Have a few quirks with the '88, need some help.

88 Fox GT · May 1, 2005

First off, my door locks do not work. The electric solenoids don't lock them and you can't manually lock them either way. Can't push the knob down and can't lock them with the key. Is it common for both lock solenoids in the doors to lock up? This is what it is acting like.

My next problem is with the CD player I installed. It doesn't fit perfectly snug. Is there a special kit I need to make it snug, or could I probably fab something easily?

The fuel gauge is a little whack. It either reads way past full or when it starts to get very low, it reads 1/8th tank or less and the fuel light comes on. What could this be? Bad sending unit?

Stance. The car sits like a 4x4 up front and squats in the back. It's not horrible, but pretty noticeable. What's up with this? Is it how they are, stock, or do I have some worn out shocks or something in the rear?

Thanks for any help provided. I'm sure I will have more questions later.

70lightning · May 1, 2005

Speed_Demon1965 said:
First off, my door locks do not work. The electric solenoids don't lock them and you can't manually lock them either way. Can't push the knob down and can't lock them with the key. Is it common for both lock solenoids in the doors to lock up? This is what it is acting like.

My next problem is with the CD player I installed. It doesn't fit perfectly snug. Is there a special kit I need to make it snug, or could I probably fab something easily?

The fuel gauge is a little whack. It either reads way past full or when it starts to get very low, it reads 1/8th tank or less and the fuel light comes on. What could this be? Bad sending unit?

Stance. The car sits like a 4x4 up front and squats in the back. It's not horrible, but pretty noticeable. What's up with this? Is it how they are, stock, or do I have some worn out shocks or something in the rear?

Thanks for any help provided. I'm sure I will have more questions later.

It is possible for the solenoids to crap out, but I would check all my wires first and see if I could trace the problem before riping it apart.
CD players you just have to try and figure it out usally zip tying the wires togehter help in getting them to fit better.
Fuel guage, again you may get lucky with the wiring it may just need a good ground.
And yes I have seen 5.0s squat in the back, but i'm sure new shocks would be a good place to start.

HISSIN50 · May 1, 2005

Speed_Demon1965 said:
First off, my door locks do not work. The electric solenoids don't lock them and you can't manually lock them either way. Can't push the knob down and can't lock them with the key. Is it common for both lock solenoids in the doors to lock up? This is what it is acting like.

My next problem is with the CD player I installed. It doesn't fit perfectly snug. Is there a special kit I need to make it snug, or could I probably fab something easily?

The fuel gauge is a little whack. It either reads way past full or when it starts to get very low, it reads 1/8th tank or less and the fuel light comes on. What could this be? Bad sending unit?

Stance. The car sits like a 4x4 up front and squats in the back. It's not horrible, but pretty noticeable. What's up with this? Is it how they are, stock, or do I have some worn out shocks or something in the rear?

Thanks for any help provided. I'm sure I will have more questions later.

ill take a stab.
door locks: did this recently happen all at once? it does sound like frozen actuators. you can unhook the linkage, put a test light on the actuator and see what happens (with being able to manually lock it, and with having power to the locks). if you need new ones, i recommend the Jrichker retrofit. works like a charm.

did you use an install kit with the deck? i have a little bit of a time getting all the connectors stashed so the deck can recess all the way (with a proper face plate dealie).

you could have a bad sending unit or that it is out of calibration (though since it goes to extremes, i doubt the latter). you can ohm the wire out and see what it is doing. if cheap, replacement is easier.

i dont think the car should have a stance like that some folks do it for handling but it looks like poo. a once over should show what is up - might just need some fresh springs and dampers of your choice.

sorry to not have more specific help, but i am not real sure exactly what a couple of the problems are. good luck.

88 Fox GT · May 1, 2005

Yes, I did use a proper wiring harness with the CD player, so no splicing was involved.

The door locks didn't work on the car since I bought it. Thanks for all the info, I got some work to do on it tomorrow.

