Roush H/C/I on 100K Motor

88-378 · Sep 24, 2007

Hi Gentlemen,

My car has 105K on it. I will be doing a compression test this week. It runs very strong! If I get good readings, would you think i will be OK setting up a good HCI combo?

Or, would you wait to freshen up the bottom end?

Saleen87-65 · Sep 24, 2007

105k on a well maintained 302 is just around the end of the break in period

Those engines are tough as nails, forged pistons, rods, good rings...if your car burns loses any coolant or burns any oil at all, you can pretty much bet its bc those old cork gaskets or valve seals are showing their age. Mechanically im sure your fine

88-378 · Sep 24, 2007

I do need a rear main seal. But that is pretty easy. i am going to try and get a good HCI for it with all the supporting mods.

Here is what I have and plan on getting:

Need to get: AFR 165, Cam, Lifters, rods, roller rockers.

What i have: 190 pump, 70 MM TB, 76MMMAF for 24's, 24lbs injectors, Cobra ported upper and lower, underdrive pullies, SPAL fan controller and fan, adj. fuel reg, FRPP headers.

I think that should be it!!

Saleen87-65 · Sep 24, 2007

everywhere I read, I keep hearing for the best drivability and the most power, a custom cam is the way to go. I've heard for years about an FTI cam by Ed Curtis is as good as it gets. I have looked and they do sell a kit with the lifters, gaskets, ect. One day when I have the money, i'd like to do the same

88-378 · Sep 24, 2007

Yeah, I heard that too and i am looking into it. but, did you ever think that an off the shelf cam was once a custom cam?

Ho can you possibly make all these custom cams?

saleen065 · Sep 24, 2007

You would do better to stay with a 65MM TB. Trust me I've seen a 70MM put on the exact same setup as you're doing and it lost power compared to the 65mm TB that was on the setup first. You can go too far with a TB. If you have speed density I'd suggest switching over to Mas Air. This would be a good upgrade especially since you want to go with a cam. You'll have much better tuning and drivability.

saleenster · Sep 24, 2007

foxbodysaleen19 said:
You would do better to stay with a 65MM TB. Trust me I've seen a 70MM put on the exact same setup as you're doing and it lost power compared to the 65mm TB that was on the setup first. You can go too far with a TB. If you have speed density I'd suggest switching over to Mas Air. This would be a good upgrade especially since you want to go with a cam. You'll have much better tuning and drivability.

Ditto. George is correct. Besides, the cobra opening is only 64 1/2" anyways, so putting a 70 on her would do now good. If you think bigger is better, think of it this way...........open your mouth, have somebody blow into it while your trying to breath in.....strange as it sounds, its tough to do, so no need to stick a whopper on it and actually loose hp/tq.

Only concerns I ever have is the oil pump driveshafts. Cars that are driven all the time seem to be okay, its the ones that have sat for extended periods of time that break.

88-378 · Sep 24, 2007

I have MAF. It was a CA car. I will check on that TB, but I had planned to open up the Cobra intake to 70MM, still too big?

My friend has one on his Cobra and seems to put down good numbers.

I'll cahnge that Drive shaft. I was planning on installing a high flow oil pump anyway.

saleen065 · Sep 24, 2007

It's still too big. Trust me that much TB doesn't do much for a N/A engine even with the opening enlarged. you'll loose some torque in the end. Like said before, bigger isn't always better. If it was a blower engine, then by all means go with the 70MM. I've seen the difference on the dyno with a N/A car and it lost 20rwhp going from a 65mm to a 70mm.

88-378 · Sep 24, 2007

You got it. 65 it is. Now, what off the shelf cam. I have heard great things from Comp, Lunati etc.. I really don't know at this point if i want to invest in a custom unit.

At a later date, i would love to drop on a KB! So I know i would have to change it again. but when that time comes I will refresh the entire bottom end.

bill89saleen304 · Sep 24, 2007

You can't go wrong with the Ford Racing E-303 Cam.
Nice lopy idle, great for blower applications, just and all around good cam, that comes right off the shelf!
It works great with my Kenne Bell. So you wouldn't have to change a thing.

Saleen87-65 · Sep 24, 2007

bill89saleen304 said:
You can't go wrong with the Ford Racing E-303 Cam.
Nice lopy idle, great for blower applications, just and all around good cam, that comes right off the shelf!
It works great with my Kenne Bell. So you wouldn't have to change a thing.

sounding good is all the cam is good for lol. It was an alright cam years ago, but take George's car for example, he runs an e-cam. If he went custom on his cam, i'd put money down that his hp would jump around 20 at hte wheels. Now I'm not an expert, and my pushrod days are really numbered since i became an owner in dec., but b/w my hard core 5.0 buddies, and what im reading on the internet, the FRPP cams are kind of bottom of the barrel concerning what is out now. They are tried and true, and they are cheaper then alot of other cams, but if $100 more gets you a custom cam that makes 20rwhp more...why wouldnt you spend it?

88-378 · Sep 25, 2007

True. However, if you get the specs for these custom cams, i am positive you can match it up to an off the shelf. there cannot be that many variaions. I just can't see it.

saleen065 · Sep 25, 2007

Tim I actually run the B303 cam and not the E-cam. If I was to go with another cam and kept the rocker ratio stock at 1.6 I'd definitely get the F303 cam. It is a strong street cam with good lift and duration. The B303 cam with the 1.72 Ration Roller rockers is my setup and it is almost identical to the F303 cam. The advantage of the B303 cam with 1.72 rockers is the duration is slightly longer then the F303 with about the same lift. This promotes much better scavenging for my blower. It basically makes my cam a blower cam.
To surmise, I'd go with the F303 cam off the shelf. It is a good cam with the AFR 165 heads and a great N/A cam for a manual transmission. Just my 2 cents worth.

88-378 · Sep 25, 2007

I will probably not go with the alpha cams. I think that Comp and Lunati are in the front right now. I am looking for low end torque and want to rev to about 5800.

saleen065 · Sep 25, 2007

The B303 cam with stock Rockers is just that, a good bottom end cam that pulls to 6K. Check the Comp and lunati cams as well as you have considered.

88-378 · Sep 25, 2007

Is the B emissions legal?

saleenster · Sep 25, 2007

88-378 said:
Is the B emissions legal?

Yes, but the F cam can be tough to pass.

Saleen87-65 · Sep 25, 2007

what would rocker ratio change about the B cam to not make it pull up top? Concept I dont understand I suppose...so fill me in

saleen065 · Sep 25, 2007

The B cam is not rated emission legal however, if the car is tuned properly it will pass emission with the sniff test. I should know, Mine has not failed yet.

Tim, changing the rocker ratio changes the lift and duration time of the cam. This in turn changes the dynamics of the cam and it's power band. The B cam is a good low end to 6K cam. The F cam on a N/A engine starts pulling slightly higher and goes to about 7K. So with the different ratio rockers the B cam extends it's ability to pull above the 6K as it leaves the valves open slightly longer with the higher ratio rockers. Plus having them open furhter allows for more fuel delivery and scavenging when on the exhaust stroke. It's hard to describe cam dynamics but in a nut shell, changing the ratio changes all the aspects of the cam.

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