Got in an accident...

1FatPony · Oct 30, 2006

So today i got in an accident that crunched my driver quarter panel. I really didnt plan on doing any body work or painting the car for awhile but looking at that crunched quarter panel everyday irritates me. What would be the best way to repair this using the most inexpensive way and without yousing too much bondo. I would like to repair it now and primer over it so at least it looks decent but I dont want to put too much bondo on it so by the time I get it painted it is all cracked. There is a large bow in teh quarter that goes from the top of the wheel well to the crease that is a few inches below the window. The fender flares are also crunched in slightly.

What do you reccomend I do?

TomCat · Oct 31, 2006

Can you get pics of it? A stud welder and slide hammer can do wonders, but it's hard to say without seeing the damage.

1FatPony · Oct 31, 2006

Ill take some this afternoon

Black Sun 5.0 · Oct 31, 2006

I feel for you, especially if you had plans for the car in the future.

1FatPony · Oct 31, 2006

Black Sun 5.0 said:
I feel for you, especially if you had plans for the car in the future.

thanks. Yea it was just a bad day for me.
here are some pics. There is a large bow in the quarter from the top of the flare to right at that crease. Could I use one of those pullers to get that out? How do you think I should go about with the crunched flare?

1FatPony · Oct 31, 2006

bump
anyone??
also how would I go about pulling it out since the metal seems to be double layered. The wheel well cuts off the body early.

TomCat · Oct 31, 2006

Damn, it's hard to make anything out with that black paint. I'm not sure what you mean by the metal being double layered. I've never actually done a quarter on a Stang, but on my Probes all I did was grind away the paint, weld lots of studs on and slowly pull it out with a slide hammer while someone tapped on any crowns. I got it to about 1/8" of right in most places and Bondo did the rest. Good luck with it.

Also, hopefully a bodyman will stop in!

1FatPony · Nov 1, 2006

there is the body on the outside, and then there is teh wheel well that curves in. So when I try to bang from the inside it just hits the wheel well metal. it doubles up at the flare and then seperates, one for the body and one for the wheel well.

Does anyoen have experience with fiberglass filler? Whats the difference between that and bondo? I dont plan on painting it for awhile but i want to fix it now but dont want it to crack when I get it painted.

TomCat · Nov 1, 2006

Guess you'll just have to pull on it then. From what I've been told, you use glass for larger areas to build support and go over that with plastic filler for a smooth surface. Glass with hairs in it isn't too easy to get as smooth as the plastic stuff.

795.0pacecar · Nov 1, 2006

Have you tried pulling the interior plastic off and pushing on it from there? Make body filler a last resort, if you don't do it perfectly, in time it will crack, and if you don't seal it very quickly it will absorb water.

1FatPony · Nov 1, 2006

795.0pacecar said:
Have you tried pulling the interior plastic off and pushing on it from there? Make body filler a last resort, if you don't do it perfectly, in time it will crack, and if you don't seal it very quickly it will absorb water.

No I have thought about it but I still dont think I will be able to get the the flare part, only the big bow part but I want to pull that out with the puller first. I also am trying not to put filler on. I may just try the best i can and leave it at that for now. Maybe work on it from time to time to try and get it close to perfect. But I really dont want to use filler.

TomCat · Nov 1, 2006

I doubt you'll be able to fix that crushed part without filler. When you get to it, just do a real nice job.

z2o_what · Nov 1, 2006

maybe you could cut that whole panel out and weld another in.

90 · Nov 1, 2006

i was gonna say a plunger or a ding king.... then i seen the pic's.. sorry to see that man!... breaks my hearts to watch another man mustang go through cosmetic's... i would take it to a bodyshop, unless you really wanted to do it yourself!.. then i'd go through the inside and punch out

1FatPony · Nov 1, 2006

Anyone have a ballpark price on how much it would cost to get it done by a professional? And how well will it cone out?

how about how much would it cost to weld in another quarter?

Black Sun 5.0 · Nov 1, 2006

I personally couln't guess at an estimate, I'm not a bodywork guy. I think, though, once again, you have to bring up the question as to what your long-term plans are with this car. Do you plan on restoring it at any given time? Or perhaps this car is only a daily driver that you'll either sell or junk when you're done with it. If it's a long-term deal, I'd start saving my pennies to get the whole body re-done. That's just my take on these things. I bring this up because to me, that damage looks a bit messy and might not be worth the expense if the rest of the car could also use a little bit of TLC.

glowstang93 · Nov 1, 2006

Wish I could help you, but I took mine to the body shop 7 years ago when mine got hit.

TheDamned · Nov 1, 2006

Not too bad.. my black stang got PIERCED last winter.. it sucked.

Mustang78 · Nov 1, 2006

View attachment 427834

I had almost the same happen to me, it was a pain to get that line around the lip of the fender right, but with a BFH and body working tools i got it about 1/4" to1/8" of perfect in 99% of the spots, also i used a "C" clamp and pulled up once clamped to get the bottom lip straight, then pounded on the upper part..also a screw type slide hammer is cheaper than the weld on pin type, just drill a small hole, screw it in and slam the handle back..you'll get it, just spent a few hours on it and you'll get it, a body shop would probably charge around 150-300 to get it straight and bondo it, repainting will cost a couple hundred more to match the factory color

~Mark~

TheDamned · Nov 1, 2006

Black is a b1tch to match.

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