Grind locations on 87 valve covers for AFR's & scorpions

[rockin_rick]

Where do the 87 valve covers need to be clearanced at to not rub on the Scorpion 1.6 RR, on stud mounted AFR165's? VC gasket is a Felpro 1645 (5/16").

I've attached 2 pics with each rib identified. Which ones will need ground? Does ALL of the raised baffle lip need ground off?

Rick

 

[Rootus]

The only place I needed to grind was on the ridges where the oil fill baffle mounts, on both covers. You might try using some prussian blue to find interference points between the rockers & covers (for me it wasn't actually rockers hitting, it was the rocker stud).

Dave

 

[1105]

I had to grind down D and F on the drivers side, but I'm running different rockers.

 

[rockin_rick]

I started grinding on these, and it seems that location L (the support rib next to the main hole casting) is giving me trouble. I haven't started the passenger one, yet. I've got the baffle cut/ground down.

Can anyone else provide some suggestions/experience with this? Does anyone have any pics of their ground down VC's?

I've got to go get more supplies. I think I burnt up my dremel doing this. Gonna try getting some new brushes and see what happens, otherwise a whole new dremel...

Rick

 

[final5-0]

Rick

I really don't remember exactly which places I removed material but I can tell you why I picked the spots to start from, if this makes since to you.

I have aluminum fox body vc's and Scorpion 1.6 stud rr's which are on 165 AFR's.

I placed the vc on the head with no vc gasket and noticed that the bolt holes would not quite line up. I think I started with the pass side first, anyway it looked like I could only see about 90% of the hole on the head through the vc hole. I moved the vc from side to side or in a front to rear motion and it sounded like the front of the vc was where the interference was at. I put some wheel bearing grease on the rocker I thought was the problem, moved the vc back and forth and if the grease showed up in the vc that is where I removed some material. I'm gonna say your point V or maybe the bolt hole boss by point X.

The drivers side was, I think, the big boss in the center of the vc or your point E or L. I did this around Christmas of 2002 so I really don't remember a lot about it.

My goal was to be able to slide the vc about 1/16 of an inch to the right, left, up, and down starting from the hole in the head & vc being lined up and not have the vc hit or touch anything.

I do remember the first one (pass side) took about 30 mins to find the tight spots and the other side I found the probs in about half of the time.

The entire time spent on both sides was not much more than an hour. I did not have to remove very much material from any one place.

I used a die grinder and my porting tools which would be quicker than a dremel.

One last thing!

One of the alt bolts and the front of the pass side vc just ever so slightly touched each other.

I did not want to grind down the bolt.

I found very thin (like 60 thousands of an inch) washers to shim out the alt for the room needed to clear between the vc & alt.

Later
Grady

 

[FastGT94]

Grady, did you have to modify the baffle at all? Do you still have it in?

I took mine and made it about 1/8" closer to the top of the VC, I guess I'll just have to wait and see. I'm also still trying to figure out the oil fill tube

 

[SaltWaterFish]

I picked up a set off e-bay and the guy ground off every rib on the inside and the raised baffles to.

 

[final5-0]

Grady, did you have to modify the baffle at all? Do you still have it in?

I took mine and made it about 1/8" closer to the top of the VC, I guess I'll just have to wait and see. I'm also still trying to figure out the oil fill tube

I removed the baffle and I wanna think that I removed a small amount of the baffel support also.

I have seen some say that they cut the tube and welded it back in such a way that everything would work.

I raised the top half of the tube about 1 inch, turned the hose spout to point at the thermo housing, and the top half of the tube is leaning at an angle a few degrees toward the thermo housing. I'm using the stock 95 oil fill cap.

However you choose to reposition the tube it is kinda tight but once you get started you will see that it will all fall in place with no pobs.

Later
Grady