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Grinding while I shift into gear

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1990blackmagic
  • Start date Start date Jul 1, 2011
1

1990blackmagic

New Member
Jul 1, 2011
4
0
0
Jacksonville N.C.
Jul 1, 2011
#1
  • Jul 1, 2011
  • #1
i have a 1990 5.0 lx hatchback and im having a problem shifting into gears. It kind of grinds as i go into 2, 3, and 4th. Now my father-in-law said it might be a clutch slave cylinder or something like that? Do i need a new clutch or a new transmission? i need help anything will do thanks
 

Repostyle

Member
Jun 11, 2005
538
0
16
Portland, OR
Jul 1, 2011
#2
  • Jul 1, 2011
  • #2
Once you get it into gear does it stay there or pop out? Can you fully engauge the gears with the engine off? There's no slave cylinders in our cars, they're manual clutches. Unless it's aftermarket hydralic or I'm totally mistaken, but every mustang I've seen and worked on had a manual clutch.

Assuming the car still has stock shifter and trans:

First start by adjusting the clutch quadrant (under the dash above the pedals), if that doesn't work, replace the cable, if that doesn't work, replace the clutch and clutch fork, if that doesn't work, take it to a trans shop and diagnose to be sure and replace or rebuild the trans. In that order.

I've had my fair share of problems shifting after my auto to manual swap, but I hope once my firewall adjuster and double hook quadrant arrive next week I will have finally worked out all the bugs.

If you need to I'm sure you can do a search and find directions on how to adjust the quadrant here in these forums, it's pretty easy, just ackward.
 

Repostyle

Member
Jun 11, 2005
538
0
16
Portland, OR
Jul 1, 2011
#3
  • Jul 1, 2011
  • #3
Here ya go:

How To Adjust OEM Mustang Clutch Cable
 

brakeswhatbrake

New Member
Jun 21, 2011
7
0
0
Jul 2, 2011
#4
  • Jul 2, 2011
  • #4
if it grinds when you go into gear but stays in and doesnt pop out then it sounds to me like a throw out bearing if so i would replace the clutch, preasure plate, get the flywheel turned and replace the rear main seal at the sametime to avoid further headache since you already got the transmission out
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Jul 2, 2011
#5
  • Jul 2, 2011
  • #5
It sounds like you need synchros in your trans. If the clutch adjustment doesn't help, give your fluid a change and see if it looks like you have glitter floating around in the old fluid. That will probably give you the answer you're looking for without removing the trans.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Jul 2, 2011
#6
  • Jul 2, 2011
  • #6
Edit: double post
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Jul 3, 2011
#7
  • Jul 3, 2011
  • #7
Just offhand I'd vote for the clutch not disengaging all the way. My well-seasoned '88 GT has started doing this lately, especially when going into reverse. If I make very sure the clutch is all the way down, it's fine, but it's definitely time for a new clutch.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,366
18,112
224
Massachusetts
Jul 4, 2011
#8
  • Jul 4, 2011
  • #8
Second checking clutch tension.
 
1

1990blackmagic

New Member
Jul 1, 2011
4
0
0
Jacksonville N.C.
Jul 9, 2011
#9
  • Jul 9, 2011
  • #9
will do thanks for all the help
 

gearheadboy

15 Year Member
Jan 15, 2003
1,425
177
84
Greencastle Pa
Jul 9, 2011
#10
  • Jul 9, 2011
  • #10
See if you have an adjustable cable. If not pick up on the clutch pedal hard, you should hear a few clicks, then drive it again. May need an adjustable quadrant/cable. I just did all of the new clutch cable, quadrant stuff to remedy a stiff pedal and grinding between gears. Pushes nice now but still grinds when shifting fast and pops out on decel in second. Mine needs rebuilt.
 
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