Got a few questions plz HELP

Not sure on the SN95's but on the FOX mustangs the ac vent controls are done via vacuum, which may be loose cracked or broken and preventing the ac from blowing through the main vents. Does the heat blow from whatever vent you send it to?

you def need to pull the codes on your car to see what the computer is telling you. Thats the place to start to diagnose ANY type of engine problems

bluestreak_96gt said:

The air works great except the fact it only blows through the defrost vents... now my mom, her car is the opposite, well kind of hers only blows fully on or off... is it just the dials?

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It may be a vacuum source issue. Look for a disconnected vacuum line on the back of the throttle body.

next thing my car every time I go to start it, it takes 2 or 3 good turns of the ignition to start regarless if the car is hot or cold, wtf gives??? plus u can smell fuel as well.. and once in a while white smoke, but not a heavy smoke, just enough to notice...

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Could be a number of things. Leaking injectors could cause a flood condition when the engine is off that could explain the sluggish start, the fuel smell and the smoke. Check for external leaks too.

...while driving my RPM's start to jump all over the f-ing place, and wont accelerate 4 snit...car eventually stall's out, then all u can here is continuous clicking inside passenger front side fender, anything to be alarmed with, and is it pricey?

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It could be as simple as a loose battery terminal or as costly as a CCRM (constant control and relay module.) You might want to check the battery health and alternator output. Does it happen to coincide with hitting bumps or rough roads?

I would focus most on the battery terminals, on the grounds where they connect to the body/chassis, the condition of the cables, terminations etc.

Also about how much to rebuild a rear end? Thanks

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FRPP has a host of kits giving you the parts. A complete "stage 3" kit from them is ~$128 and includes basically everything from the axle seals in. If you need the TLok rebuilt too, get their carbon-disc kit for $129.

If the gears are toast (e.g. have been making noise for some time) you'll probably have to replace them to get rid of the noise as they'll have worn in with the wrong setup. A set of 3.73s is $170.

So for parts, a complete rear-end rebuild is on the order of $427. (If your existing gears are good subtract $170.) Figure a couple hundred in labor for a decent shop to do the work and you're edging up to $650-700...

What's the rear doing that makes you think it needs a rebuild?

I'm betting there is a vacuum leak somewhere. The doors inside the venting are still controlled by vacuum actuators. Your engine problems could certainly be related to the vacuum leak too because the engine is receiving air that the computer didn't know about. Check all the vacuum hoses going from the intake to the firewall carefully, looking for anything broken, cracked or disconnected. that would be an easy fix, but it may be on the passenger compartment side too.

The clicking you hear is probably a relay, but I'm not sure which one. Solve your vacuum leak (or whatever the engine problem is) first, and this problem may solve its self.