HISSIN50 · May 1, 2005

Speed_Demon1965 said:
Yes, I did use a proper wiring harness with the CD player, so no splicing was involved.

cool. I am not sure if it was directed at me, but i figured you did not splice wires - when i mentioned install kit, i was trying to figure out what kind of plastic facade you were using to house the radio (since the radio hole is like 2 DIN+). the higher the radio's position, the better the chance of getting it to slide all the way back in there (i knew what you meant - like i said, mine is real real tight sliding back too). 70's idea with zip ties is good. i also stash as many connectors as i can down in the nooks before i slide the deck back in.

on one side, it should take about 15 mins to remove the door panel and check out the wiring for the locks and the actuators themselves (i bet both are just frozen since they dont work manually).

good luck with it!

88 Fox GT · May 1, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
on one side, it should take about 15 mins to remove the door panel and check out the wiring for the locks and the actuators themselves (i bet both are just frozen since they dont work manually).

good luck with it!

Yes, I looked at the drivers side door and all wires (including the ground) were all hooked up. They are probably frozen up.

04sleeper · May 1, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
if you need new ones, i recommend the Jrichker retrofit. works like a charm.

I would recommend the retrofit kits as well.

I have used these kinds for years and they work great!

88 Fox GT · May 8, 2005

Ok, I have searched about door lock actuators and everyone says they are easy to remove. Well, the other day, I took a try and could not figure out how they hell they come out. I can't get the "rod" out of the hole. Is it riveted in, is there some sort of clip, or is the rod bent upwards or something. Any suggestions on how I go about removing the rod? I just want this to be able to manually lock the doors until I get around to buying and replacing the actuators.

HISSIN50 · May 8, 2005

with the actuator out of its perch (so it is dangling by the spiraled rod that goes to the lock mechanism), you have to turn and maneuver the actuator body to get it out of the lock (the end of the spiral rod is kind of hooked, to keep it from coming loose).

88stangnut · May 9, 2005

I have a 88 LX. Do my a favor and go outsdie and shack the back of the car, tell me if u hear clunking. If so its like mine, the unit the measures the gas fell into the tank, its a stupid little plastic piece of ****. My car reads full till its got less than a gallon of gas then it will fall haha, that means u better get gas soon. Its something I haveent fixed in like 3-4yrs so its not a problem, u get used to it

88 Fox GT · May 10, 2005

Temperature gauge. I don't know about this one. The wire is connected to the sending unit on the intake, and I took the gauge cluster out and the connector was hooked onto it in the back. The needle isn't stuck either. I don't know why it won't work. I doubt the sending unit went bad, because it's just too simple to "go out". I suppose it could be it, but it's doubtful. How do I go about checking what might be wrong?

HISSIN50 · May 11, 2005

Speed_Demon1965 said:
Temperature gauge. I don't know about this one. The wire is connected to the sending unit on the intake, and I took the gauge cluster out and the connector was hooked onto it in the back. The needle isn't stuck either. I don't know why it won't work. I doubt the sending unit went bad, because it's just too simple to "go out". I suppose it could be it, but it's doubtful. How do I go about checking what might be wrong?

what i do (shadetree). ground the sender wire where it attaches to the sender in the lower intake. with the key on, the gauge should go from dead to pegged hot. that tells you the wire is intact and the gauge works to a degree (pun intended). new sender is 4 bucks at a parts store - that is one time i will just toss money at it.

good luck.

jrichker · May 11, 2005

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $4. Fix one side for $17, do both sides for only $23. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

88 Fox GT · May 12, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
what i do (shadetree). ground the sender wire where it attaches to the sender in the lower intake. with the key on, the gauge should go from dead to pegged hot. that tells you the wire is intact and the gauge works to a degree (pun intended). new sender is 4 bucks at a parts store - that is one time i will just toss money at it.

good luck.

I'll give that a try. Thanks.

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