'll kill you is the amount of compound you use. If you don't use enough it just won't work well enough no matter how long you go, especially with white rouge - in my experience anyway. After that, the pressure and technique used for buffing ON the piece is a big thing to worry about.