Roush H/C/I on 100K Motor

[Saleen87-65]

ah ok...ty

 

[2000xp8]

Don't be afraid of the E cam, it's a decent cam that will pass emissions.
One car at my buddies shop, E cam, gt40x heads, cobra intake, vortech S trim, 485rwhp.
Custom cams are unlikely to pass a smog test.

I wouldn't use afr's, i'd use TW's.
I'd skip the Electric fan, the belt driven one is more reliable, and really doesnt' soak up much power.
Get a new FMS timing chain, the one with all the key ways.
A new water pump
new ford balancer

Since you say 76mm Maf, i'll assume it's a C&L, they are garbage, get a pro m (now PMAS). And before anyone disagrees with me, i've seen them tested vs pro m's on the dyno, the AF is a mess. That little tube does a crappy job of tricking the computer.

Use head gaskets 9333pt1

Rail mount fuel pressure gauge

I know buying a new water pump and balancer seems like a waste of money, but with 100k on the car, they could use replacing anyway. And from ford racing, they are not all that expensive.

 

[saleen065]

I'll second the Pro-M MAF but I have seen fine results with the C&L on a N/A engine running just 24lb injectors. Don't be afraid of it with your setup. If you go with a blower down the road you most likely will be changing things including the MAF. Randy Pethel with his SSC went with the Pro-M on his blower motor and it wouldn't idle no matter what was done. The maf was sent back for retuning and even replaced and it still wouldn't run right. Even a custom chip didn't help. He ended up with a C&L that the engine actually loves and it runs fine. It's a hit and miss thing with the maf at times. Sometimes just reclocking the MAF will solve issues and sometimes it won't make a difference. As for going either TW or AFT or Edelbrock. There's not as much of a HP difference on N/A to see, so look at your wallet first and see what you can afford. I've seen all three heads make more HP then the other in any given setup. I agree on the fan. You can switch to an electric assuming you get a good one but a stock fan is hard to beat for cooling in traffic. If you want to go with underdrive pullies it will make up for the stock fan in drag. Just keep an eye on your charging system. There's lots of different ways to built a mild engine as you are describing and no given one is the rule. It's something you will learn and play with as you go along. I've done way too many engines to count and have had as many different combinations that work better or worse then the last and still be basically the same thing. Have fun and let us know what you get when you're done. Take it to the dyno for a nice tuning of A/F and enjoy.

 

[Saleen87-65]

I found a thread on a 5.0 tech site that had all the cams which can be used for speed density...so that made me happy lol, I really want to not deal with adding on mass air myself. All the cams had one thing in common, they didnt go over a .520 lift, and had stock LSA (114). I guess its a "vacuum" thing when dealing with a speed density + cam

 

[2000xp8]

I agree with what foxbodysaleen said about the heads, my preference is wedges, probably the best bang for the buck, but i'd use gt40x, or edelbrock rpms.
Afr's i wouldn't use, based on the fact that they cost more, and don't do anything better.
I've also been a member of 50tech for years, if i had known you wanted to stay SD, i would of posted the link of that chart.

 

[Saleen87-65]

actually i think he has a cali. '88 which is maf...i was thinking he was SD when I posted it...so now I just posted it for myself lol