GT-40 Manifold swap questions..

I didn't have any probs putting the black metal vacuum assembly in. If anything it was a little to long and stuck out the back of the intake and made it harder to hook up the lines from the FPR, vacuum harness and vacuum tree. I actually deleted the charcoal canister so issues there. And since I had an explorer lower I put my ACT sensor in the hole by the EGR spacer but if you have an actual GT 40 lower you don't need to worry about that as there is already a hole tapped for it so I would just plug the hole by the EGR spacer.

What you might be able to do is get a short brass nipple and coupling from a hardware store and extend that black metal vacuum assembly far enough so it doesn't hang up on your upper. I don't know if that will work.

That black metal assembly threads into like a vacuum header assemblythat has a port at the back for the metal assembly and a port at the front for PCV, correct? You might be able to install a brass T fitting right there at that front threaded hub and run the PCV and the charcoal canister off that.

Hope this helps.

One more thing. Just make sure that you have all your injectors and harnesses in their proper positions especially the ones under the upper intake cause if you don't you can crush the harnesses and connectors. Trust me I know from personal experience.

One last thing. Could you let me know how you like the thumper heads with the GT 40. You and I are pretty close as far as mods go and I am trying to decide which heads. Thanks

I would just use a vacuum cap or something like that and just route the line under the car like over toward the front wheel just to be extra safe. If it is capped it should be no prob. That is what I did or if you really wanted to go the extra mile you could find where it comes off of the fuel filler neck and cap it there.

capping that line is a bad idea from what ive heard. if you cap that line off pressure from the tank has no where to go. thats the reason its there. i would just route it somewhere that isnt going to be near any kind of heat source.

How would you like some FREE gas mileage? And while you're at it better driveablity? Then connect the carbon canister up like it should be connected. Not only does it properly vent the fuel tank, but it also provides fuel vapor while the engine is in cruse mode. This additional fuel keeps the engine from running lean and improves part throttle performance.

Get the book and you'll see what I mean...

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

How in the world are you using a stock lower with a GT40 upper? The runner shapes are completely incompatible - the GT40's are round; the stock lower runners are oval; besides that, they won't align properly - the GT40 has the round runners offset from one another; the stock lower runners are all in a line. You can't mount the GT40 upper on the stock lower. Besides that, the real restriction is the stock lower, not the stock upper. I'm probably missing something in your message - but vacuum connections and vapor cannisters are the least of your problems if you're trying to replace a stock upper with a GT40 upper - it can't be done, which is probably why no one responded earlier on to your "whoever has done this....". What am I missing?

Latham - glad to hear it's just me; here's the line in your post that threw me off:

"ok im swapping my upper stock intake with the GT-40 Upper intake"

Latham - glad to hear it's just me; here's the line in your post that threw me off:

"ok im swapping my upper stock intake with the GT-40 Upper intake"

Good luck with it!