Half Way Done With Driver Side Wire Hiding..I Have A Few Questions

92GreenGT

PEAT
Founding Member
Jul 18, 2002
2,085
1
46
Big Stone Gap, VA
Hey guys,

Today I started hiding my wires on my driver side, I already done my passanger side awhile back. I took out the windshield wiper resivor and all. I am going to relocate my soleniod, and I need to know what all wires need to be lengthened. If I mount it behind were the resivor used to be I might be able to get away with out having to add to them. Im also going to mount a small bottle overflow down in behind the inner fender too, so I hope this all works out. All the things on the soleniod, does it matter how they go back on? Everything on the right post, if it goes in mixed match order does it matter? As long as you get everything that needs to be on each correct. I plan on doing some sanding and primer,paint, clear in the engine bay. I will post pics tomorrow if I get everything done, Also, im not sure if I want to fill the holes or not, but if I decide to where can I get that ALL METAL stuff? Thanks

Dave
 
Where all did you mount your soleniod?

In my case I mounted it as high as I could possibly could in the outer fender well to keep it away from any road hazards such as sticks, rocks, etc or any wet /rainy conditions as I possibly could.
solenoid location.JPG


Also, what did you do about the coil? Is there anyway to use it without that ugly looking bracket?

You could either have the stock coil bracket chromed (which I had thought about) or buy a different/ better coil that has a better looking bracket (which I chose the latter).
Coil Wire Routing.JPG


I'll be glad to help all I can if I can, but this may be more helpful than me posting a lot useless pics of what I’ve done. http://www.netsnapshot.com/pcw/buildalbum-cgi?ACCOUNT=1924&KEY=7
OR
http://www.leemotorsports.net/almoststock/

If you browse the Netsnapshot you can see where I used the all-metal to fill the small holes after welding, or http://www.netsnapshot.com/pcw/b?KEY=3&ACCOUNT=1924
All-Metal is not meant to fill large holes. I've told others on this site that all-metal more than likely will crack if you use the all-metal filler on any holes larger than size of a pencil.
All metal is not a remedy for welding all the all- metal does is fill in the small imperfection in the welding, or body work so that you can smooth the surface you’re working on and nothing more.

All I’m trying to do is head off any potential problem you may run into by using all-metal if you think it will work on filling large holes.
Just trying to help and nothing more!
 
I've hid the wires a couple different ways...depending on how you route them determines what needs to be lengthend. First time i mounted the solenoid on the wheel side of the frame rail...only wires i lengthend were the two wiper motor plugs. Be careful where you put the soleniod if you relocate your battery...you'll need some juice to set the timing. You could run some cable and mount a post somewhere.

This time around i got rid of the wiper motor, so need to mess with those. I did need to make the plug on the mc longer tho. No Dave, as long as the wires on the solenoid go to the right post it doesn't matter what order they are in...as long as they all fit on. Also i made a coil bracket..nothing fancy. I put the solenoid close to where almost stock ran his but i wanted access to it without removing the inner fenders. Keep that in mind to...those things aren't the easiest to get in so don't put the wires or soleniod in the way. Heres a pic of the coil bracket and where i put the solenoid(don't mind the dust...its been sitting for a few months)...
310583_189_full.jpg


And to hide it...i just trimmed a stock fender plug....
310583_190_full.jpg


And a finished....almost anyways..
310583_188_full.jpg
 
I love that wiper delete. If we didnt have to go through inspection, I would loose the wipers fast. I drive my Ranger in the rain, and those wipers suck anyways.:lol: Thanks for the tips, hopefully I can get everything done tomorrow. Then paint it up Sunday, hope I dont screw it up.:lol: I will probably put it back together and it not run or catch fire. How do you mount the soleniod? Do you guys just drill two new holes and run the screws through? I dont see how you guys drill holes and the screw not come through on the other side. I think I have everything else figured out except for that, well I better its in a mess right now. I labeled all wires that I took apart so I will know where they go back. Thanks

Dave
 
D347643 said:
hey almost stock, is that starter relay even bolted to anything? from the pics i doesnt look like it... just wondering.

It better be :D
I used the OEM bolts/screw to fasten it with!
Starter Relay mounted with OEM bots.JPG


92GreenGT said:
ALMOST STOCK
Thanks for the tips buddy. Thats the coil I was wanting to buy. From a performance standpoint has it held up pretty good? How much did it cost? Thanks man Dave
Just trying to help.
I've no problems with the coil at all as far as it holding up perforance wise.
I bought the coil about 3 yrs ago and I think the cost was around $45-$50 from Summit.

NoSlo90 :nice:

It's nice to hear that someone else besides myself has done it a second time.
MY 1st Attempt
IM000069.jpg


My 2nd Attempt
IM000316.JPG


I figured that since I still have the original starter solenoid and if I had to replace it once every 15yrs+ isn't a big deal if I have to remove the plastic inner fender panel, but your right it's something that you need to think of.
 
92GreenGT said:
TTT

I need to know how the realease cable for the hood comes off. Thanks

Dave

Theirs a small 1/4" bolt that holds the cable at the locking mechanism of the hood, unbolt the hood locking mechanism and twist it toward you, you should then be able to see the small bolt then unhook the cable.
 
ALMOST STOCK said:
How is it that my reply to cjman15 is ahead of his question :bang: :bang: since I ANSWERED HIS QUESTION after he posted it?

WOW That's question within a question?

StangNet we have a problem!!! :shrug:
Not sure but that was pretty cool. I wondered what you were talking about and didnt know until I scrolled down.:p

That big bunch of wires that run on the firewall, do I just take it off its clips and put it under the "lip" of the firewall?? If so, thats easy.:nice:

Thanks again for all your help.

Dave
 
That big bunch of wires that run on the firewall, do I just take it off its clips and put it under the "lip" of the firewall?? If so, thats easy.

It's just that easy!

What I did (not to say it’s right) was to remove the old plastic shielding on the main harness that ran on top of the firewall pinch weld and rewrapped the harness with black electrical tape.
The old plastic shielding with the wires inside measured about 1-1/4 “, but when I rewrapped the same harness with black electrical tape the size decreased to 7/8” and the black tape was stiff enough to hold the wire tight to the bottom of pinch weld.
 
I just cleaned mine up a little by removing un needed wires and threw some electrical tape on it. I also re-used the clips that hold the harness to the firewall...drilled a couple holes for them(if you do this be careful as to whats on the other side!). Also forgot Dave, on the last car i did i extended the map wires to relocate the sensor too. Didn't feel like moving it or the vac. tree this time.

Almost Stock(i mean Almost Sick! ;) )...i've seen your work before and every time it looks even more amazing....SICK! :nice:
 
NoSlo90
I think we both know the whole thing about hiding wires is there is no exact way to hide them, or I don’t think there is.
I'm a firm believer in look how others have hid there wires and use that only as a reference to do yours.
I don’t think any 2 people have run there wires the same. Just like you and me we’ve both done it twice and neither of us has done it exactly the same either time.


Thanks for the complement!
Almost Stock(i mean Almost Sick! )... :rolleyes: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: