Got A Set Of Heads. Rr & Cam Questions

Hi guys, some of you probably remember my thread about a new H/C/I combo for my mustang. Unfortunately some things got in the way of my budget, and I had to compromise. Instead of getting high-dollar aluminum heads, I bought a set of refurb'd GT40Ps (new freeze plugs, seals, valve guides, valve job, resurfaced, inspected for cracks w/ receipt etc.) to replace my tired E7TEs. now I've bought all the gaskets & consumables to perform the upgrade, and will be getting crane beehive valve springs and ARP head studs.
Now my questions; I haven't pulled the valve covers off to see if my FRPP 1.6 RRs are stud mount or pedestal mount units. If they turn out to be stud mount, I will go ahead and order some 1.7 pedestal mount roller rockers. If not, I may just leave them be. I am guessing they are probably pedestal mounts but no way to know until I pull the valve covers, right?
Next question; I am considering swapping my E303 cam for an XE264HR. Would i feel any major difference coming from the E303 with this upgrade? Say I left the rockers alone? Would I feel an upgrade if I went ahead and did the 1.7 RRs and left the E cam alone? Would I feel a noticeable difference if I did both 1.7 RRs and XE264HR together? (I know there are two different part #s for the 1.6 and 1.7 comp cams) or would I be fine with the butt dyno just leaving well enough alone?

I guess what I'm asking is how would you do it?
Thanks in advance Stangnet!

Can't edit posts on here?
Ok sorry guys, if I choose to keep the E cam, I will stick with 1.7 RRs. So I guess that changes my post a little bit.

Excuse me; 1.6 RRs.

I know. I currently have E7s. Which I believe are also pedestal mount and I'm really hoping have not been converted to stud mount

I'm thinking I'll probably stick with the E cam because it's decently matched to the GT40P heads and makes things easier in the future if I have to pass smog again; just swap my catless h pipe for a catted unit.