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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Header Leak??

  • Thread starter Thread starter smkshw
  • Start date Start date Mar 21, 2014
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smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
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Mar 25, 2014
#21
  • Mar 25, 2014
  • #21
Gearbanger 101 said:
Proably not. The BBK's are a pretty solid header for the money. Are yours ceramic coated, or no?
Click to expand...

ceramic....
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
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Mar 25, 2014
#22
  • Mar 25, 2014
  • #22
smkshw said:
ceramic....
Click to expand...

Then I doubt they were overheated and warped the flange. Most coatings are good for at least 1,200F. If they got hot enough to warp the flange, the coating would have been burned and turned chalk white nearest it and for the first few inches or so down the primary tubes. This is usually result of a timing issue....generally and engine running with the timing too far retarded.
 

smkshw

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#23
  • Mar 25, 2014
  • #23
it did it right from first start...so wouldnt be from being to hot anyway....im going to try the soak method first and go from there....
 

7upstang91

10 Year Member
May 30, 2008
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Mar 26, 2014
#24
  • Mar 26, 2014
  • #24
Gearbanger 101 said:
The problem in correcting it via this method, lies in the thickness of the flange. Having it plained for trueness might cure the issue initially, but you've now got replaced a flage that was previously very susceptible to warpage, with one that's even more susceptible. Since the metal is thin and there are no dowels to keep it in place, the header flange tends to move around with each heating and cooling cycle, which adds to the problem.

Your best defence against dealing with warpage is even torque across the entire flange.

The BBK's have a fairly thick flange, so my guess is that they're still probably pretty straight. The combination of a good gasket, high temp copper silicone and even torque should sort it out. I'd save any modifications to the flange as a last resort.
Click to expand...
Every understandable, how ever that was my last resort with the BBK's on my mustang. First, I replaced the gasket with one of the Fel-Pro deals (paper), two months later the header gasket blew. The second time, I spent the money and bought the metal gasket, used the Copper spray and torqued the heads from the inside out with my torque wrench. From that point on, the gasket blew twice more using the method you previously stated. At this point in life I could replaced a header gasket in an hour. Needless to say, have the flange trued, paid the money for a proper gasket along with copper spray and torquing from the inside to out, I've yet to have a problem.

Just speaking from personal experience, replacing the header gaskets four times is a pain. I would hate to have someone go down the same path I did. Like you stated, the BBK's are thick enough at the flange.

If I were the OP I would try one time with the sequence Gearbanger 101 has stated. If that fails I would have the flange trued.
 

Gearbanger 101

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#25
  • Mar 26, 2014
  • #25
I used the high heat copper silicone in a tube, not the spray. I spread it around the ports with my finger to create the high spots specifically around them not all over the surface of the gasket.

 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
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Mar 26, 2014
#26
  • Mar 26, 2014
  • #26
one more thing, before you reinstall the header, make sure the gasket surfaces are as clean as possible. this is the stuff i like to use;

 

smkshw

5 Year Member
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#27
  • Mar 26, 2014
  • #27
i will do that thank you...hope it works this time!
 
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