got car running again! with vid

was off all last week on paid vacation.

put my new battery box and relocated battery, installed 255 lph pump and mounted up my ignition box, car ran awesome and then a few mins later a freeze plug popped out ( old ones rotted out and i replaced them with expandable plugs from under the car) they fell out so i pulled the motor and trans. to get some nice bras plugs and install them the best way so they wont leak, i also installed a RAM powergrip HD clutch, also replaced oil pan gasket and rear main seal.

luckily i was on vacation so i did all the work while i was off last week and the downtime was only a few days lol.

heres a small vid of me rolling down the highway, car is runnning its best right now. the ignition box really made a differece. i was running stock ignition with .025 gap and the car kept breaking up real back over 5k. now with the summit box i am running .040 gap and the car runs smooth all the way until i shift. really was suprised at the difference the ignition upgrade helped.

just need to do some small tuning things but overall the car drives very well and i could take it to the track now just need some tires.

car is running around 11.5 AFR and 18* total timing at higher rpms with 91 octane. car runs killer on the street.
hoping for 11.50s or so. also considering buying soem race fuel and trying to tune for that, adding more timing and etc to see if i can really run quick on some good gas at the track.

supercharged 91 stang cruise - Video

let me know what you think. hehe i short shifted into 3rd real bad. its hard to drive it one hand and one on the camera..
i really hate not having the correct speedo gear, they dont make them for 3.90s so my speedo is actually around 10 mph slow and makes the car look slower haha i am considering going to a higher gear like 3.55s or something soon hopefully so i can get a gear to match that for sure.

also want to get a nice tachometer. last season i thought i was about the hit the rev limiter, tach showing 6200 and i was actually turning 5700.
in the vid my tach reaches around 6k a few times but i was also logging the car at the same time and my logs never really show anwhere slow to 6k maybe around 5300-5500.

so i dont know how far off it it, maybe i can pick up some performance with an accurate tach, i may not be turning it as high as i should. the car never stops pulling lol just shift according to the stock tach.

shoot its hard to say how much time i actually have invested in tuning.

i got the tweecer a few months ago, been messing with it off and on.
the main thing is just getting the MAF transfer to accurately represent what is actually going into the engine, then its a matter of dialing in the inj slopes and everything else seems to fall into place easier.

i would guess about 10-15 hours of actual tuning time and this is learning from scratch, have had some help from a guy i have been emailing and have learned alot. no tuning expert yet lol but i understand most everything.


still have some small stuff like idle and etc work with... just getting everything dialed in perfect but overall the drivability and performance is 10x better than having no tune.

starting off i found the slopes and BP and inj offsets for 42s per FRPP's specs

i was just running the "norm" people suggest to run and i had some problems getting things working good.

tried the ford specs out and loaded up the generic pro-m42 maf transfer from EA
my actual meter is the "blower tuned" meter.
and from what i have found, the low end of the curve is pretty close to the generic transfer and the high end is way off.

the "blower tuned" MAF artificially adds fuel by having insanely high airflow values on the big end, to fool a stock untuned EEC into dumping more fuel into the engine.

for my combo is seems to work fine, i may be losing a little bit of resolution on the top end of the curve. my engine is only reaching around 4.2 volts on the MAF with the current setup. theres a few points on the curve i am not even closer to reaching.

according to most people about 4.5v is about perfect. if you start getting higher voltages your maf is undersized. but i have talked to some people (including Pro-M) and they said me reaching 4.2v is fine, its not horribly oversized and it gives me room to grow later if i want

anyways i have been logging the car and running the MAF tool in EA, i have a WB so my adaptive strategy is disabled. so calculations are made solely from LAMBSEs and my AFR readings

first few logs and maf tweaks have made good improvments, the majority of the changes were on the big end. its getting closer. its at the point now where i am going to start tweaking one point at a time, so i dont start chasing my tail, i am told EA will tend to overshoot on the calculations.