granada disc brake swap to 67 mustang

[cctinnell]

i just bought a 1980 granada to use as a donor for my 67 mustang. my 67 is manual drum brakes all the way around. what lines do i buy to hook up the brakes? can i use some for a 70 model mustang? also what kind of proportioning valve do i need to buy? is there any other secrets to getting the brakes to function properly?

Thanks

 

[67efivert]

im not sure but i thought 80 model had fox platform suspension with struts if it does then that set up wont work??? hope im wrong for ur sake?

 

[BigDaddyCee]

Try These sites for some good info.

According to many 1975 - 1980 Granada's and Monarch's are the cars you use. http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/Disc Brakes.htm also try http://mustangsteve.com/granadadiscs.html hth

 

[67efivert]

guess i was wrong its 81 that is a fox.
i put them on both of my 67 cars and i just used granada porptioning valves and brake hoses.

 

[HHStang]

I believe you can. Tie rod ends will probably need changed.

 

[oz]

I can't speak to the '67 specifically but I did this swap on my '69. I used the spindles, discs, proportioning valve, tie rod ends, and rubber brake hoses from the Granada. I used the booster and (dual reservoir) master cylinder from a Mustang. I had the hard lines made by Classic Tube. It took a few tries but they eventually got me the right lines (customized due to the 'mixed bag' of parts I used). You will need the brake pedal from either a power brake mustang or cougar. The manual pedal is not the same and should not be used. I am not sure but I think it has to be from a car with equivalent transmission (manual or auto) so it will fit the under dash bracket you have. I got mine from West Coast Classic Cougar in Portland, OR (salvage yard for Cougars).
Many people swear that you need to use an adjustable prop valve but I have found the Granada valve to work fine. I do notice that under very hard braking that the rear tires will lock up slightly before the fronts. If this is a concern, the $50 for an adjustable valve may be well spent.
It looks like National Parts Depot has a lot of this stuff in their catalog.

I've got to say, out of all the cars I have worked on and driven, I am most pleased with the brake feel of my '69 Mustang with the granada conversion. Nice and solid without being 'grabby'.

Good Luck!

 

[babaker]

Did this on my 66.

I put granada disks on my 66. The tie rod taper is different than that of the 66 and i think your 67 is the same.
Mustangs Plus (http://www.mustangsplus.com) sells the tie rod for this swap I think it is a stock Chevy part.
If you have manual steering the tie rod ends are not too expensive, but if you have power the Driver side is expensive because it has a dog leg in it to get around the control valve.
On my 66 I used the granada brake hose with a short piece of hardline bent @ 90deg to position it in the right spot.
Good luck with the conversion.

 

['69Stang]

I can't speak to the '67 specifically but I did this swap on my '69. I used the spindles, discs, proportioning valve, tie rod ends, and rubber brake hoses from the Granada. I used the booster and (dual reservoir) master cylinder from a Mustang. I had the hard lines made by Classic Tube. It took a few tries but they eventually got me the right lines (customized due to the 'mixed bag' of parts I used). You will need the brake pedal from either a power brake mustang or cougar. The manual pedal is not the same and should not be used. I am not sure but I think it has to be from a car with equivalent transmission (manual or auto) so it will fit the under dash bracket you have. I got mine from West Coast Classic Cougar in Portland, OR (salvage yard for Cougars).
Many people swear that you need to use an adjustable prop valve but I have found the Granada valve to work fine. I do notice that under very hard braking that the rear tires will lock up slightly before the fronts. If this is a concern, the $50 for an adjustable valve may be well spent.
It looks like National Parts Depot has a lot of this stuff in their catalog.

I've got to say, out of all the cars I have worked on and driven, I am most pleased with the brake feel of my '69 Mustang with the granada conversion. Nice and solid without being 'grabby'.

Good Luck!

OZ:
How did the parking brake hook-up work on your rear brakes? Did you have to buy specific springs or hardware?. Also, did you buy a "power brake" brake pedal and replace the original manual brake pedal? I also had a 4 wheel drum brake set-up on my '69 but switched to Stainless Steel Corp front disc's and then later to the Granada/ Versaille rear disc's when I swapped out the 8" to the 9" rear-end.
Hey, I see you are in Plymouth, MI I live in Bloomfield Township, not to far apart.

 

[oz]

I left the rear drums so I did not have to mess with the parking brake.

I did buy the power brake pedal used from that Cougar place (mentioned in previous post)

 

[HHStang]

One tip on Granada calipers. Bleed them unbolted from car (with pads seperated with a board or something) to keep bleeder at very top. I spent 3 days, bought new caliper, etc. trying to figure this out.

 

['69Stang]

One tip on Granada calipers. Bleed them unbolted from car (with pads seperated with a board or something) to keep bleeder at very top. I spent 3 days, bought new caliper, etc. trying to figure this out.

Does this help keep the pedal higher? What is the reasoning behind doing this?

 

[fess40]

One tip on Granada calipers. Bleed them unbolted from car (with pads seperated with a board or something) to keep bleeder at very top. I spent 3 days, bought new caliper, etc. trying to figure this out.

I may have to try this. I did the swap a while back using all '78 Granada Stuff and '67 Manual master cylinder on my '66. I bent all of my hard lines, turned out pretty good for a first time. Still feels like there is air in there and I can't count how many times I've bled them! Gotta try that.

 

[cctinnell]

do i have to put a different pedal in if i am not going to have power brakes anyway?

 

[oz]

hmmm... manual disc... I don't think you'd want to change the pedal in that case. The manual pedal has a different fulcrum point that helps make it easier to stop the car without power assist. If you use it on a power assist car, the brakes will be very grabby and touchy.

If you're going to do the change, why not make them power? It is really little extra effort. The only things you have to do is change the pedal, add a power booster and a vacuum line to the intake. Viola - it's done.

 

[twowheels_1999]

67/ to granada front disc

Ok I can help you. Just got done w/ that project. Go to www.mpbrakes.com and scroll down to bottom left on that page, and click on about valves for your proportioning valve. Now my car is none power. So I purchased a 1976 ford maverick front disc rear drum none power master cylinder. And the combination front disc rear drum proportioning valve. The people from mp brakes can help you w/ all that. Now on your brake lines you will have to see when you get the valve home how your lines look and then decide what to do. I got the bracket to mount the valve under my master cylinder. Then I went to a place called indy tubes and hoses. Youl have to find a place like that where your at . And they had all the proper fittings and hydraulic tube bender to make my lines from master cylinder to valve. Then I Installed master and valve hooked up lines bled the system and it is perfect. That is the best I can do for ya. If the original lines on your car do not fit proportioning valve you can either put the proper reducers on it whitch I dont recomend thats just more that can leak. So you either need a good double flaring tool and put the proper fittings on or you need to get all your proper parts and take it too a good brake shop and let them install all that.