Headers install tips and instructions, please.

1961Mustang · Mar 30, 2012

Well, as some of you know, I decided to tackle installing the custom X-pipe myself, and it was going ok until I snapped a stud on the drivers side manifold. @&$?! Luckily I was able to convince my wife to order a set of stainless ceramic coated shorty headers from Ford Racing at Late Model Resto. So, before I f&$k this up too, is anyone interested in giving me some instructions or tips? Any help will be appreciated! Or, if you live in Michigan and want to earn some money installing headers, email me...seriously, this stuff is kicking my a@@ and wallet.

jsw81 · Mar 30, 2012

are these equal or unequal length headers?

1961Mustang · Mar 30, 2012

Unequal. They are these: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...Stainless-Steel-Shorty-Headers-Ceramic-Coated

jsw81 · Mar 30, 2012

It's pretty straight forward to install unequals. There is plenty of clearance to install them without trouble. When I did mine, I hand tightened the bolts first, then torqued them down. I used a wrench on the rear header bolts I think, if I remember correctly. There wasn't enough room for the socket to fit due to the header tube being in the way. That was with BBK's though; not sure if the FRP ones are different.

1961Mustang · Mar 30, 2012

Looks to me the unequal length headers are nearly identical. The drivers side looks much easier than the passenger side due tote offset for the steering system. Interestingly, although my car has been stored every winter, it still had massive corrosion on the header bolts going into the factory h-pipe/cat system. I am HOPING the same is not true for the header bolts. I REALLY don't want to end up towing this hulk to an exhaust shop to back out snapped-off block header bolts!

jsw81 · Mar 30, 2012

1961Mustang said:
Looks to me the unequal length headers are nearly identical. The drivers side looks much easier than the passenger side due tote offset for the steering system. Interestingly, although my car has been stored every winter, it still had massive corrosion on the header bolts going into the factory h-pipe/cat system. I am HOPING the same is not true for the header bolts. I REALLY don't want to end up towing this hulk to an exhaust shop to back out snapped-off block header bolts!

PB blaster works great on those pesky stuck bolts

1961Mustang · Mar 30, 2012

Lol im kinda leery on the PB since that seems to be what weakened the stud on the manifold enough to cause me to be able to just snap it off...I am worried about spraying that stuff on the bolts into the block yikes!

wythors · Mar 30, 2012

PB Blaster would have no effect on the actual metal. If the stud broke, it was either due to being corroded to the point of weakness, or the nuts weren't broken free from the stud.

1961Mustang · Mar 30, 2012

The drivers side looks much easier than the passenger side due tote offset for the steering system. Interestingly, although my car has been stored every winter, it still had massive corrosion on the header bolts going into the factory h-pipe/cat system. I am HOPING the same is not true for the header bolts. I REALLY don't want to end up towing this hulk to an exhaust shop to back out snapped-off block header bolts!

foxbodymike87 · Mar 30, 2012

i installed my shortys when my engine was out so it was obviously super easy. Snugged them up with a 3/8 rachet and called it good. And PB blaster is amazing, much better than WD

87-t-top-gt · Mar 30, 2012

I just installed those headers on my frpp block. Also uninstalled the old manifolds from old block because I was curious...I was doing the engine swap so I was constantly around the engine so I just sprayed the crap out of the manifolds with pb blaster once a day for a week. May seem like overkill but when it came time every bolt broke loose and came right off like they had just been installed a year ago(87 gt orig everything at the time).

As far as the install, my engine was out of car already so it took 5 days ...because like an idiot I broke the first dipstick and had to wait on another from LMR . I can't imagine how much a PITA that would be with it in the car. Fitment may be a slight issue..my driver's side wass incredibly close to my steering shaft for mock engine install. I am going manual steering with MM steering shaft so should have a bit more than before.

1961Mustang · Mar 31, 2012

So, the PB won't eat the metal? See, I was soaking the collector bolts every night for about 4 days, and each night I would try to loosen a bolt. None would budge, and my socket was straining on them with the bolts not moving AT ALL. Then on the 5th day I tried, it started turning a tiny bit, and when I tried turning it again, POP and it broke. You can understand my worries about not wanting a header bolt snapped off in the block.

79'293stang · Mar 31, 2012

The header bolts will not be a problem. I have torched many a stud off the manifold to h pipe, but never had one not come loose out of the head. The threads are safe inside of the head and not exposed to kickup from the road like the studs you broke. I can understand your worry, but if will be ok.

87-t-top-gt · Mar 31, 2012

I snapped a collecter bolt on each side but every single manifold to head bolt was like spreading butter. If you've been spraying them daily then you shouldnt have anything to worry about. Again I'm sure it was overkill to do it for a week but it worked. I'm sure 1-2 times would be just as good

1961Mustang · Mar 31, 2012

Ok cool. Thanks. Now for the hard question: obviously any idiot can unbolt the drivers side header, but that passenger side...wow. Looks like medusa down there. Mines a 91, (see avatar pic), and it has non-operational A/C, but it has lines/pipes right next to the passenger headers that look like they go to a compressor or something, and then they connect to something that is run by the serpentine belt. I know the A/C is on the other side up top, so what is this thing? (you can tell I'm no mechanic, sigh) and how the @&$! do you get to those passenger side bolts???

jsw81 · Mar 31, 2012

I believe you are referring to the evaporator. The first time I did headers I just worked around them. It's just a matter of finding the right angle for things to go in place. The second time I did headers, I had removed the ac completely since it did not work, so it was a piece of cake with those lines gone.

wythors · Mar 31, 2012

That's the air pump (smog pump). Once you get the air intake junk out of the way you can remove most of it by loosening the clamps on the two hoses that are stacked on top of each other and the one from the back of the air pump. Just pay attention to where the couple of vacuum lines attach. Once that's out of the way, it's as wide open as the other side.

Gearbanger 101 · Mar 31, 2012

The best advice I can give you when you install the new headers is to torque them in stages and work from the center, outwards. If you tighten from one end to the other, you've got a good chance of developing a leak. As far as shorties go, the Ford Racing are amongst some of the best, but coating the gaskets in copper based, high heat silicone to compensate for any imperfection wouldn't hurt either.

87-t-top-gt · Apr 1, 2012

Gearbanger 101 said:
The best advice I can give you when you install the new headers is to torque them in stages and work from the center, outwards. If you tighten from one end to the other, you've got a good chance of developing a leak. As far as shorties go, the Ford Racing are amongst some of the best, but coating the gaskets in copper based, high heat silicone to compensate for any imperfection wouldn't hurt either.

+1 Here, it should be a min of 3 stages. Believe 6 ft lb , 12 ft lb , 18 ft lb if I remember correctly? Work from inside out!

1961Mustang · Apr 1, 2012

Hmm. How much does a metered torque wrench cost these days?

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