GT40P head install, need help with studs

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself
15 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Im right in the middle of my head install, already have the studs torqued into the block. I put the heads on the studs and now see the nuts and these other things. What the hell are these things, and how do I use them? I thought I was getting some kind of lock washer with the 12 point nut, but this is what ARP gave me along with no directions...

<a href="http://s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm276/Iowabiggun/?action=view&current=DSCN0511.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm276/Iowabiggun/DSCN0511.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Any help is greatly appreciated, cause this stops my progress in its tracks. Thanks guys!
 
So basically I dont need them. Sounds good guys. Tomorrow I am going to come home and finish buttoning them up. I didnt have directions included for some reason, so I torqued the studs to 35 ft/lbs when putting them in the block. Come to find out I found online that they are only supposed to be "hand tight." I dont know how hand tight compares to 35 ft/lbs, but I think I'll be ok there. I appreciate you guys chiming in for a rookie. This is my first head swap, let alone using studs and whatnot.
 
I've never used them for heads that do have 1/2" holes. The dowels keep the head in place.

Kurt

That brings me to another question. Those two dowels on the lower part of the block, they came out with each of my E7's. Thumper did not install them in the GT40P's, so should I find some and install them to hold the heads in place better?
 
First off, you do not "torque" studs into the block. Studs should only be installed snug into the block and use teflon sealant on the lower ones that extend into the water jacket. The nuts on top are what get torqued.

Secondly, some GT40 heads do have 1/2" bolt holes (they were also on the 351 lightnings). If you have 1/2" holes use the reducer bushings if you have them. You can probably get away without but if you have them it's best to use them.

Finally, the locating dowels....I've always put them back in, they help keep the gaskets aligned. If you don't have any, most maching shops should have some and I think you can probably get them at NAPA, or at least you used to.
 
You CAN NOT put the heads back on without the dowels. They are like 50 cents a pair at the parts store. Put them in the block first, and lay the head down on top of them.

Kurt
 
First off, you do not "torque" studs into the block. Studs should only be installed snug into the block and use teflon sealant on the lower ones that extend into the water jacket. The nuts on top are what get torqued.

Secondly, some GT40 heads do have 1/2" bolt holes (they were also on the 351 lightnings). If you have 1/2" holes use the reducer bushings if you have them. You can probably get away without but if you have them it's best to use them.

Finally, the locating dowels....I've always put them back in, they help keep the gaskets aligned. If you don't have any, most maching shops should have some and I think you can probably get them at NAPA, or at least you used to.

Yeah man, I mentioned above that its my first head swap, and ARP left directions out of the box... Thanks for the rest of the info though. I have 7/16 holes in my P heads, hence why I couldnt figure out where those spacers came into use.

Kurt, my local advanced auto didnt have the dowels, but I will find them, cause I want to do the job right the first time. Thanks again for the help guys. :nice:
 
Kurt, youre the man. You could make bank training dudes at advanced auto. Should be smooth sailing for me from here on out, cause Ive already done an intake swap. I'll take my time adjusting the RR's and have the old girl running by the end of the week. Anyone heard from Wes (Stanger007) lately? I asked him to reburn my chip for my new combo, and he responded the next day asking for combo. That was two weeks ago, and I havent been able to reach him since. :shrug: