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Header Install Woes

  • Thread starter Thread starter DRock9
  • Start date Start date Dec 11, 2006
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#1
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #1
I am 90% done with installing my BBK shorties but I have run into a problem, I can't seem to find the other half of a vaccum line plug. The plug I am looking for is on the passenger side, has 5 "holes", one goes into the throttle body and one goes into a valve that is connected to the breather hose(coming off of the h-pipe.) I am pretty sure it is my smog system, don't know if it is the PCV valve or not, but I can't seem to find it anywhere and I was wondering if anyone knows where the lines run to so I can follow them hopefully to the plug.

And also, the hose that runs to the back of the throttle body on this plug snapped, is it possible to run my car without it? And the hose diagonal from that one seems to be missing too but I cant tell if there was one there before.
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#2
  • Dec 11, 2006
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http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2350/enginebay4ci5.jpg

Theres a picture for reference. I drew the red line to show the vac line that was busted. Im going back out to look for it again.
 

mykscholze

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Aug 13, 2003
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Dec 11, 2006
#3
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #3
There should be 4 lines.

One is Manifold vacuum that comes from the vac tree on the manifold.

The short line is for the EGR valve from the EGR Soleniod.

The 2 longer lines are for the TAD and TAB. Both of these lines control the valves on the smog plumbing. You will need to have them hooked up especially if you have cats on your car. If there is no vacuum to control the opening of the valve on the air pump then you can burn up the cats.

You can replace these lines with generic vacuum lines. At least that is what the ford Dealer calls for now, I tried to get the replacement for that but I guess they don't make it any more.
 

JChalfan

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Nov 27, 2002
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Dec 11, 2006
#4
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #4
When those hard lines snap (and they always do), I usually repair them by slipping a small peice of rubber vacuum line over the broken area. Works great. Just take the broken line down to the parts store and find the right size hose.

I seem to remember that on that 5-hole connector you're talking about, one of the corner ones is not used.

Jeff
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#5
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #5
Ok well I think the line that broke was the EGR valve line, can the car run without that? And do you know where the other half of the plug usually is on the car? I can't find it, its the last thing I need to do before I can start her up.

EDIT: Thanks a lot for that tip, ill go look for some rubber hose!

EDIT2: I just slipped fomr R/C Car fuel line hose over both ends and it fit on amazingly, i'm hoping it can stand up to the heat.
 

JChalfan

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Dec 11, 2006
#6
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #6
Here's a link to a page with lots of usefull vacuum and wiring diagrams:

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

The vacuum diagram on there is for a '88 non MAF car I beleive. There should be one vacuum line that's different on that diagram than on a newer car. Jrichker mentions it in this post:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=671969&highlight=vacuum+diagram

I don't remember exactly where the other end of that line goes. Unfortunately I don't have time to go check my car and take a picture right now, but if you haven't found an answer, I might be able to later.

Yes you can run the car with the EGR vacuum line disconnected, but I beleive it causes it to run a little lean? You would of course have to plug the other end of the line or you would have a vacuum leak.

Jeff
 

mykscholze

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Dec 11, 2006
#7
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #7
The EGR system also helps cool combustion chamber temps... Without that you could have some drivability issues and run the risk of detonation.
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#8
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #8
Thanks a lot for your help. I'm going to go out and look for it some more I guess, I'm kinda crunched on time as I need to have the car running within 20 minutes.
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#9
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #9
Im gonna write up a thread about putting in exhaust parts, just to warn everyone that doesnt know how much of a bitch it is to work on a car with 16 years of rust.

So does anyone know where I might find the other half to this plug? This is the last thing I need to get before I can start it.
 

JChalfan

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Bellevue, WA
Dec 11, 2006
#10
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #10
DRock9 said:
Im gonna write up a thread about putting in exhaust parts, just to warn everyone that doesnt know how much of a bitch it is to work on a car with 16 years of rust.

So does anyone know where I might find the other half to this plug? This is the last thing I need to get before I can start it.
Click to expand...

I may not be exactly clear what you mean by "find the other half of this plug", but here's a picture of where the vacuum line from the EGR valve goes on my car. It's the one circled in red.

Jeff
 

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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#11
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #11
Its the part right below the circle, its the other half of the plug that the 4 vac lines go into.

http://img282.imageshack.us/img282/3540/egrlineom6.jpg

I made it clearer there.
 

mykscholze

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Dec 11, 2006
#12
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #12
That should come off of 3 solenoids mounted to the rear of the passenger side strut tower.
 
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DRock9

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#13
  • Dec 11, 2006
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Thanks, ill go look for that. I've looked at it several times before but I couldn't figure out if it went there, ill go look again then.
 
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DRock9

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#14
  • Dec 11, 2006
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Ok so I found that and plugged it in, it was stuck behind one of the solenoids, but when I started it up it had a huge surging idle which of course if from the snapped vacuum line I am assuming. But after letting it run and revving it, smoke came out from under the hood, and when I shut it off I went to check and it seemed to be coming out from under/around the headers.

I am pretty sure that the vacuum leak is because the fuel line tubing is getting pinched due to the vacuum so I am going to go out and cut a much shorter piece and attach the two back together. I have no idea what the smoking problem could be though, my only guess is that I didn't tighten the headers enough. I don't have a torque wrench, nor do I know the specs they are to be torqued to, but i tightened them down as much as I could with an open-end wrench.

Was I supposed to tighten them as much as I could then loosed them back up or what? I have no idea where I went wrong.

Thanks for all the help though!
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#15
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #15
I fixed the vacuum leak with the method i stated above, so now it runs fine except for the fact that there is a nasty burning smell and some smoke from under the hood. Any ideas?
 

mykscholze

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Dec 11, 2006
#16
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #16
The only thing I can think of is maybe something is making contact with the headers.
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#17
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #17
Thanks a lot for all your help. I am hoping I can get someone to confirm, but the BBK unequal chromed shorties had two gaskests that came with the kit. Both of which had no indication as to which side went to the motor/header or front/rear correct?
 

mykscholze

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Dec 11, 2006
#18
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #18
I don't think it matters actually, but the gaskets I got with my BBK's were junk... I ended up using stock gaskets for this.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
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Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Dec 11, 2006
#19
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #19
DRock9 said:
I fixed the vacuum leak with the method i stated above, so now it runs fine except for the fact that there is a nasty burning smell and some smoke from under the hood. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Probably just leftover oil from your hands, etc. It should all burn off within 15 minutes of idling.
 
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DRock9

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#20
  • Dec 11, 2006
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Thanks a lot, ill report in tomorrow with how it went!
 
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