Harmonic Balancer issue?

[TrickFlowd]

I was recently having problems with my car and getting it to run right. Well I figured out the problem. The car was popping and caughing at WOT. The problem was timing. I set the timing using a light to 18* advanced. The car popped and caughed. The car ran like ish and had an extreme loss of power. Smelled like gas horribly. I tightened down the dizzy because I thought it was something else. I did take out the spout connector each time.

So I went to the "old motorhead method." Started the car and turned the dizzy clockwise without the gun and slowly revving on the car until the popping, caughing went away. Once again I did take out the spout connector. The car runs like a raped ape now!

Is this a harmonic balancer issue? It does not make any noise at all and looks to be in good shape. I'm just wondering why the car won't run at 18* degrees with a timing light, but if I turn it more (advance it more) the car runs perfect. I don't think it would run good at anything more than 18*. The car does not ping at all either. It runs PERFECT! What do you guys think?

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

why would you set your timing to 18 degrees

 

[Fast63]

it sounds to me like your pointer is off and you could change that. It shoudl ping and such over 18 degrees

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

I agree, 18° is quite a bit of timing. There comes a point where too much timing advance is a bad thing with detonation, especially if you aren't running a high enough octane. When the issue went away, what was the final base timing? Stock is 10° and the usual advance is anywhere from 14°-16° base.

 

[TrickFlowd]

Why would I set my timing at 18 degrees? Cuz the car won't run right with anything less.

(Anything less than 18 degrees, can barely get over 1/2 throttle in any gear without popping and caughing, Extremely loss of power!)

(Set at 18 degrees, the car breaks loose in 3rd.)

My guess is the pointer is off. Several guys here on the board suggested 14-18* . A buddy of mine has the same mods as me, and he has been running 18* for the past year with no problems. There is no pinging whatsoever!!! I run 93 octane all the time with 39 psi fuel pressure.

I'm not sure what the base timing was when the car ran right, like I said, using the gun, and setting the motor to 18* or anything less, the car would pop and break up at WOT. I turned the dizzy alittle more by hand (not using the gun or paying attention to the balancer) and the popping went away.

Do I put the motor to top dead center and then line up the balancer pointer to the thick goove on the balancer? This will calibrate the pointer?

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

No, bring no. 1 to tdc and line up pointer with the 0 on the balancer and set your timing at 12 degrees

 

[TrickFlowd]

Why 12 degrees? I know for a fact the car won't run at 12 degrees.

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

Set it at 20 I don't have a dime in it, but there is no reason for a 300 horse TW kit car to have 18 degrees of timing in it. how do you know it wont your balancer isn't even set right you were gonna use the groove for tdc are you sure your not out a tooth on your dist.

 

[TrickFlowd]

Cuz I set the timing at 12*, 14*, 16*, and 18* and the car did not run any different at either using the gun. I threw the gun on the bench and turned it by hand until the car started running right and thats where I tightened the dizzy bolt and put the spout connector back in.

I just bought the car a few weeks ago and am trying to work the bugs out of it. The dizzy could be a tooth out, I have no idea. I'm scared to mess with it because it finally runs right after about 2 weeks of trying to figure the problem out. I've checked every sensor with a voltmeter and checked everything down to each plug. I wasn't going to set the groove to tdc, I ASKED if that was how I am suppose to do it. The timing isn't based on the horsepower of the car anyways, its based on the lift of cam / amount of fuel your running. Seeing how my cam is somewhat of a decent lift, the car wasn't getting enough timing to run right.

What is the proper way to set the distributor and balancer?

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

K then you have another problem somewhere I'm just tryin to help. You got to start at the ground floor get your no.1 to tdc and start from there first off, then check your balancer to see where its at in accordance with the pointer. If your at tdc and your pointer in on the 0 on the balancer pop your dis. cap and see how your rotor lines up with your #1 cylinder plug wire it should be right in the middle. If it is not then you need to move the dist. to do so. Then reset your timing to 18 degrees with the spout out and plug back in.

 

[TrickFlowd]

Sounds good! I know your just trying to help. I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible with this issue.

Whats the easiest way to set #1 to TDC? Obviously u can't see the piston very well, and a dial indictor is impossible. I've seen people take a small shaft or screwdriver and put it in the cylinder hole and turn the motor over by hand until the piston reaches its highest peak. Any other safer ways?

 

[Fast63]

One of the best ways to do it is to take the balancer off and make the keyway in the crank point straight up. That is when the #1 cylinder is at TDC. I know it is fairly crude still, but that's the best way to do it without taking the timing cover off. If you are willing to do that, you need to line up the keyway on the crank pointing straight up and the dot on cam gear pointing straight down toward the keyway. That will give you TDC on #1, but then you have to figure out if that is on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke by looking at the valve movements. Turn the engine over by hand until the intake valve is closing, once it closes, keep turning until you get back to TDC, then you are on the compression stroke where you set the timing.

When you find TDC the first time, make a new mark as "0" on your balancer.

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

you can remove your #1 plug and roll motor over with a finger over the plug hole when it gets near tdc you will hear the air begin to push your finger out away from the hole this is your compression stroke. Yes a screwdriver is crude but works fine just avoid getting it pinched and watch it at its highest point stop. now check your marks out on dampner you should be on 0 or real close to it if you are on zero remove your cap and check #1 mark there too. A breaker bar on dampner is the easiest way to rotate safely and remove your battery wires first.

 

[TrickFlowd]

Cool. Thanks Punisher! I will check into this on Saturday.