GT-40 Intake owners please help!!

donsbad68

Immensely Educated
Jan 4, 2003
838
0
0
Oklahoma
Hey guys, I have a problem at the moment. I just put my Gt-40 intake on my new motor and there is no spot in the back passenger side for the EGR cooling line? I realize I can just plug the Egr coolant lines off but there is also a sensor in the front driver's side that doesnt have a bung also? It's directly behind the 1st injector on that side. I believe its called the intake air temp sensor? Correct me if I'm wrong. Do I need to have this sensor? If I do can I just make some form of a jumper wire? Thanks in advance.

Dustin
 
donsbad68 said:
I believe its called the intake air temp sensor? Correct me if I'm wrong. Do I need to have this sensor? If I do can I just make some form of a jumper wire? Thanks in advance.

Dustin
Yes you need to have that sensor hooked up. You can however screw that sensor into the air intake tube and plug off the intake like on the 94+.
 
There's no spot for the coolant line because it is on the egr spacer. This intake requires a spacer to be used with a egr system. Or perhaps you mean the lower intake? If that's the case, then just transfer the pipe fitting from your old intake into this one. Regarding the sensor hole, is the lower intake perhaps off of an explorer instead? My GT40 lower has the hole for the sensor.
 
i dont want to use the EGR so then what do I need to do? Also I already have the intake on the motor and the motor in the car. Can I do like mentioned before and just relocate the sensor to the air duct?
 
The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The stock air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.

If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.

6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing
 
I did splice the end into the intake tract before the TB and the mass air meter with 18 guage wire. What could be the problem? Low current to the sensor? A bad connection? I soldiered all the splices.