Head Gasket Replacement

[nero6]

I have found quite a few posts on head gasket replacement but not exactly what I am looking for. Does anyone have any step, by step, by step instructions on how to replace them? I know the standard Haynes books but I find they miss a few steps that may be common knowledge to most but not to someone doing it for the first time. Also, how hard is it? I do work on my car but most of it somewhat basic stuff, oil changes, brake work, some electrical diagnostic work but no real major engine work.

My coolant has been disappearing with no external leaks. When I drain my oil it looks fine except at the very end is almost milky white. I have also sent my oil off to have it analyzed just to make sure it is coolant in the oil but given that I am loosing coolant with no external leaks I am pretty sure some coolant is making its way into the oil.

 

[wv109323]

Head Gaskets

I would make sure that I had antifreeze in my oil before I started on the head gaskets.
I had the same thing going on with a 1983 4-cyl.
The problem was the radiator cap. The rubber seal of the cap was split and thus would not built up pressure. The leak allowed antifreeze/water to evaporate. Sometimes enough antifreeze would get on the core support but never enough to drip on the ground.
My tip was that I could smell the antifreeze when I ran errands where multiple stops were made. My leakage rate was about 1 quart per month.

 

[nero6]

I would make sure that I had antifreeze in my oil before I started on the head gaskets.
I had the same thing going on with a 1983 4-cyl.
The problem was the radiator cap. The rubber seal of the cap was split and thus would not built up pressure. The leak allowed antifreeze/water to evaporate. Sometimes enough antifreeze would get on the core support but never enough to drip on the ground.
My tip was that I could smell the antifreeze when I ran errands where multiple stops were made. My leakage rate was about 1 quart per month.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I completly agree about confirming that there is actually antifreeze in the oil before starting but based on the symptoms so far I a pretty confident it is an internal leak and just want an idea of what will be involved. Hopefully be able to confirm 100% in a few weeks when I get my tests back. I just replaced the rad cap last year as it was leaking before, you could actually hear it hissing. I go though about 3/4 of a quart over 3500km (2200 miles).

 

[jrichker]

Use a regular compression test or a blow down compression test to spot combustion chamber leaks into the water jacket. You could have a leak at the intake manifold or EGR spacer just as easily as a head gasket. The compression test will help determine if the head gaskets are leaking. Under high boost pressure, some heads will leak around the head gaskets. In that case, the cranking compression test will usually pass OK. Since you didn't say anything about a turbo or supercharger, I would not associate this problem with your current situation.

How to do a compression test:
Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark
plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading.
Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent.
If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would
be a good tool to add to your collection.

With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the
throttle wide open, crank the engine until it the gage reading stops
increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good &
what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from
140-170 psi. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder
and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be
no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down
leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that
have more than 10% difference.

See the link to my site for details on how to build your own blow
down type compression tester.

 

[nero6]

Use a regular compression test or a blow down compression test to spot combustion chamber leaks into the water jacket. You could have a leak at the intake manifold or EGR spacer just as easily as a head gasket. The compression test will help determine if the head gaskets are leaking. Under high boost pressure, some heads will leak around the head gaskets. In that case, the cranking compression test will usually pass OK. Since you didn't say anything about a turbo or supercharger, I would not associate this problem with your current situation.

How to do a compression test:
Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark
plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading.
Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent.
If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would
be a good tool to add to your collection.

With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the
throttle wide open, crank the engine until it the gage reading stops
increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good &
what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from
140-170 psi. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder
and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be
no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down
leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that
have more than 10% difference.

See the link to my site for details on how to build your own blow
down type compression tester.

Thanks, I wish I could do a compression test. The other issue I have is my plugs are seized. I can only get the #1 cylinder plug out. Right now I do not want to risk stripping the plug threads. Any quick way to check to see if it is the EGR spacer?